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| Rear Window Removel; SOME PICTURES | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sat May 19, 2007 10:37 pm (15,920 Views) | |
| merc190uk | Sat May 19, 2007 10:37 pm Post #1 |
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The Godfather
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It's not as hard as you would think it is to remove the rear windows from these cars. first off get in the back and remove the rear seat base (two clips), then the back (three bolts), followed by the side panels (clipped on and remove the door seal) next to the rear screen and then the parcel shelf (three clips at the front edge the just lift out). this will all take around 15mins. ![]() now its best to get your fingers around the seal from the inside and just pull it away from the roof lining towards the glass just to try and loosen it a bit, free it up. its probably the original seal ! then from standing outside you need to lever the screen up, whilst pushing the seal away from the corner from the inside. ![]() ![]() then as this lifts work your way along the rubber seal from the inside whilst pushing the glass ![]() ![]() you should end up with this ![]() from here you can gently pull back away from the car and then lift the screen out ![]() in all this took me about 40 mins because you do have to be careful and take your time and its prob easier if you have someone to assist you. fitting back in now this is where the fun starts sadly no pictures you need to fit a cord around the inside of the rubber lip starting at the bottom (the part that the cars lip would be sat in) and it needs to be very strong but not to thick with the two ends over lapping each other and coming out of the bottom of the seal and then tape them to the inside of the screen. i use anything from thin waxed rope to wire. with this in place lower the screen and rubber back onto place now it really helps to have someone place some force on the screen whilst you pull on one side of the cord from the bottom so that it pulls the rubber over the lip and back into the car. you then work you way around the seal slowly pulling it back into the car. i normally do the first lower section, say the left side until the corner is in, then start on the other cord until the right corner is in, then the left side,right side, left upper corner (very tight due to the angles) and then the right upper corner (again tight) this just leaves the top edge to pull back in which is easy by now. it pays to push the screen around within its rubbers as you fit it to try to centralise it just to ease things in. hope this helps but please remember i'm no expert at this and i'm not excepting responsibility for bust back windows its just how i've done it
Edited by merc190uk, Thu Mar 28, 2013 12:44 am.
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| CrysAk | Mon May 21, 2007 1:16 pm Post #2 |
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Moar Bass!
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thanks ^^ should be fun ^^
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| 61jason61 | Fri Jul 20, 2007 12:25 am Post #3 |
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LEGAL BY-WAY!!
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is the front screen similar? i need to replace this. |
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| Studio-City | Fri Jul 20, 2007 8:40 am Post #4 |
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Unregistered
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front screen is bonded and ideally requires a specialist |
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| NZ_190 | Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:53 am Post #5 |
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Part of things
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Whats the best sealant to use when putting it back in??? |
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| jeremy | Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:27 am Post #6 |
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Too Far Gone To Help
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Great thread Steve , well done . Should be very useful for those wanting to do some rust removal below the rear screen . Jeremy Edited by jeremy, Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:28 am.
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| NZ_190 | Sun Aug 15, 2010 12:15 pm Post #7 |
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Part of things
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@ jeremy thats exactly what I needed doing I caught it just before the point of no return. Thank god it didnt need welding like some of the rear windows I have seen on the forum. |
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| maff666 | Mon May 9, 2011 10:08 am Post #8 |
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Part of things
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Very useful thanks i thought rear screen was bonded in.Will tackle this myself now as mine needs welding its pretty rusty and holed both corners under rear screen.Looks like this is common prob i've never had a merc thats so rusty and i drive a Vito too. |
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| 6cylinder | Mon Nov 7, 2011 8:29 pm Post #9 |
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Newbie
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previous owner removed & never properly refitted rear screen. Its pushed in, but leaks in corners & the small section, chrome ,outer trim that fits into the rubber seal was never refitted. Should this be fitted before or after screen with rubber seal is installed? I can not easy push it into place now that the screen is fitted ? Also was there a response as to what sealent, if any, to use during refitting? Glen |
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| merc190uk | Mon Nov 7, 2011 9:13 pm Post #10 |
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The Godfather
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Hi Glen Sorry chap but screen back out ! The removal of the screen doesn't need that trimming to be removed or the refitting, it stays in place for both As for sealant we have all tried different things, think I used a roof sealant lol ! |
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| twopointsix | Mon Nov 7, 2011 9:53 pm Post #11 |
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Addicted
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3M 08509 Screen sealant. My bodyshop man used this when he removed and replaced a rear screen for me. He gave me the remainder of the tube after the job. Brilliantly gooey stuff that stays sticky underneath but skins over on the surface. I've also used it to replace the cracked and hardened sealant behind the C-pillar vents. Apply it with a mastic gun, wet your finger and smooth it over for a nice neat finish, wipe off any excess with white spirit. |
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| merc190uk | Thu Mar 28, 2013 12:45 am Post #12 |
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The Godfather
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pictures replaced due to me being an idiot
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| AndorIan | Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:16 am Post #13 |
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Part of things
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Thanks for adding the pictures back. Should be removing one this weekend and this will help a lot. Just hope it goes smoothly...! |
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| MBZ190D | Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:01 pm Post #14 |
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Highly Addicted
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I fancy tackling my new seal at the weekend as I can't afford to pay for someone to do it. Where do I put the liquid sealer ? Do I put it on before I install the window? |
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| stwat | Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:27 pm Post #15 |
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Here's mercs guide to doing it. http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/10013.pdf |
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| MBZ190D | Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:09 pm Post #16 |
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Highly Addicted
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Cheers Stu, will a windscreen bond do? |
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| hvs304 | Mon Nov 11, 2013 1:04 pm Post #17 |
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Hi all, I've just removed the leaking rear screen from my car and fortunately the rust around the frame is minimal and easily treatable before refitting. The seal seems fine and is not perished or cracked but reading through some old posts it seems most people recommend fitting a new one. Has anyone successfully refitted an old seal using the correct sealant and had no leaks? |
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| FloodIC | Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:53 am Post #18 |
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Gonna attempt this after Christmas. Would re using the old rubber be ok. And where do I put the sealant if I wanna add some. May sound like a stupid question but never fitted a window before |
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| Mork | Sat Dec 28, 2013 2:23 pm Post #19 |
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Part of things
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Don't fancy trying this myself, so getting a quote from Autoglass. That way, it's guaranteed too. Will also ask my body shop man to see if he can do it. That way, the rust can be treated at the same time.
Edited by Mork, Sat Dec 28, 2013 2:23 pm.
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| FloodIC | Sat Dec 28, 2013 6:37 pm Post #20 |
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Got a new seal thanks to Silver Star. Gonna try it next week. What would you treat small surface rust with? I have Lowe paint for rust in the shed. Would that be fine. It looks very very minimal |
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| stwat | Sat Dec 28, 2013 7:40 pm Post #21 |
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POR15 is great. http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint/por15-paints.html |
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| Mork | Sat Dec 28, 2013 8:28 pm Post #22 |
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Part of things
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How much are the seals? |
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| MBZ190D | Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:17 pm Post #23 |
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Highly Addicted
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Just over 40 quid from mb |
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| nullogik | Sun Dec 29, 2013 10:36 am Post #24 |
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More than part of things
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Could you post the part number? |
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| rick 1 | Mon Feb 3, 2014 12:50 pm Post #25 |
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More than part of things
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my rear demister doesn't work.(only a couple bars are live) ..ive got another rear screen. but before i commit myself and remove the old rear screen.i want to test the new one works. i was going to use a car battery and two wires, but i cant get the bloody thing to mist up. im useless with a multi meter can anyone explain what setting i need it on and what reading i should be getting please? Edited by rick 1, Mon Feb 3, 2014 12:56 pm.
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| MBZ190D | Mon Feb 3, 2014 2:20 pm Post #26 |
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Highly Addicted
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A resistance test will do the job. Yea I'll dig the pn out. |
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| rick 1 | Mon Feb 3, 2014 3:58 pm Post #27 |
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More than part of things
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brilliant thankyou. |
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| MBZ190D | Thu Feb 6, 2014 8:11 pm Post #28 |
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Highly Addicted
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MA2016700239 £41.30 plus the raggy mat. I got it for £36.35 plus. |
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| Mork | Fri Feb 7, 2014 2:11 pm Post #29 |
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Has anyone in the Leicestershire area removed and refitted a rear screen before? I can't do it on my own and it's leaking (although I have tried to reseal it, but it just won't have it)!! It's coming in at both bottom corners. I don't really want to have to pay for Autoglass to come and do it as well as paying for a new seal. Thinking of selling the car, but don't want to sell it on knowing the window is leaking. |
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| rick 1 | Fri Feb 7, 2014 2:17 pm Post #30 |
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More than part of things
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ive tried and i cant get the flippin thing out.ive admitted defeat and rang around for a few quotes. for those who are interested it comes in at around £70.(providing you have the new screen already) although i dont suppose this includes a new seal. something that just occurred to me.does windscreen cover on your insurance cover this as well? might be worth a thumb through the small print. Edited by rick 1, Fri Feb 7, 2014 2:19 pm.
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| Mork | Fri Feb 7, 2014 2:24 pm Post #31 |
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If it's broken they should cover it, but otherwise, probably not. |
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| rick 1 | Fri Feb 7, 2014 2:27 pm Post #32 |
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More than part of things
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ill get the hammer then
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| Mork | Fri Feb 7, 2014 2:37 pm Post #33 |
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I thought the same thing! I wonder though, if you phone your insurance and tell them it's broken, will they send someone out to check it? |
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| Mork | Fri Feb 7, 2014 2:56 pm Post #34 |
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Autoglass want £124 just to remove and refit! And if they break it they'll charge for a new screen! And then there's the seal on top of that plus any rust treatment. Better off smashing it and claiming on the bloody insurance at that price! |
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| rick 1 | Fri Feb 7, 2014 4:35 pm Post #35 |
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thata a complete joke !.try r.a.c? thats who i rang .one of many but always came out at around £70 just gave my local bodyshop a ding..£45
Edited by rick 1, Fri Feb 7, 2014 5:42 pm.
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| merc190uk | Fri Feb 7, 2014 10:20 pm Post #36 |
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The Godfather
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I'm in Northampton but the weather forecast is rubbish and I just don't have the time at the min and you need time to remove it fix any rust then replace it. Depending on the rust you may need a weekend. |
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| Mork | Sat Feb 8, 2014 9:09 am Post #37 |
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My body shop won't risk removing screens. It definitely needs some rust repair, I just hope I catch it in time . |
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| Mork | Sat Feb 8, 2014 10:32 am Post #38 |
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This is the worst of the rust from what I can see. It seems quite solid, so hopefully it's mainly bubbling. Going to have to give it a go I think. [IMG][URL=http://s939.photobucket.com/user/mork1973/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02/IMAG0802_zpsqmt1pegd.jpg.html] [/URL][/IMG]
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| Mork | Sat Feb 8, 2014 1:37 pm Post #39 |
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Does the metal trim separate once the window is out? How do you remove it? |
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| MBZ190D | Sat Feb 8, 2014 1:39 pm Post #40 |
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Highly Addicted
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It pulls off once the window is removed mate |
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previous owner removed & never properly refitted rear screen. Its pushed in, but leaks in corners & the small section, chrome ,outer trim that fits into the rubber seal was never refitted. Should this be fitted before or after screen with rubber seal is installed? I can not easy push it into place now that the screen is fitted ? Also was there a response as to what sealent, if any, to use during refitting?




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3:48 PM Jul 11