| Welcome to Mercedes-190.co.uk We are the Mercedes 190 owners forum, the place to be for all owners and fans of the Mercedes 190E, 190 and 190D cars. Including Cosworth (2.3 16v and 2.5 16v), EVO 1 and EVO 2 models. Modified and concourse, track cars and daily drivers, all are welcome. This free UK based forum was started back in November 2005 to serve the Mercedes 190 W201 community and now has over 9000 members from all around the world and 600,000 + posts. The members welcome you and encourage you to stay a while and have a look around. We offer you friendly chat and access to some very useful information as well as tutorials with photos and videos for many common repair and maintenance jobs. Whatever your needs there is a good chance you will be able to find what your looking for. Such as our Mercedes 190 buyers guide Sign up to gain access to all areas including for sale / classified areas and country wide meetings and events. Many forum features and sections are only available once you sign up. Join our forum at mercedes-190.co.uk! If you're already a member please log in to your account: **New members signing up** please check your junk mail for the email authorization email otherwise we cannot verify your new account. I have noticed a lot of unauthorized accounts in the system. Regards Admin |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2
| Changing Timing Chain And Valve Clearances; Some pictures | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Tue Feb 27, 2007 10:36 pm (21,878 Views) | |
| zinc | Thu Jan 3, 2008 10:36 am Post #41 |
|
Part of things
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Does anything need doing to the 8V top end as a routine and if so how often. I don't think anything has been done to mine and it's on 106K miles. |
![]() |
|
| Conrad | Thu Jan 3, 2008 10:38 am Post #42 |
|
Therapy Needed
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Chain & tensioner could probably be changed if you haven't already. They should be done every 100k. |
![]() |
|
| Desmoboy | Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:00 am Post #43 |
|
Part of things
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Is it just me ? I cannot see any pictures at all in this thread, shame as i'm half way through doing this myself. Regards keith |
![]() |
|
| MadMike | Tue Jun 24, 2008 10:44 am Post #44 |
|
Therapy Needed
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
It might be just you, i`m getting all the pictures ok.......... |
![]() |
|
| Sev | Fri Oct 3, 2008 7:27 am Post #45 |
|
I am a big Twat
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
depends on whether you consider valve stem seals as top end or not. if so, they need to be replaced every 100K miles. i say do it while changing the timing chain, since the cam is coming off anyway. |
![]() |
|
| merc190uk | Fri Oct 3, 2008 3:38 pm Post #46 |
|
The Godfather
![]()
|
checked my cams toady alignment is spot on but get this lot for readings all over the place ! as i understand it reading this post the exhaust should be between (cold) 0.25-.0.35 i got no4 = .008 and .010 no3 = .011 and .011 no2 = no reading and .008 no1 = .009 and .010 inlet is just as bad should be between (cold) .10 and.20 no4 = .007 and .006 no3 =.007 and .006 no2 = .005 and .005 no1 = .005 and .003 how did it end up so far out ? would this explain the under 2k running and the ruff tickover. your views from those in the no ? |
![]() |
|
| cossie connoisseur | Fri Oct 3, 2008 4:09 pm Post #47 |
|
there can be only one ;-)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
fook me they are well all over the place.....really time for new shims me thinks, tbh a job you can do yourself if you have the time and tools mate. ive had mine checked on the auto today by the garage and will find out what needs changing Edited by cossie connoisseur, Fri Oct 3, 2008 4:13 pm.
|
![]() |
|
| merc190uk | Fri Oct 3, 2008 5:49 pm Post #48 |
|
The Godfather
![]()
|
unless i'm reading my feeler gauge wrong lets use 0.10 as an example as this also reads on it .254mm is that the .25mm i'm after ? if so the reading are a little better exhaust .25-.35 im reading no 4 20 and 25 no3 27 and 27 no2 20 and 0 - needs looking at no1 22 and 25 inlet .10-.20 no4 17 and 15 no3 17 and 15 no2 12 and 12 no1 12 and 7 needs shimming thats if i'm now reading the feeler correctly ? am i ? its all good fun |
![]() |
|
| cossie connoisseur | Fri Oct 3, 2008 6:29 pm Post #49 |
|
there can be only one ;-)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
ive just had this conversation about the auto at the garage, for the exhaust 4 shims were around 0.42 and 3 were around 0.356 which is just above tollerance so they changed those shims. On the intake side they were all 0.11 to 0.12 which is fine. they used Rover shims which are a couple of microns bigger in diameter but because they had a box of them they never charged me for the shims. The difference is quite major, obviously as the valves were not letting the gasses escape in the correct manner. well worth £200 including a service and inspection
Edited by cossie connoisseur, Fri Oct 3, 2008 6:30 pm.
|
![]() |
|
| cossie connoisseur | Fri Oct 3, 2008 6:33 pm Post #50 |
|
there can be only one ;-)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
what you will need to do steve is remove the buckets and shims and measure them, then you will be able to work out what size shims you need. without the actual shim thinkneses and bucked thickneses its hard to work out what new shims you need. I would say you will need a full set as the majority of them need doing and they are pretty cheap! also note steve that the readings should be slightly smaller at the front of the cam than the rear due to the pull of the chain on the front of the cam....its only a small amount though! Edited by cossie connoisseur, Fri Oct 3, 2008 6:35 pm.
|
![]() |
|
| merc190uk | Fri Oct 3, 2008 6:53 pm Post #51 |
|
The Godfather
![]()
|
ok Thanks for the info how can i work out the shim for the valve i can't get the gauge under ? at this rate i will be a 16v expert will take out and measure later and goto my local peugeot dealers |
![]() |
|
| Lewis 190E 2.5 16 | Fri Oct 3, 2008 6:54 pm Post #52 |
![]()
W201
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Yeap 406 or something can be used^ |
![]() |
|
| Matt | Fri Oct 3, 2008 6:56 pm Post #53 |
![]()
Administrator - Hawk Eye
![]()
|
now the next time someone asks if its got a Ford engine in it, you can reply no, a Mercedes engine with a bit of Peugeot added
|
![]() |
|
| cossie connoisseur | Fri Oct 3, 2008 7:29 pm Post #54 |
|
there can be only one ;-)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
if one of the valves is not moving then thats not too good |
![]() |
|
| merc190uk | Fri Oct 3, 2008 7:52 pm Post #55 |
|
The Godfather
![]()
|
moves fine just no gap between it and the lobe when trying to take a measurement.
|
![]() |
|
| Cosmo2.5-16 | Sat Oct 4, 2008 1:08 am Post #56 |
![]()
Part of things
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Want you want to do is, Get your self a feeler gauge that's Metric not Imperial, Measure the clearance as you've done. Ideally you want the Exhaust side At 0.3 mm and the Intake At 0.15mm, if your reading is only out by 0.02 - 0.03mm it's well in spec, this is using 0.15 and 0.30 as the spec you want to acquire, anything out by more than 0.04 is a must in adjusting. The valve that you have no clearance on, what you'll have do is, when you have the cam out measure the shim if the thickness of the shim is 3.10, you need to replace it a Less thickness shim, say 2.95mm, put the cam back in, and measure again, at this point you should be able to get a measurement to allow you to get the right clearance. You'll get the shims at the Peugeot dealers, there from the diesels engines. The way it is your engine is'nt breathing well with those figures. On another note, That disy cap and rotor look well fecked in the pic you posted. If I was you, sort out the valve clearances and disy and rotor before you go near any part of the KE.
|
![]() |
|
| Will | Sat Oct 4, 2008 2:33 pm Post #57 |
|
Highly Addicted
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Good advice from everyone here. I'm pretty confident that the shims will make a marked improvement to your engine. Are you going to replace the timing chain whilst you're at it? I've got a brand new genuine MB 102.983 (2.3-16) timing chain sitting here in it's box doing nothing. Will |
![]() |
|
| merc190uk | Sat Oct 4, 2008 7:07 pm Post #58 |
|
The Godfather
![]()
|
chain seems very new and the tension is good too. no wear on the gears also
|
![]() |
|
| TeZREX | Thu Jan 1, 2009 9:35 pm Post #59 |
|
Newbie
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Just a few quick points from experience on Bike/car shim changes, its better to unbolt and retorque your cam with the torque wrench you will use for the job. THis ensures that when you measure the shims and refit the new ones the clearances are as you wanted. Had a bit of a problem with an old IMP engine bought new shims fitted and the clearances were all to cokc, time to start again...Also bung any holes were stray shims may end up if you drop one, i.e. plug holes, oilways camchain tuneel etc etc can save a lot of hassle in the long run... Oh and Kawasaki do more than one diameter of shim so it would be useful to know which diameter is correct (I have three kwacks in the garage....) Cheers guys TeZ Edited by TeZREX, Thu Jan 1, 2009 9:36 pm.
|
![]() |
|
| cossie connoisseur | Thu Jan 1, 2009 11:16 pm Post #60 |
|
there can be only one ;-)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
pin? |
![]() |
|
| merc190uk | Thu Jan 1, 2009 11:23 pm Post #61 |
|
The Godfather
![]()
|
it is
|
![]() |
|
| oliew | Fri Jul 10, 2009 5:12 pm Post #62 |
|
Part of things
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
quick question about the timing chain change, if i get a chain + tensioner for MB can i change it with the cam gears left in? im thinking it will be easier for me to time back up if i just feed it while rotating the cam gears on the chain, without the cams in, then i just put the cams back the same way where ive marked them on the gears ?! Ol |
![]() |
|
| johnnyt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:01 pm Post #63 |
|
Newbie
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
great post , ive just bought my first 2.5-16v and this sort of information is like gold dust to me caus it let me know what to look for and get done. |
![]() |
|
| Uk Merc Man | Mon Aug 3, 2009 3:32 pm Post #64 |
|
190e Leg-End
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
what are the valve gaps meant to be for a 2.5 16v....going to be doing this myself shortly.... |
![]() |
|
| cossie connoisseur | Mon Aug 3, 2009 7:09 pm Post #65 |
|
there can be only one ;-)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
written on the slam pannel |
![]() |
|
| Uk Merc Man | Wed Aug 5, 2009 11:48 am Post #66 |
|
190e Leg-End
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
i know its written on the slam panel, just not on mine - got the figs to hand? |
![]() |
|
| chevy | Thu Feb 3, 2011 4:38 pm Post #67 |
|
Newbie
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
If u still have your timing chain for the 2.3, how much would you want for it as I'm just about to replace head gasket, cheers , Chevy |
![]() |
|
| Will | Thu Feb 3, 2011 7:00 pm Post #68 |
|
Highly Addicted
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Hi there, That chain was sold to Crysak on this forum a couple of years back now IIRC. I know he was selling it recently, as he later sold his car and didn't fit it, so you could ask him if he's still got it available ![]() Will Edited by Will, Thu Feb 3, 2011 7:01 pm.
|
![]() |
|
| chevy | Sun Feb 6, 2011 5:10 pm Post #69 |
|
Newbie
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
ecellent reading and pics, very helpfull as ive got my head to do. Edited by chevy, Sun Feb 6, 2011 5:12 pm.
|
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Engine · Next Topic » |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2







![]](http://z2.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)








9:33 AM Jul 11