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Turbo Questions Guys-in Here
Topic Started: Sun Aug 26, 2007 8:43 pm (29,803 Views)
Racing
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Member
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Yes.
That would be way to small.
In fact,seing the flow characteristics of most era merc engines on the contrary think big.
Due to their inherent large flow numbers they will get a rather large turbo going in notime.
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RobertE
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Serial victim...
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Ah! He's back. That is welcome news. Hi, Jesper. We haven't seen enough of you recently...
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rmark
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Part of things
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ok. back again.

i have come across a T28 turbo. suspect it came off a 200sx or silvia.

the only figures i can see are on the compressor housing which are " A/R 60, m24"

would this turbo be suitable to start with on my 2.0/8v?

i will try to find out more on the turbine side.

Rob
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Conrad
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Therapy Needed
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Looking around on the interwebs, I found some info for you. Not gospel, but may point you in the right direction.

If it's stamped 1-1 then it's the ball bearing turbo from an S14, if it's 1-2 it's the ball bearing unit from an S15. That may help narrow it down some.
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matteus
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Quick question:

I have a M102 2.3 8V with Mosselman kit. Installed an AFR meter because the engine knocks/pings at full boost.
Well, the boost was set to high by the previous owner of the engine (+- 0.6bar, instead of 0.42), so I adjusted wastegate to maximum boost at around 0.45. Knocking is much better, but still not completely gone, and I'm scared I'll blow the engine.
Weird thing is: AFR meter says mixture is perfect at full boost 0.8-0.85 lambda.
Ignition is set at Mosselmans specs.

I've recently replaced fuel pump, accumulator, filter, all fuel-lines, fuel tank, and KE-jet injection head. The only thing left to renew are the injectors, which I will be replacing next.

Any thoughts on why the engine still knocks, even at correct ignition timing/AFR/boost?

Could it be there is an injector that makes 1 cilinder run lean, but the overall AFR measured by the Lambdasensor is OK?


Thanks!
Edited by matteus, Sun Sep 25, 2011 9:41 am.
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Mohammad
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weneakhborz
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what octane are using?
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alogaparaloga
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crazy mind
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The best ratio for road turbo cars is 12.8 AFR or 0.87 Lambda.
your engine is running a bit richer, so I would check that fuel is at least 98 RON, injectors are injecting same amount of fuel, and then I would check spark plugs. i.e. at full boost you may require a colder spark plug.
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matteus
Newbie
[ * ]
I'm running 98 octane all the time.
Sparkplugs are colder ones, prescribed by Mosselman (Bosch W5DC I think).
Injector test I still have to perform. Will do that when I find the time.

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Hamloin
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My question is how much power will the standard 2l take on standard internals?
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jimmyc63
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Ever consider a propane conversion along with the turbo? The propane system is a hell of a lot simpler than fuel pumps/injectors/etc, with the added benefits of being higher in octane (sic) and being a cold shot.

I have done quite a few turbo conversions in the past, and a couple utilized propane. (like small block Chevrolets and cummins diesels. The diesels only being propane assist) I had great results.

Honestly....I have only had my 190E for a little over 24 hours. (but in my head it is already apart) So I am still reverse engineering the Mercedes way of doing things. Anything is do-able....some things just take more money.

PS. I figured the REAL gearheads would be somewhere pretty close to a thread like this.
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alogaparaloga
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JimmyC63, sorry mate you are wrong. Propane does not have any Octane. just basic chemistry.

Running an LPG or CNG on an old school petrol engine will require some attention to the valves and valve guides as this fuels are dry. petrol offers some lubrication to the valve. CNG conversions on diesels are popular and they just require a turbine housing that is capable to cope with the higher temperatures created.
Keep in mind that LPG which is available for the car market has lower calorific value than petrol and as a result the stoichiometric ratio for petrol and LPG are different.

So for turbocharging any standard petrol engine I would go with 98 or 100 octane fuel and a calibrated ignition curve to avoid knocking.
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jimmyc63
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Correct you are sir.

2 questions.
Does anyone make an exhaust manifold for the turbo install, or do I buy a header kit and build my own with a t-4 flange?

A friend of mine says that I should be able to run on propane simply by having a mixer / vaporiser plumbed directly to the intake (the unit with the round plate/flap) I thought a person would have to remove all the fuel related items (but leave the injectors in their holes) and fabricate some type of throttle/butterfly plate between the mixer and the intake?

I realize that LPG hasn't got the BTU value of unleaded fuel, but if it is incorporated with a turbo, one can expect a reasonable amount of torque to the drive axles.

I guess why I am pushing this is....I have changed my fuel pumps and filter, they cycle and prime as required, but the thing stumbles and backfires. There was so much varnish and tar in the pumps that they were finished. I assume that the distribution unit, or even the injectors, are fouled as well. I have no experience with these things, and thought I could just avoid it all with propane.

FYI I am a heavy duty mechanic, and a welder/fabricator. Just not a Mercedes mechanic. Yet.
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