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Turbo Questions Guys-in Here
Topic Started: Sun Aug 26, 2007 8:43 pm (29,813 Views)
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No.
I´m NOT aiming for 900hp.
I´m aiming to go where it takes me in short,but i expect power to go up considerably from where we´re currently at.
Yup.
In total i´m considering using three Bosch 044 pumps in para that will shoot through a 1/2 feeder line(might make it 5/8)


Boost vs throttle input.
Again a matter of ECU control.
The physics of a turbo motor makes that it will "spool" itself into boost at a given throttle opening as revs go up.
To combat this we simply ask the same solenoid that we put in the control line for the WG to do another job,and that is that we tell the ECU to control this in a linear mode vs throttle input.
Simple and effective.
(X amount of throttle opening will maximum become Y amount of boost,until 100% throttle opening will become maximum set boost)

As you might have gathered by now...the use of boost control solenoids can make for a WORLD of difference from a dynamic driving point of view.
In short...engine dynamics.

What´s more is that we´re currently investigating the effects of using two of them.
The "first" one connected to "assist" the WG diaphragm to keep the WG closed,and as we reach the set boost limit(which the ECU will know through the MAP sensor) we divert the signal to the other one in hopes to create a "blow out" of the WG as it opens.
Again...a trick that might very well assist spool....
What´s more is that we can this way make boost amount 3D too.
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jimjimthehumanbin
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Ahh.. read the thread about the proposed engine build and not wanting to set a goal. Understood. Just achieving the best you can.

So the throttle v boost is like a supercharger relation to engine/crankshaft speed.

Smart stuff.

Look forward to seeing how the project comes along.

Turbo choice? Reading up on radial, axial. Is axial better.

All I know about fans personally is when we specify them when doing ventilation jobs. Usually we see axial on most stuff and when you need more extract you use centrifugal?

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Centrifugal vs axial.
A lot can be said on the subject,but to keep it real we´ll just settle for that the inherent physics of the centrifugal renders easier results at this time.

What most relate to when it comes to axials are roots type blowers.
Massive,poorly designed setups of positive displacement.
For those a little more into the loop the swedish lysholm screw is a vastly improved design on the same principle,and as such it indeed also has a much higher eta.

For any type of huffer it comes down a LOT to how efficient it is,and ALL of them are asked to perform a job(work).
During this work the eta(efficiency) will be the nomer of how much HEAT the huffer puts into the passing gas mass,which in turn will to a very high degree set the parameters for what can be expected.

Radial compressors...ATI,procharger and what have you..
These basicaly work on the same principle as the turbo,just with more "mechanical" induced boost and as such...lesser eta.

If we stop for a moment and look at various forms of racing some will be sure to voice up "why do they then use big ass roots types in topfuel racing?"
Main reason for this is really the sanctioning bodies.
There´s no arguing that the roots type blower has a rather poor eta,but on the other hand the "other" engine parameters are such that they "allow" for a high temperature load.(fuels involved for instance have a rather high negative latent temp)
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As you might have understood you can basicaly boost any motor.
In fact,even two strokes,wankels and what have you not.

However,this being a mercedes site,what are the potholes then?

For "sane" amounts of power i´d say nothing.
To up the performance of a given NA engine with a huffer you simply ad the SA system and the huffer and go.
Keep inducer size sane though,and DON`T shoot for the sky.
I see many many(especially younger enthusiast) that believe that the OEM motor will take it all,and of course that is false.

Then there is the "other" side of it.
If we then opt for the "next" level of power,what needs to be adressed?
1st i would like to go on record as the seasoned racer and put up a BIG ass warning sign for "trick of the week" parts.
Around the internet is has become all the rage that this or that part "needs" to be replaced to make power.Even to make the engine work.
Typical "monkey see,monkey do".

Of course this is mainly pure bullshit,and as always some simply logic needs to be applied.
More often than not the replacement of pistons is advocated.
Not so.
Most OEM pistons will take you a LONG way,and what they have talking for them is something the vendors of aftermarket pieces will NOT tell you and that is that behaviour of the piston under load has been investigated to an extreme vs the aftermarket pieces.
What i´m saying is that all the "cool" and shiny slugs are best left to us boys that indeed ARE shooting for the sky,and as such have stepped out of the design parameters for real of the original engine concept.
Another aspect is that of piston pins.
An area seldome adressed.
For a boosted engine forget you ever heard of "racing" ones.Tapered,thin walls,materials like H11 aso...they simply wont cope on a hardcore turbo engine.
ANY turbo engine.

As such i often come up on the conclusion that even for the more heavy duty turbo engines for the street some sort of modded OEM slug of forged variety is often the route to go when applicable.Reason being that...the piston in case will be trued and tested,piston pin-and control thereof-will be designed for millions of miles in a stocker asf asf.
Manufacturer will have close control of thermal expansion properties under load asf asf.

All design criterias that shouldn´t be taken lightly.

Further,an often discussed area is the one of connecting rods.
Sure.
At a given limit the OEM ones will throw in the towel,but this limit is often WAY higher than most will have you believe.What sets the limit here is how good you are at handling the programing of the engine to a large content.
Make no mistake tho.The producers of OEM parts are no idiots,and what they most certainly have that aftermarket suppliers(as well as guys like me) dont is a number of millions dollars to blow shit up for to find the limits of given designs.
In the case of the 102 engine...albeit heavy...i for one can attest to that the OEM early rods-which are still available through mercedes-will take a fair amount of power without even a hickup.(I still run them in my own motor at the power level i´m at)

That i´ve opted to swap them for my new engine is a matter of that i am realistic..in that this time out we´re going to push the envelope in such a manner that we-again-have in such a vast manner stepped out of the original power criterias so that logic tells that it is time for something else.

In general,let it be known that when putting the engine together VERY much as far as durability and power issues comes down to control of measurements and how you design wise put stuff together.

I for one am an advocate of that for ANY serious build up, be extreme -to being anal-about these issues.
You simply DON`T build harcore engines in a hurry.

For instance minute CONTROL of piston freeplay and making sure that the cylinders are absolutely cylindrical,linear asf is a downright MUST to make serious power.
Which...means that for any engine really i strongly advocate the use of a stressplate when performing a bore job for instance.
Yup.It WILL show up as "free" power when you fie her up and lean on her.

Crank of the 102 engine...will take anything you throw at it if you ask me.
It is a high quality forging from swedish Bofors.

Engine block per se then?
Well,after careful investigation of the block and how it is cast...what can i say?
Mercedes didn´t fool around.
Main webs asf looks to be indestructable.Block design is VERY thought through.
Deck reinforcement asf looks like it´s built to power a damn tank.

Newer designs are more often than not cast in such a manner that a lot of durability and strenght are sacrificed at the altar of weight,which in essence means that older designs will in the end be needed to avoid block and core shift under load when we´re starting to up the power for real.

Head then?
Well...when everything else fails...read the oops instructions in short.
Only fallacy would be mercedes choice of materials-which we have concluded stems from their aim to silent the engine down in operation.(valver that is)
By using the OEM designs of the valve guides aso but just using tougher materials much can be won.
Likewise with valves.
They´re simply to soft for any REAL high performance use(read revs)
The simply wont take it beyond 8 grand.

Turbos then.
In essence,what i´ve written earlier holds water to my knowledge.
Of course it also comes down to bias(what you want the engine to do) but in essence along my line of thinking i´d say that in general people pick especially cold sides that are WAY to small for the task,and at the bottom line will "strangle" the engine at hand from showing its potential.
In the case of the valver i´d say that a 55mm inducer is the ticket for most.
Set at approx 1 bar of boost that would render a 370-380hp engine easy if the exhaust hedder and downpipe are at least somewhat thought through.(for a well planned setup at even lesser boost)
That in turn will set a very "driveable" engine.
Something that will NOT want to flip the car on its roof when boost hits.

If you want more power,opt for a 60mm+ inducer.
A cheap way would be a GOOD chinese rip off of the old Garett SuperT70 design.
Watch out tho as there are MANY poor ones out there.
Check with others to see which vendor will deliver something that works,but having done that...go ahead.
Turbos in general are no marvel and the tech is old by now.
One of the first commercial turbo cars ever built was a Bentley back in the late 20s.Sort of puts things into perspective doesn´t it?
What i´m saying is that if you´re a racer...i can appreciate that you´ll pick a more modern and maybe even larger huffer for a valver,but for the average Joe that want´s to start investigating what´s there...a superT70 will do just fine.
Flow wise it´ll cope to somewhere around the 600 mark,and expect close to 400 on a valver around 1 bar with the correct setup and programing.
Spool will be at the valver typical 4 grand(just b4),as even the OEM cams makes it all happen at those revs anyways.
Not to worry tho as the car is geared for it anyway,and if you´ve set the static compression of the engine anywhere near stock...it´ll be as driveable as anything.
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Btw.
As the 103 series engine is basicaly a 102 engine with 2 cylinders added,what´s said here holds true for the 103 as well to an extent.
Which bring the 104 along for the ride i guess.
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dave_irl
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Aug 30 2007, 07:55 PM
Cool!

Dave.
No,not at all.
Although i have no real personal experience with em,there are a bunch of guys running bike carbs on the boost around here.Works as well as anything else i guess,but the point with the SA is the ability to 3D program the ign timing-which you´ll need on the boost with carbs one way or another no matter.


Interesting you say that about the ignition timing, I have already been planning to use the Megajolt Lite Jr ign controller, as I think distributors are a little dinosaur! Even if running carbs I can still use some electrowizardry. So with some nicely set up carbs, and standalone ign system, I think I might be pretty much there eh? :)
Just remap it when turbo time comes? PS speaking of when/if turbo time comes, I have been going down the n/a route so far, i.e. head flowing/cam/carbs/pistons etc.. Would it be as simple as putting in a thicker HG to drop the comp ratio a little, and remap ign, plumb in the blower and away you go? (bar small things like bigger fuel pump etc...) Because my head guy was asking whether turbo or n/a before he worked his magic, he said it would be totally different. And the piston guy is asking n/a or forced, cos they will be different.. For now everything planned is high rpm high comp n/a but you see where I'll probably end up in a year or two...

Make sense? :D
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Conrad
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:lol: I love your contradiction there Dave - going carbs, but then saying distributors are dinosaur. :)

;)
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RobertE
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Jesper is q. correct - there's little new under the sun. Fifty years ago, Carl Borward built an F2 engine on a stock 4 cylinder Isabella block; 1500 ccs, four valves, elec. ignition - 150 bhp! I think it was the first competition engine under under two litres which got to 100 bhp/litre unblown.
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Dave.
Correct that one biases a LITTLE different NA vs boosted when porting.
However,porting the hot side only as were done in the old days....then you´re 20yrs behind.
Remember...TOTAL system flow..

Problem with the valver is that if you intend on running high comps that will make you run a dome.A dome that WILL hinder burn characteristics down the road,and especially so on the boost.
Watercutting a copper headgasket to the correct thickness would be the least of your problems as i see it.

Yeah.No worries,you make sense :P
One thing tho...dont sell distributor short just yet.Call it dinosaur all you want,it performs the job at hand and it IS already there.
KISS..

If REAL performance is what you´re after forget you ever heard of coil on plug.
Not because it´s a bad idea in any way(on the contrary),but on the boost eventually you´ll notice that´s what´s available is stock COPs and these often leaves something to be desired from a capacity perspective.
Wastefire...yup..use the Bosch Motorsport coil.Works as well as anything.
Can also be hooked up to MSD and similar units if need be.

A dist has drawbacks.No argument there.However,as they´ve been around as long as they have the drawbacks can easily be remedied.
Further...it´s cheap.
Keep the dist.Cap and rotor costs of nothing aftermarket for the 102 engine.
Pick up a used MSD6 series.
Trigger the MSD over the MS unit and use the STOCK mercedes coil in the STOCK location.
Fresh OEM mercedes WIRES(you buy them by the meter incl knock on ends-cheap.

There you have an ignition setup that will carry you a LONG way...for fairly small money.
To combat the risk of crossfire...wring out a 1/4" drill bit.
Now take the dist cap off.
Drill a hole between the center post and No1 ign wire outlet.
What this does is leave the ozone produced an escape path-rendering the chance of crossfire more or less nil.
Further,it also gives you a hole to check for rotor phasing(alignment) with a strobe light.
Don´t worry that the hole´ll let in moisture and such.In fact...just forget about the hole when done.Trust me.

OEM fuelpumps of the cossie will suffice into the 500hp region.
You tell me if you need more :D


Robert.
Yup.
To really LEARN stuff,we should ALWAYS take a long good hard look at our history.

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RobertE
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Talking of which, Jesper, the obvious question arises, given Mercedes history with V8s, is the developement we've seen with the 500E 32 valve basically an evolution of the Cosworth head design on the four?

I've never looked inside the engine of a 500E, but I'm sure someone here has. If it is, I am going to add one to my shopping list...
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Racing
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I have.
To my knowledge this was an inhouse AMG product.
Will it take to the boost?
Of course.
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Practical case then.
Had an E30 2.5 bimmer at the shop yesterday.
Equipped with a superT70 chinese rip off(60.5mm inducer).
Runs a DTA S60 pro engine management system and 460cc injectors.
Car didn´t run worth a crap performance wise,and owner seeked me out for assistance.
Engine is basicaly stock,only equipped with a MLS(multi layer steel)head gasket and ARP head studs.That´s it.(Known wekapoints of the old B25 bimmer engine when one ads the boost)

An approx is that engine put out maybe 200bhp on 0,7 bars(approx 10psi)

Now,the MLS gasket is 3mm thick vs the OEM 1.75.
That and some basic calculations left us with that static comp would be around the 7,8 mark for this engine(85*74 and 8,8 OEM)

Looked at the timing tables,and those were conservative to say the least but i wanted to stay conservative for customer comfort and duarability.

However,the timing figures used was NOT set with that low a static in mind.
7.8*1.7 total makes for an approx 13,3 dynamic-which is nothing really.
Something that could very well be run NA even.

So...i increased timing to approx 27 deg(from 20) at 0,7 and this way built a new timing map.
As i did the wideband lambda changed accordingly(fuel need varies with timing amongst other variables)

Again to be safe i set fuel to approx 0,85 lambda at WOT.

Net effect?
Well,we at least passed 300 honest ones i can tell you that much,but more so the difference in dynamic behaviour of the car changed dramaticaly.
Thing here is to take the timing need vs static compression and boost to heart,and have in mind that on a programable stand alone these are all 3 dimensionaly changable.

Would it have been my own bucket i would most def have investigated the timing need further with an onboard EGT,shooting for the lowest EGT values under load(log) until happy and then start adjusting fuel until the EGT got as hot as poss again.

No matter tho,as this was a customers car i opted to stay "sane" as there was a budget limit to the job-which i guess is understandable.

In short we extracted over 100hp from just some basic work(approx 5 hrs total-including changing plugs and what have you not) and by basic questioning of the setup,which to an extent is to prove my point.

Bolt-50 pence.
Knowing where to put it-499,50. :lol:

Customer left with a BIG ass grin on his face at least.
Going sideways. :blink: :lol:

Told him that it is safe to ad 0.3 bars without any fears for an easy 30-40hp more if need be.

Only thing that needs to be adressed that was severe-which could be "patched" i guess-is that the tables for the MAP sensor wasn´t completely on par.
Have written DTA on the subject and hope Allan will get back with those if he´s got them asap.
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Well,Tomas-the owner of the bimmer-,tried the dragstrip today.
Could say he was happy with trap speeds of just shy of 180km/h on 0,7 bars.
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CrysAk
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Racing, you know anyone respectable over here in the UK that can setup my turbo install on a rolling road onces its all bolted together?
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Nope.
Sorry,i don´t.
Been a long time since i even sat foot in GB-sorry to say.
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Further on the same topic.
Please understand the following.
When you hit a chassis dyno the time used it most often used to sort the engine out at WFO.
IOW,the session on the rollers will say VERY little of dynamic behaviour and general behaviour.
In my book these things are to this day best sorted out with you-the owner-behind the wheel and someone that understand the SA system at hand in the passenger seat with laptop open.

Again...
An engine can produce a zillion hp for all i care if it isn´t usable.

So..in essence FIRST up you don´t need the chassis dyno.
FIRST up you need the assistance of someone who knows to setup and config your specific stand alone.
THEN you can(should) hit the dyno to evaluate WTF is going on at WOT asf.

In fact,someone familiar with a given system and a given engine setup will most likely be able to set the engine up SANS a dyno within 2-3% of what the setup is capable of-to give you an idea.

What i more or less always do is let the cust out the door with very conservative programing.
Reasons for this is twofold.
First he´ll get a fighting chance to understand the setup.It is as much about the end user getting to know the setup as sorting a given setup out.
With turbos power will ALWAYS be there,so that´s NOT the issue.
Second,it gives the setup a fighting chance to be evaluated.

No point in having stuff go AWOL at full boost and power,and chances are that with the more "mundane" setup IF something breaks or whatever the harm done will be less.
This can be accounted for as anything within the setup-down to stuff like oipressure lines and return ditto for the huffer.
Check first
Go fast second.
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Conrad
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In which case I would recommend the Emerald ECU. It is costly, no two ways, but once you've bought it you pop down to the workshop (which, incidentally is about 15 minutes from my house) and let them set it up for you on and off the dyno.
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Have one thing in mind when it comes to dynos in general.
They´re NOT there to hand you a piece of paper for braggin rights.
They´re there to find faults and shortcomings.

Ie;they can´t very well help you make the engine do something that it already isn´t capable of.
Ergo sum,the assistance of someone that knows their way around the SA in case is of utmost importance.
No matter which system.

On the other hand...if you know one,you know them all.
What sets various systems apart is details and user config,cause they sure as hell PERFORM the same thing every dayum one of them.
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Conrad
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Ooo, ooo, I have a question.
What is going to happen to this guys car?

http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-forced-in...-turbo-mod.html
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This...this is the workings of the spawn of Tupac and Rosie McDonnel.

For the f-ing love a gawd...That dude there must be one of the darwin boys that gets ALL his groundbreakin ideas when on PCP or speed!
The word IDIOT does not suffice by a long shot!
Moron is WAY to soft.

What´s left?
The install of hotrod sparkplugs?

Only goes to show you...there´s a TRUE idiot born every day,and i SINCERLY hopes that thing blows up in such a manner that he loses a couple of toes and thereby mobility.
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Posted Image
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Conrad
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:lol: :lol: :lol:

You would have thought that if he has enough savvy to turbo the car in the first place, that he would have realised how insanely stupid he's being?
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Seriously.
You made my day.
No two ways about it.
I f-ing HAVE to have that thing on the wall of the shop(gotta blow it up tho),and indeed...from here on out when something comes in the door fubar,ed beyond belief...it´ll be copexed.
I absolutely f-ing guarantee.

Jesper
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Conrad.
For the love of GAWD put up a link in the turbo thread over at the rev!!!!
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Posted Image

Honestly Conrad.
I just had to revisit the page this morning.
See...i friggin WOKE UP laughin.

Copex is gettin famous to say the least tho.
To such a degree that he´s gotten his own site even,and it´s pushin forward i´d say..

Copex the turbo innovator
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Conrad
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Done. B)
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Big Ben
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Sep 4 2007, 08:27 AM
Posted Image

Honestly Conrad.
I just had to revisit the page this morning.
See...i friggin WOKE UP laughin.

Copex is gettin famous to say the least tho.
To such a degree that he´s gotten his own site even,and it´s pushin forward i´d say..

Copex the turbo innovator

My God Jesper!!

That photo brings back BAD childhood memories!! :o :o scary.gif
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Conrad.
One of the boys at the shop is a guy by the name of Jonas.
Now...Jonas has two jobs.
With me...and the other at Volvo Pentas engine laboratory.
Cooooooooould say that the pic of Copex´s development since today is posted on the wall of these guys lunch room,cause when i showed the URL to Jonas he more or less fell off the chair.
Have in mind...what these boys do is evaluate turbo setups for a living..dyno rooms and sessions all day.

To a degree...where he had to call me up over the day just to laugh...and i could hear his coworkers doing the same in the background.

Copex.
WHAT a marvel!!
Indeed...i say we vote the MF for president...like right now.

Word gene pool comes to mind.

Big Ben.
Didn´t mama tell you drugs are BAD fer ya?
N´kay... :lol:
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CrysAk
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Racing, thanks for the info

jsut need a little more to clarify (sorry my mechanicle knowledge is non exsistent but im willing to learn ^^)

so teh story is...

ill be throwing in a 2.3 8v in replacement for my 1.8

then matt here on the forum is going to throw the turbo on at a low boost so i can drive to get it "set up properly"

what exactly do i have to do to "set it up properly" will the guys at a dyno know what to do? , what exactly will go on and what needs testin/ adjusting?

once again sorry for my lack of knowledge and stupidity in opting to turbo my first car lol :P

then again i wouldnt learn what im about to learn over the next few months without doing it ^^
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First thing´s first.
What engine management?
If OEM...just run as is.
No point in even trying to tune it.
An ad on fueler might be a good idea to fire one or two additional injectors in such a scenario,but in that case is believe it is an absolute MUST to pick up a wideband lambda setup.
Screw gettin on the dyno.
Just install the piggyback and tune for a safe AFR.

Know of a couple of guys that started out that way around here,and they actually got pretty fair results before running into trouble(read installed bigger huffer/upped the boost by much).
Much of it a result from mercedes OEM very conservative timing.
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CA.
Have one thing perfectly clear tho.
If you decide to run a stand alone(yeah yeah...i know...issue of monetas) 200hp out of the 8V even is a dayum joke.
If you pick a huffer of something like 45-50mm inducer my bet is that you´ll be a happy camper.
Much of the dimension of the old fabled "group A" huffers of the 80s.
Ie 45-50 inducer and a 63 turbine AR.
That would suffice upwards of 360-370 at wish,and would STILL cope an easy 250+ at midrange levels of boost.
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CrysAk
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ok thanks for the info, but alot of that went right over my head :(

engine management?
additional injectors?
piggyback?
AFR?


stand alone - monetas?)
inducer?


sorry :S i know very little about this kinda thing was hoping it was gonna be a little easier fitting a turbo haha, man was i wrong, still gotta learn this stuff sooner or later ^^ better now than later

Thanks again for all the info, if you could explain in a little more depth what each part is, what it does if you have the time that would be great, if not ill head over to google ^^

[edit] oh just incase i didint mention or you didnt know, the turbo in question is the bolt on mossleman 8v kit for the M102 8v engine if that makes any difference
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Conrad
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Engine management - Bosch K-Jetronic CIS.
Additional injector - self explanatory really... Chucks more fuel in if your current ones can't keep up with demand.
Piggyback - an additional ECU or similar that will run alongside, or on top of your current system to monitor when you require more fuel in order to turn on the fifth injector.
AFR - air/fuel ratio.
Stand alone - stand alone injection system to replace the K-Jetronic CIS.
Monetas - money.
Inducer - the spinning bit on a turbo that sucks air in.
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CrysAk
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thanks make s a little more sense now :D

but still a bit :S about what to do lol
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Racing
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Ca.
I think it´s great that you voice up!!

Inducer.
The "smallest" diameter of the compressor wheel of the turbo(part that you can actualy see the "fins" of with the compressor housing in place).The inducer sets the airflow capacity of a given turbo,and as such how many horsepower it will support.


AFR.
Air/Fuel ratio.
Commonly it is said that when you mix all the available air with fuel so that there are no "left over"(car is neither running rich or lean) you´re at something called Lambda 1.
Lambda 1 equals an AFR of approx 14.7:1 air/fuel

When setting a TURBO engine up one usualy does so on the rich side for any appreciable load rendering an AFR NOT of 14.7 but somewhere around 12:1 for the novice,and us seasoned boys go towards leaner AFRs as knowledge increase of how the specific engien reacts to it.

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Racing
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Btw.
The mosselman turbocharger is by MY way of thinking(as things have evolved a little since the intro of the mosselman) to small.

If you want to get an idea of capacity,just unbolt the compressor housing and measure over the minimum diameter of the exposed wheel.

There´s absolutely no harm in any way doing this.
When done,just bolt the housing back on.

Cold side(compressor) is the aluminium coloured housing of the turbo

If you then look at the hotside of it(usualy black or a bit rusted to the colour) you´ll notice a couple of numbers on that housing somewhere.
Usualy somewhere close to where the housing bolts to the exhaust hedder flange.
This will be .XX or 0.XX
Write this down as well,and post what you find and we´ll give you a pretty good idea of what the turbo in case is capable of.

My guess is that it will be a T3(which is a nomer for the flange) of approx 30-35 inducer and a .48 turbine AR.
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CrysAk
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thanks dude thats alot of help :D

at the mo im a little drunk and the turbos at teh bottom of a box with all the other kit on top so gonna leave it there tonght but will post that info tomoro ^^

dont wana damage it.. or myself haha (things fekin heavy)

cheers
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Racing
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Screw being cautious.

The new huffer for the new car and the new engine.
Looking forward to the engine block takin on the shape of hindenburg.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Again.
This is NOT for a race car,but a street car.My to come...daily beater.

This is the compressor map for it.

Posted Image

68lbs of air...is a SHITLOAD of power if the engine will just take to swallow it down..
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Racing
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...and if the 72mm won´t fix it...it´ll be time for the HEAVY artillery.

Posted Image

Screw being modest.
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Conrad
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Jeezy creezy. :lol:
What's that from, a plane or something?
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