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| Engine drain plug; Where is it on a 1.8? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:45 pm (790 Views) | |
| exciton | Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:45 pm Post #1 |
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Hi All, Started to change the head gasket on a 1992 190E 1.8 Auto and have been stumped at the first hurdle! Where is the engine drain plug? There does not appear to be anything that looks like the illustration in the Haynes manual. From what I can see there appears to a a large bolt uderneath the exhaust manifold near to a core plug on cylinder 4 (the one nearest the driver). There may also be a recessed 'plug' that seems to be between cylinders 3 and 4. Both looks really hard to get to! Thanks Mark |
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| Benzsc1 | Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:53 pm Post #2 |
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Createyourownexit.com
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Hi ya if you mean the oil drain plug its on the side of the sump you will need a 13mm socket or spanner to undo it if you want to drain the coolant then I usually just undo the bottom hose and carefully ease it of the rad with a suitable impliment for catching the coolant as it pour out I can't recall if there is a drain tap at the bottom of the rad? undo the expansion tank cap before you release to hose as not to cause a vacumm and expel as much coolant as poss
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| dave_irl | Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:56 pm Post #3 |
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I couldnt find it either mate, and if it is one of those very awkward bolts I didnt go near them, You can still take the head off without it. Just drain most of the coolant by the lower rad hose, and if you want to get some more out you could take off the water pump. Ill be having the block out and stripped in another while so I will have a better idea of whats actually on the block. But your right, its nothing like haynes say. Just one of those things they throw in to keep things interesting
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| exciton | Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:57 pm Post #4 |
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Hi, Thanks for the reply. I have drained the rad but apparently there is a drain plug on the engine (according to the Haynes manual and a note form the Merc workshop manual)and the volume of coolant does not appear to be anywhere near the 8 litres or so that are meant to be in there and so I guess that there is more in there somewhere! Thanks Mark |
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| Benzsc1 | Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:04 pm Post #5 |
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as dave_irl says I would just continue to take the head off there should be no need to drain any further coolant at worst when you release the head from the block a tad may spill on to the floor at worst Good luck BTW don't forget you will need a slide hammer to remove the guide rail pins at the front of the head
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| exciton | Tue Feb 20, 2007 3:32 pm Post #6 |
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Thanks Guys, Drained as suggested using rad hoses, taken rad out and drive belt off but now the next problem is getting the fan off! - the whole lot just turns around (I think it is an electromagnetic one and not a viscous coupling. Left it soaking in WD40 whilst I have some lunch.... Thnaks again, Mark |
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| Benzsc1 | Tue Feb 20, 2007 3:44 pm Post #7 |
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You need to put the drive belt back on and use the resistance of that to crack the 13mm bolt off thats how I normally crack them a slight shock like a tap on the wrench with a suitable mallet should crack it of or a nice hex socket and a med breaker bar
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| exciton | Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:12 pm Post #8 |
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Thanks, put the belt back on, tensioned it up and gave the wrench a good whack with a hammer whilst also trying to hold the belt - worked a treat! So fan is off, cam cover is off and building up to trying to take out the cam sprocket and guide rail pins - panicing about making sure cylinder 1 is TDC. If I turn the crank so that the marker is in line with the pointer on the timing case then the marker on the cam (next to the sprocket ) almost lines up and the distributor arm is pointing at HT lead 1 - so I assume that is OK. OFf to try and make a slide hammer now! Mark |
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| dave_irl | Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:29 pm Post #9 |
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We used a claw hammer and a small block of wood but then we were working outside, at night, in the freezing cold.. Nothing ideal.Handy tip for the guide rail pins, the bolts that hold the thermostat housing are the perfect size to screw into the guide pins, and with a claw or slide hammer, you can firmly but carefully ease them out with out damaging anything. |
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| exciton | Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:07 am Post #10 |
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Thanks Dave, Tried in vain to shift those guide rail pins tonight - tried the claw hammer approach, making a rough and ready slide hammer and also a 'puller' out of a socket and bolt (managed to bend several bolts!) - I would like to meet whoever designed the pins to be pressed in and not threaded! (although I am sure that there is a legitimate engineering reason!) Will pop out tomorrow to see if I can find some proper tools down the local motor factors Time to call \it a day for now. Mark |
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| dave_irl | Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:57 am Post #11 |
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They can be a bit of a bitch alright, threaded would be much handier alright! It may be worth tryining a generous spray of WD40 to soak them over night, I know it might not work due to the tolerance of these pins being pressed in so tightly, but hey, a 30sec blast of a spray tin is worth a try Mine came out easy enough I guess but there was two of us, and be sure to get something between the hammer and block to provide extra leverage. good luck |
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| Benzsc1 | Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:05 pm Post #12 |
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Respest to ya Dave nothing like getting out there with nature and your motor I used to do that all the time then decided to get my workshop got fed up of not being able to feel my ears in winter BTW I bought my sealey Slide hammer for £15 it comes in handy for asorts of stuff
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| exciton | Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:37 am Post #13 |
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Wasted a good few hours being sent alround Cardiff looking for pullers/slde hammers but no one seems to hire them or sell them for less than £70ish (so $15 sounds like a bargain). In the end I made a 'mark 2' slide hammer of my own and the pins came flying out! - hooray!!!! Managed to unblot/undo most of the other bits and pieces, electrical connectors, vacuum ipipes etc and then found that I did not have the bihex(??) bit need to undo the head bolts - oh well, a good excuse to go and have a beer and wait for the shops to open. Unfortunately it will be a few days now until I can push on with actually trying to 'crack' the head. Quick question - how many bolts hold the head on - 10 main bolts and 3 near the time chain??? any others lurking anywhere? Thanks for all the advice and support. Mark |
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| Benzsc1 | Thu Feb 22, 2007 9:25 am Post #14 |
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Think you got it there with the amount of bolts ....oh and be very careful when taking the bolts out aroung the timing chain void if one of those drops down its a sump of job and thats if it dose'nt get stuck halfway down all I say is just concentrate when you take them out
apart from that its down to having a good old look just before you release the head and make sure you have undone every thing Regards Si |
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| dave_irl | Thu Feb 22, 2007 9:50 am Post #15 |
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Its a T16 hex bit (IIRC) to do the head bolts, just be very careful, as chances are the bit will be much tougher than the metal in the bolts, (we rounded the inside of two bolts!
) so take your time, and use an extension bar to gently apply pressure etc..Oh and undo them in the reverse sequence to tightening as shown in Haynes, I think that helps a bit too. |
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| exciton | Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:53 am Post #16 |
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Thanks guys, No doubt I will be back here soon asking some more dumb questions! Mark |
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) so take your time, and use an extension bar to gently apply pressure etc..
2:01 AM Jul 11