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Low oil pressure, should I be worried?
Topic Started: Thu Feb 8, 2007 12:55 pm (987 Views)
chrismatheou
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Hello guys, my engine was fully reconditioned in may last year as the crankshaft bearings just disintegrated on the motorway....and then going on to snap a piston rod which then siezed the engine after I switched it off...FUN :) since reconditioning it I have now covered around 10,000 odd miles in the car.

Ever since I got the car before I got the engine done it used to idle at least 300 rpm too high.

Anyway, the car went in for an MOT last week and I spent an absolute fortune on it and fixed many niggles as well that I had with the car. The Air Slide Valve (Idle Control Valve) was on of the things replaced.

The idle is now beautiful and down to silent and smooth 700rpm all day long, rising ever so slightly when out of gear.

But now the idle is where it should be I am now in a postition to see what the Oil Pressure really is at the proper idle the car is suposed to have and the guage most often than not only showing me just under 1.5 bar when fully warmed up at around 90C.

Im pretty sure this isnt a dangerous level and I think im suposed to be seeing a pressure of at least just over 2 on 700 rpm idle at that temperature.

Im just a little unhappy that my engines pressure is like this when its been FULLY done over at a huge expense :( and I would like abit of professional reassurance that nothings going to happen to it again.... and maybe tell me whats wrong making the pressures sitting so low and what I can do to resolve this.

Thank you all. :D

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Studio-City
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first things first...who rebuilt the engine?
what oil have you been using in it since the build and what condition is your oil pump in?
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Samnav2
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The handbook states that the minimum oil pressure at tick-over and hot should not be below 0.3 bar and that the 3 bar pressure should be achieved before 3000 rpm. The workshop manager at the local dealers told me that a perfect engine when hot reaches 3 bar at 1250rpm and that was the best test. My engine has done 85000 miles, mainly on Mobil 1, and achieves 3 bar at 1250rpm but after a motorway run in the summer the pressure at tick-over drops to 1.4 bar if I stop whilst exiting the motorway or at a service station. It goes up to 1.8 bar when the engine has cooled slightly. It has been the same for the last 10 years.
Samnav2
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190D 2.5
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As long as the guage hits '3' when you prod the accelerator, you shouldn't have much to worry about. If it stays at '1.5' or '2' when you're giving it some juice, then I'd say you have a problem. YOu don't make it clear in you msg if the '1.5' reading is at a hot idle (which would be fine) or when under acceleration.
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chrismatheou
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Heathrow Motor Services of Twickenham rebuilt the engine i found them on the Net at the time when I needed to sort the car out. They seemed like a resonable professional company with a snazy website who offered me a warranty as well with the work....however I have heard they were reported to watchdog recently and have received some negative publicity due to bad work and being quite a con.

They have now changed there compnay name as a result and I dont know what they are now called, however there site remains the same.

The site is http://www.reconditioned-engines.co.uk/

The oil in the car has been changed every 3000 miles since rebuilding it, it has always been Revolution oil 10W 40. Filters have always been from companys such as GSF and ECP.

And as for the oil pump, too be honest I havent got a slightest clue.

The car has now got around 180k on it if that helps though.

Chris
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chrismatheou
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To reconfirm the pressure details are:

1.5 bar when fully warmed up at around 90C while idle is at 700rpm.

Chris
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190D 2.5
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chrismatheou
Feb 8 2007, 12:48 PM
To reconfirm the pressure details are:

1.5 bar when fully warmed up at around 90C while idle is at 700rpm.

Chris

Still not quite sure... WHat does the guage read when you accelerate i.e take the rpm beyond 1500?
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Studio-City
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Quote:
 
The oil in the car has been changed every 3000 miles since rebuilding it, it has always been Revolution oil 10W 40. Filters have always been from companys such as GSF and ECP.


When the engine was rebuilt when did you change the oil? Was it after 3,000 miles?

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Big Ben
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If, when the engine is warm, it idles at 1.5bar and goes up to 3.0bar when you are driving there is no problem at all.

Only the cossies idle at 3.0bar.
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charl44
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I had my engine re-built last autumn by Crewe Engines, my oil pressure is just the same as yours, as long as it hits 3bar when accelerating you have no problems,
I have done 3000 miles since the re-build and had oil and filter changes at 800 and 2500 miles, on the last oil change I ask the mechanic to give the engine a look over to see if everything was as it should be ie, timing, emmisions etc and he told me it was spot on and they did a v good job with the re-build.

Ian
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Matt
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Yes my cossie is always at 3 bar no matter what :)

If your pressure doesnt rise when you accelerate then there may be a problem, maybe a worn oil pump.

Could that of been a factor leading to the initial engine failiure? <_<
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chrismatheou
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Just jumped outside again to check some details for certain now the engines hot hot :) , just got home.

Details you requested guys...

190D 2.5 - The guage does go up to 3 when accelerating up to 1500rpm.

Studio-City - The oil and filter was changed initially at 600 miles I think? If not it was definetly something very low along those lines in the first few 100's of miles.

Also before this first service for these first few miles I was told to never take the engine above 2500rpm as the head is not 'tight' enough yet....and so I did exactly as I was told :rolleyes:

Chris
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Studio-City
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Quote:
 
Just jumped outside again to check some details for certain now the engines hot hot  , just got home.

Details you requested guys...

190D 2.5 - The guage does go up to 3 when accelerating up to 1500rpm.

Studio-City - The oil and filter was changed initially at 600 miles I think? If not it was definetly something very low along those lines in the first few 100's of miles.

Also before this first service for these first few miles I was told to never take the engine above 2500rpm as the head is not 'tight' enough yet....and so I did exactly as I was told 

Chris


Hi Chris,

Sounds as if you have done everything the right way. If the gauge goes up when you accelerate, then generally that is fine. Also how old is the oil pump, has it ever been replaced?

They say it can be better to change the oil 4 times uptill 2000 miles after a full rebuild.

Has this just recently happened?

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chrismatheou
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To be honest I dont have a slightest clue whether the oil pump has ever been replaced, should I replace do you think this will fix the problem? And is this a very big job?

I really am feeling kinda upset :( that my engine was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago and the oil pressure is abit poo lol.

Its been like this ever since the rebuild. However I do have one more point to add.

I was looking at the engine last week and I noticed that along the side of the rocker cover and head there is a very slight bit of weeping oil. NOT MUCH at all but a fine line most of the way around the head, could this be the cause? Or am I talking a loada rubbish.

Regards
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Studio-City
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To be honest i would take it back to whomever rebuilt it. That should not happen at all. You have slight weeping around the rocker cover gasket. thats nothing to worry about but seriously you paid good money for them to rebuild the engine so if it were me i'd be going back regardless...

have you used the exact same brand/grade of oil since the rebuild? Or have you moved to lighter fully synthetic grade?

As for the oil pump i seem to remember thats its a straighforward enough job...

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chrismatheou
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Same brand and same viscosity all the way, they change my oil and filter every 6000 miles for a silly price in order to uphold the warranty, but I change it in the middle of this interval also at 3000 miles to keep it in tip top shape.

So you really think I may be looking at a new oil pump or do you think it may be related to the weeping rocker cover gasket?

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Studio-City
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the thing is that the oil pumps very rarely go on these cars...they either work or they dont!
but if you say its been like that since the rebuild then i would not hesitate to take it back to them...absolutely!

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chrismatheou
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So when I go back to them, what should I tell them exactly, what should I claim the oil pressure to really be.

When the car is cold from the morning the engine makes a clatter sort of sound when it starts for around 2 seconds before the oil pressure guage shoots up to 3 as it would when cold, is this sound normal?

Chris
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Matt
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Studio-City
Feb 8 2007, 07:32 PM
To be honest i would take it back to whomever rebuilt it. That should not happen at all. You have slight weeping around the rocker cover gasket. thats nothing to worry about but seriously you paid good money for them to rebuild the engine so if it were me i'd be going back regardless...

Agreed ;)
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cossie connoisseur
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For my 2 pence worth the chance of there being something wrong with the oil pump is minute. The pump turns with the engine so if the pump is brocken then the engine will run rats! It is far more likely that IF you have a problem then it will be a feed line or a bit of muck in the pick up. As said above as it is covered by warenty just take it back and complain.

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chrismatheou
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When I started the car this morning to set off, I listened carefully for that noise I was talking about earlier on.

It is a clatter/tappety kind of noise and is there for about 2-3 seconds.

Do you guys think that this is because the top end isnt getting enough oil as soon as I start it because the oil feed from the sump is clogged up or maybe because the oil pump isnt functioning correctly?

Regards
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Big Ben
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Its just the hydraulic tappets waiting for oil pressure. Did they replace them during the engine work? My old 2.0 used to do it on really cold mornings because the oil was thicker and took time to pressurize the system. Never did it in the Summer!

It can definately be caused by using the wrong viscosity oil.
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Studio-City
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Chris, without sounding harsh its not up to you to diagnose the problems because you paid them your hard earned cash so they could do the job right...believe me take it back...if they are worth their salt then they should sort it out for you...no questions asked! :)

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Studio-City
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on a full rebuild its always better to do the following though not essential:

Initial fill: 10w 40 semi syn
500 miles or sooner: 10w 40 semi syn
1000 miles : 0w 40 full syn (mobil 1)
1500 miles : 0w 40 full syn (mobil 1)
2000 miles : 0w 40 full syn (mobil 1)

then resume normal service schedule every 3000 miles :) Obviously change the filter too on each occasion.
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Big Ben
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I quite agree! You have to give them the a chance to explain and put it right (if anything is wrong). At the very least you will feel more confident about the work theyve done if they explain it to you in detail!
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Samnav2
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Its a bit expensive using Mobil 1 basically as a flushing oil. I consider your oil pressure to be perfectly normal and would not worry about it. Mine is the same and I am not worried (or should I be?) I am sure that the figures I posted earlier are correct
Samnav2
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Studio-City
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Its not that expensive at £21 for 4 litres :)
But then again you pay your money you make your choice...If your going to spend thousands on a rebuild then you may aswell protect that investment with the best...

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cossie connoisseur
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Can i just point out that i use 10W40 semi as if you go for a 0W40 fully synthetic oil if you develop any problems you can not go back to 10W40. Though its every man for themselves i personally would not use the stuff :)

Good quality oil though ;)
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Samnav2
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Hi Studio-City
I have always used Mobil 1 in mine but pay considerably more than £21 for four litres (nearly double that last time). I have considered changing to a lower priced oil because of cost but if I can get Mobil 1 for that price then there is no other choice. Can you tell me where I can purchase it at this price? Email if necessary
Samnav2
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Studio-City
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Nick, If your car has had a full rebuild, gaskets, seals, bearings, rings, valves, guides, tensioners etc then fully synth all the way...Infact i have confimed with MB and they say its fine. if however your engine has been on a diet of semy synths and you change to fully synth you will encounter leaks etc because the oil is too thin...
So for me 0w 40 Mobil 1 all the way.

Samnav, of course i can tell you where i buy it from...Your friendly costco store...:) Its the best oil to use by far...Also it protects the engine from wear more than any other grade of oil.

Of course there are better oils out there believe it or not, like Amsoil and Royal Purple. But to be honest the huge difference in price is not worth it. Stick to Mobil 1 you won't regret it...


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cossie connoisseur
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Quote:
 
Nick, If your car has had a full rebuild, gaskets, seals, bearings, rings, valves, guides, tensioners etc then fully synth all the way...Infact i have confimed with MB and they say its fine. if however your engine has been on a diet of semy synths and you change to fully synth you will encounter leaks etc because the oil is too thin...
So for me 0w 40 Mobil 1 all the way.


That is what im trying to say if you go from one to another you will develop leaks so stick with what you car is used to unless it has had a FULL rebuild then you can use what you want :)

Think were getting the same point across SC :)

I was just meaning that it is unwise to use it on any well used engine.
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