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Turbo Questions Guys-in Here
Topic Started: Sun Aug 26, 2007 8:43 pm (29,807 Views)
dave_irl
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What a shame that whole stupid thing was.. there was a big flame Jesper bandwagon going around, some exmembers really went overboard, I wouldnt blame him for not coming back, all he ever did here was provide some genius raw tuning advice, straight from the cutting edge, so to speak. Even if things went wrong between himself and Maki, it was nothing to do with us. Maki has gone as quick as he came, and took Jesper with him. But this thread is pretty much still alive on the Rev so the info is out there. Still, I feel it shouldnt have happened. Not in the spirit of the club eh. At least things are lots calmer now :)
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cossie connoisseur
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there can be only one ;-)
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last couple of months have been better, long may that continue :)
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hal9000
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I've talked to Jesper via email once or twice since then, and lets just say that his side of the story does not at all match with the accusations that Maki was making. I for one give Kudos to Jesper for not wanting to descend into all the petty bickering that was going on. He never said it, but I think he left because he was more discouraged that so many other members jumped to conclusions and started bad mouthing him without knowing the whole story than he was that Maki had posted.

Anyway, if you try you can still get hold of him on one of the other forums he posts on (they're mentioned throughout his threads)

Barring that, Let's see if we can channel Jesper's spirit and awnser zoomer's questions:

1) Turbo: The reason for upgrading to a more modern turbo design has less to do with electronics than it does with things like spool time and surge characteristics. There's no problem with running a garret t series turbo with a modern fuel injected engine. If you have the turbo and it fits your needs, then I say use it.

2) ITBs: As a general Rule, ITBs won't make enough of a difference on a turbo engine to warrant all the extra cost and work that it takes to install them. You need to be a relatively advanced tuner to be able to adjust them properly and tune the EMS. Unless you're racing your car competitively or already have experience with ITBs, I'd say that the KISS rule applies and you'll be better off with a single large throttle body and a modified intake manifold. Barring that, I've heard that for a NA 2.3-16, 46-48mm is about what you want as far as ITB diameters go. Until you really go crazy with your turbo system, you can probably follow the same rule since the turbo pressure will overcome any flow restrictions.

3)EMS systems: Jesper was a big proponent of the VEMS system. Lots of other users worldwide have successfully used Megasquirt (I'm working on my MS system right now) and you would have a good base of knowledge to start from if you went that route. But you could easily go with any commercial system that isn't as setup intensive. They're just more expensive.

4)Cylinder head: Jesper was running custom cams and a heavily ported head with stock size, SS valves and custom springs and retainers if I recall. He was also warning people constantly to leave the head alone. For all intents and purposes, it flows plenty good in stock form (It moves enough air for most V8 engines). Not only that, but due to the design of the head, you can do more damage than good with a low budget porting job. Any porting beyond just matching the intake and exhaust should be left to a professional tuner who is intimately familiar with the cosworth head. The easy solution if you have a 2.5L head already is to port match the intake and exhaust, modify the stock cam gears to make them adjustable and then bump the advance up (Jesper suggested an LCA of around 106 degrees if I remember correctly), and add some lightweight SS springs. This will take you a LONG way towards your goals. If you need more in the future, then you can start looking at high lift cams. Porting should be the last choice in my opinion. .... And DONT plan to merge the intake ports! They are siamesed for a good reason and just hogging all the metal out of there wont do anything but destroy the flow characteristics of the cylinder head.

5)Bottom end: I've never hear of a crank failure, but the general consensus is that the rods will start failing as you approach the 400 hp mark; and the 2.5L pistons are not forged so may not suffice for a turbo application. Jesper suggested looking to Volvo for aftermarket rods and pistons. You can also look to most any small block chevy large journal rod as a replacement, and Chevy 305 or 307 CI pistons in the .040 to .060 size can also be made to fit. Beware that you'll need to be a little creative here since neither the volvo or chevy parts are designed to be piston guided like the mercedes parts. You'll need either to add wristpin spacers or do some fancy machin work on the crank and rods to make them crank guided. Also, in both cases you'll need to do some machining to the top of the piston to get the correct compression height and valve reliefs. I haven't checked into it yet, but it looks as if Nissan vq35 pistons may also be a possibility for piston replacement, and by the looks of them, the valve reliefs might be in the correct place......

6)Exhaust: The stock header is very well matched for turbo systems on this engine. Just use it as a model, or better yet flip it over upside down, cut off the collectors, and weld on a turbo collector and use the OEM header as your turbo header. From the turbo-back, it's up to you, but I suggest either 2.5" or 3" piping and a racing style muffler and catalytic converter (if you run one).

7)Jesper came up with a modified diff. Photos are probably buried earlier in this thread, or one of his other threads. Basically he added two plates and several springs in order to add some tension to the clutches. I haven't investigated it, but I think that the same thing can be accomplished with the S-spring out of a ford trak-lik diff. As long as the correct size spring is available, it would just be a drop in mod.
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zoomer46
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great post hal900!

that was very informative,and well written.

surprised that porting is not really needed,but basically was trying to rid the system of any restrictions,already have a nice big i-c and turbo,
being a t4 its quite laggybut great when its on song its old school instant whoosh and a great wastegate t-t-t-t-t...

jesper and jeretto have throttle bodies,and it seemed to me that a single large flap like the k-jet would never do enough to flow for big power?but i cant find how big the diameters are for them?

as for the vems i have little knowledge,and also the m-s system,can you throw away the oe ecu with these units?

good ideas on the crank and rods front , am looking for a bolt on set of parts to avoid screwing up adapting parts for it..


and you say standard size valves too,just shows how good this head is at flowing and how forced induction overcomes some restrictions of which it seems there is not many,

seems like my estimate for exhaust diameter was not so far off,so i will go with 3'' to avoid doing it twice.

not sure what are ss springs ,other than stainless steel? and lca meaning too?

not so sure who would be ideal in the uk to port the head,or who knows the best mods for the 2.5-16 head,
i have been trying to find the number for the people who run the old mg with the dtm engine,i think they are called atec.?

cams i think are easy to change as i'm told they are only metal sprayed and shaped ,so oe's could be used to shape .

thanks again hal,
jesper pm'd me to give his reasons,for not replying here,and did not try and slag off the site at all,he was just a little dissappointed at a select few,especially as he had put in so much time and effort for free to help others on the site,so for the people who slagged him off without knowing the full story and meeting the man,shame on you,you know who you are...
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Conrad
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Absolutely. What happened has nothing to do with anyone here, and those who jumped on the band wagon to slag him off had absolutely no right to do so.
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RobertE
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zoomer46
Mar 12 2008, 06:00 PM

jesper pm'd me to give his reasons,for not replying here,and did not try and slag off the site at all,he was just a little dissappointed at a select few,especially as he had put in so much time and effort for free to help others on the site,so for the people who slagged him off without knowing the full story and meeting the man,shame on you,you know who you are...

V. pleased to know he's OK. I must say, there was more than a whiff of ambush and sabotage about the whole thing (as I read the thread in its entirity) and the way that some people leaped in with both feet was a bit silly; wtf could they bring to what was a one on one dispute?
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hal9000
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zoomer,
you can reduce your spool time/lag by changing the housings on the turbo. T-4 housings are a dime a dozen. You should be able to find a smaller volume exhaust housing pretty easily. You might even want to investigate switching to a T-3 Hot side and making a T3/T4 hybrid. That's a pretty popular turbo over here in the US. Just don't go too small as you'll build a lot of extra heat in the head and hurt your overall performance.

SS is stainless steel. Jesper was using Ferrea Stainless valves and some aftermarket springs which he never named by brand. Overall, the cossie head is a work of art already and since it's so well designed, that limits the improvements that can be made by porting. Some of the later heads had a pretty rough casting, so there may be some cleanup to do, but the 2.5L engine already had larger ports than the 2.3L, so you can count yourself lucky from that standpoint. Aftermarket valves have a smoother back side and will improve the flow a little, as well as being lighter and allowing for higher rpm before valve float becomes an issue.

LCA is lobe center angle (I think I got that right). It's the angle measured between the intake and exhaust lobes of a camshaft (In our case, two camshafts). It affects valve overlap. On a twincam engine, you can adjust the LCA by changing the timing on one or both of the cams. I think that Jesper was primarily just adjusting the intake cam, but if you ask him, he'll probably be able to advise you better. Basically changing the time that the valves open in relation to engine rotation, and the amount of valve overlap you have, you change the amount and distribution of power the engine makes.

Jesper is working on an ITB setup, but to the best of my knowledge, he's still running a single TB on his turbo motor... as is Joreto. There's a user on 190revolution (since I saw you posted there), who started on a turbo ITB setup a few years ago, but he abandoned the itbs and just went with a single throttle body due to the extra difficulty that the individual throttle bodies caused. Search for posts by evo2turbo and you should find his posts.
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zoomer46
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good info again hal,2.5 head is better,thats good!also can i use 2.3-16 forged pistons?same bore,different stroke?

i'll leave the tb's for the min i think,

also i said to jesper i would post it on the rev,for him to answer if he wanted,i hope this does not make you thinki dont trust you're opinion,but i promised b4 you answered,



managed to find the offending thread a few mins ago,and it seems like there where alot of misunderstandings,

and it looked like a few of maki's buddies were press ganged into commenting too,very suspicious.

if i was jesper i would of stopped posting in that thread too,i think he is above it and this site lost its biggest tuning friend as a result of mob culture creeping onto the net.

wish i knew this had happened ,as it took me ages to make the post. :angry:
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RobertE
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hal9000
Mar 12 2008, 06:50 PM


Jesper is working on an ITB setup, but to the best of my knowledge, he's still running a single TB on his turbo motor... as is Joreto.  There's a user on 190revolution (since I saw you posted there), who started on a turbo ITB setup a few years ago, but he abandoned the itbs and just went with a single throttle body due to the extra difficulty that the individual throttle bodies caused.  Search for posts by evo2turbo and you should find his posts.

Well it will be interesting to compare notes once my project is finished. A brief update - the man making the manifold has all the notes from way back and is nearly done - down to the powder coating at present.

The point regarding intake length is well made and well taken - without the fuel-driven rev limiter, these engines will rev to 10K, I am told, and therefore will not last long!

I am using a custom manifold (pics to follow) and Jenvey tbs. Given what is coming out of the engine bay - lots - there should be enough room for either trumpets or a fabbed airbox. Until I know exactly how much room there ism this will have to wait.

A possible plus is better braking! The pipe between the servo and the manifold will be about half the length of the existing setup...
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dave_irl
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I am really looking forward to seeing your pics Robert. I too noticed the plentiful bay space after the "KE-delete".. I was thinking something along the lines of the Pipercross PX6000 airbox, or the Reverie Silverstone (carbon fibre) box would be good solutions, allowing remote filter location not to mention access to some colder air from the grille..

My intake manifold has four small takeoffs (one on each runner), and a fifth, larger take off on #4 cylinder runner for the brake servo. Im interested in how yours takes off, do you think it would be ok running it from just one cylinders vacuum? Or could it be lumpy etc..

I'm going to use those 4 take offs to service a vacuum reservoir to provide a clean reading for the MAP sensor in my Megajolt, but Im unsure would it be wise to feed the brakes from this reservoir too, e.g. every time I brake hard my MAP reading goes out the window!
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RobertE
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Well if there's room, we'll run it from under the intake between #2 and #3, otherwise tap in wherever we can. I was having a squint today, and maybe there's room for a bigger servo, as, if all goes well, we're going to need bigger brakes anyway...
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hal9000
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zoomer46
Mar 12 2008, 11:53 AM
...,i hope this does not make you thinki dont trust you're opinion,but i promised b4 you answered,.

No offense taken! I learned a lot of what I told you from Jesper anyway... Hopefully he'll back my conclusions up!

The 2.3-16 pistons will work just fine, but you're going to pay through the nose for them (if you can find them that is).

Honestly, if you have a hookup at a machine shop, I'd consider following Jespers lead and modifying a set of flat top pistons from another engine. If you're brave, you can check your local high school to see if the machine shop kids can do it (they're always looking for projects). Otherwise you should make friends with your local shop proprietor and convince him to cut you a deal on labor. The closest shop to me (I live out in the boonies) wanted to charge $20 USD per valve relief cut, which might not be that worthwhile for a full set of pistons if you had to pay full price....

Forged 96mm volvo pistons cost about 1/4 as much as mercedes pistons, so they are a good starting point. If you go with chevy rods, you can check the 305 or 307 pistons (even cheaper than the volvo pistons). Keith black makes 0cc flat top pistons that are designed as machine to fit pistons, but they're not forged. They'd work great for a NA setup, but I might think twice if it was a turbo motor. So far I haven't found forged flat top 305 pistons. I'm considering buying a set of dish top pistons and seeing about getting those machined to fit for my engine. If the compression is too low, I can always have the block decked to raise the compression....

If I can lay my hands on a set to compare the valve pockets to the stock 16V pistons, I think that the Nissan VQ35 pistons may be a good choice, but that might involve re-bushing your con-rods to match the wristpin (Very cheap operation for most machine shops).

As you can see, there are a few options. None of them are 100% drop in, but if you do your research, you can probably manage to find the best solution for your needs.
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zoomer46
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jesper replied on the rev,and it was everybit as informative as you hal !

uncanny ,you chanelled the spirit well fella,

come to the conclusion that i could maybe use standard forged 2.3-16 pistons with -2,4mm shorter conrods to achive an 8;1 compression ratio,moch better than using the standard comp; i'm running,and safer too...

great ideas on the pistons though, any of your ideas look like they could work,especially the nissan ones.

just thought,if i used 2.3-16 pistons are the valves bigger on the 2.5?
i'm thinking that i dont want to hit the sides if the crown cutaways,on the 2.3 pistons?

and robertE,
i have servo from a w129 500sl to fit into mine,
its around twice the depth,but it will go!may need to bend back a small bracket near the turret i think,but it looks like a goer!
if i fit that and the 8 pot ap's i know are for sale, i tghink i'm gonna be kissing the windscreen everytime i brake,anyone for willwood 4 pots and drilled discs if i do?
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hal9000
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To the best of my (limited) knowledge the 2.3 and 2.5 have the same size valves. The only difference is the slightly larger intake runners (28mm vs 26mm).

Be careful with the pistons though. The 2.3ECE engines (the ones with 10.5 compression ratio) have a compression height which is .7mm taller than the KAT engines (9.7:1 Comp ratio). If you get the ECE pistons, you'll either need to machine them down and re-cut the valve reliefs, or you'll have to shorten the rods a little more.

Also, remember that rod length is one of the things that dictates where in the RPM range the engine makes its power. Ideally, most street cars should have a rod ratio (ratio of rod length:stroke) of around 1.7:1 to 1.8:1. lower ratio engines (shorter rods) will be biased towards the lower end of the rpm range. If you go too far with shortening rods, you'll end up with a bottom end that wants to build power at low revs, and a head that wants to build power at high revs... and you might not get either.

The way around this is to use pistons with a shorter commpression height so you don't have to shorten the rods. Or you can use a decompression plate, but that's usually a second choice or low budget fix to the problem.
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RobertE
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zoomer46
Mar 13 2008, 07:52 PM

and robertE,
i have servo from a w129 500sl to fit into mine,
its around twice the depth,but it will go!may need to bend back a small bracket near the turret i think,but it looks like a goer!
if i fit that and the 8 pot ap's i know are for sale, i tghink i'm gonna be kissing the windscreen everytime i brake,anyone for willwood 4 pots and drilled discs if i do?

That is reassuring to know; a more powerful servo is, given that conditions are unkown, probably the next thing once I have it running properly.
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hal9000
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Zoomer,
I noticed that Joreto mentioned that the 2.3 pistons are not compatible with the 2.5 rods in your discussion on the rev. The difference is the early 2.3 pistons had a 24mm wristpin and the later 2.3's and all the 2.5's used a 22mm pin. If you want to use the early 2.3 pistons with the 24mm pin (good choice for strength reasons) you can just use the early 2.3 rods as well. That's actually a good choice since the early rods are much stronger than the later rods that have been known to go awol at around 400hp.
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zoomer46
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thats super advice,was going to find some proper high strengh rods anyway,but thats some super info ,didnt know there were 2 types of 2.3-16 piston, thanks for telling me,now , whos got some? :D

the servo thing is in the near future i hope,pics of course.. B)
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hal9000
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Like I said earlier.... Good luck finding the pistons. I've heard that Mercedes wants something like $400 each for them. You can get custom pistons from Ross, JE, or Weisco for much less than that.
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Maki
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Although it doesn't have anything to do with this thread just to "share'" some information

@ dave irl : No i haven't gone - but since my car is out because of the mentioned reasons - and i don't have money to do the whole thing again i can't share usefull information and you guys have to wait untill next year when i will redo my complette setup up! So my car will be because of Jesper all the year in the garage !

@ Hal9000 - i know that Jesper is your friend ( no prob with that ) - but of course his story will sound different - what do you expect ? He want's to save his buisness!

If you think jesper left because he was dissapointed....trust me ....Nope....

Hal9000 i know that people like reading what jesper writes....so was i...it sounds everythign sooo nice....but why didn't it work out on my car ?

But just as an information...the reason i wrote this here was to share my experiences with Jesper ....

And be asured - the "story" hasn't finished yet - just wait some time and see what will happen !

Bye
Maki

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dave_irl
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Maki
Mar 17 2008, 02:55 PM
Although it doesn't have anything to do with this thread just to "share'" some information

@ dave irl : No i haven't gone - but since my car is out because of the mentioned reasons - and i don't have money to do the whole thing again i can't share usefull information and you guys have to wait untill next year when i will redo my complette setup up! So my car will be because of Jesper all the year in the garage !

No problem Maki ;)
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hal9000
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Maki,
Jesper and I aren't "friends" per-se. My only interaction with him is over the internet.... but that being said, he HAS given me a fair amount of advice over the last few years, and all of it has proven to be good in the long run. That's his track record with me.

Your track record with me is.... well, nothing (No offense intended). The only thing that I know about you is what you've posted up here, and since none of it pertains directly to me I have no way to judge how good or accurate any of the information is.

I've been a business owner and have seen my share of unhappy customers in my own and other small businesses, and I've been on the other side of the fence as well and been an irate customer. My opinion is that you and the community at large would have been better served if you had limited your comments to short but polite warnings that you had a bad experience. I for one discounted your first post on the subject as soon as I read it just because of your tone. You sounded too much like those customers that nobody can ever please for me to pay you much heed.

Please don't think that I'm making a personal attack on you, because I'm not.... But in my experience, I have NEVER seen a business that would intentionally treat some customers well and then completely screw others. A business owner either cares about his customers or he doesn't. And I've NEVER seen a customer complaint which the customer didn't share some level of liability in the problems due to their own actions, attitude, or poor communications with the business. Both of those things can happen, but they're exceedingly rare. No matter what your opinion and perspective is. I recommend that you (and everybody else who reads this), keep that in mind, and maybe re-examine the situation with a more critical eye. I'm sure that there's some level of truth in what you posted, but I'm also willing to bet that you've intentionally or unintentionally polished the story a bit to make you look more slighted than you actually were....that's human nature and we're all guilty of it.

Now, you've had your say and caused a bunch of ruckus, Jesper opted not to publicly counterattack for reasons of his own, I've jumped in and stuck my nose in where it doesn't belong; as have several other members. Please do us all a favor and stop beating a dead horse. I for one would rather get back to talking about cars. I don't come here for the cat fights.
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Big Ben
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Quote:
 
Now, you've had your say and caused a bunch of ruckus, Jesper opted not to publicly counterattack for reasons of his own, I've jumped in and stuck my nose in where it doesn't belong; as have several other members. Please do us all a favor and stop beating a dead horse. I for one would rather get back to talking about cars. I don't come here for the cat fights.

Perfect!
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RobertE
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Big Ben
Mar 17 2008, 04:49 PM

Perfect!

Hear, hear!
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zoomer46
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i could'nt of said it better hal...


you just went up even more in my estimations buddy,


PLEASE NO MORE ON THE ARGUEMENTS,ITS A BLOODY TURBO THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Maki
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hal9000
Mar 17 2008, 04:28 PM
Please do us all a favor and stop beating a dead horse.  I for one would rather get back to talking about cars.  I don't come here for the cat fights.

@Hal900- i don't now if u noticed but in the last posts i was mentioned and questions were asked !
So i just wrote some informations and that's it !
I 've no interest in starting over with this whole thing ! :unsure:
That's it from me
Bye
Maki
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hal9000
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Yup, but every time you post, you tie it back into how you got screwed over at Racing's shop.....

Last I'm going to say on the issue. Time to practice what I preach!
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zoomer46
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anyway back to turbo's,

why do we have a a gay dating ad under this box? :P
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hal9000
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zoomer46
Mar 17 2008, 02:34 PM
anyway back to turbo's,

why do we have a a gay dating ad under this box? :P

I see no such ad... Maybe the advertising company is just showing the most appropriate ad to you based on the cookies and history on your computer.... :rolleyes: :lol:
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zoomer46
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not sure what parsnips have to do with it,
.......i mean i was always different to everyone at my school,and then i eventually realised why,its cos i like women :lol: :D :P


Posted Image
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trans
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See pistons from GAZ (Russia)? Engine #406 and #409, all dimensions like Merc 2,5-16, price in Russia - 40$ for 4 pistons with pins (dia 22 mm). Pistons diametr 95,5, 96 and 96 mm. Rings Buzuluk from chehk repablic, quality is very good, price 40$ for set (4 cyl.).
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dennisbots
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can you give the site from those pistons?
I don't think they are forced one's so not so ideal for turbo or high hp use.

(gaz made cars/jeeps between 1936 and 1953)
i have a feeling this are not high quality pistons ;)
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zoomer46
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good point dennis on the forged pistons,would be no better than standard othewise.

hows the car at the mo,and did you fix the lantern yet?
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Mark216T
Rest In Peace, Mark. You Will Always Be Missed
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I am reading this thread with interest :)

My intention is to add a twin turbo conversion (mosselman style) on a 3.0 or 3,2 converted 190 2.6. I have a great deal of experience with home turbo conversions (albeit Honda) and I'm reasonably handy with a welder.......


Hopefully I will get to grips with this fairly quickly but I have a lot more reading to do first :D


Mark
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geoff911
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Look forward to seeing pics of your project Mark,this is someting Id love to do too.I wanted to try and keep things simple using the standard/uprated injection system at first.Im hoping using the kjet would achieve 250bhp.Not ideal,efi obviously much better


Geoff
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Mark216T
Rest In Peace, Mark. You Will Always Be Missed
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geoff911
Mar 24 2008, 11:11 AM
Look forward to seeing pics of your project Mark,this is someting Id love to do too.I wanted to try and keep things simple using the standard/uprated injection system at first.Im hoping using the kjet would achieve 250bhp.Not ideal,efi obviously much better


Geoff


When we did Vins mosselman C180 we added an MF2 5th injector system to supply the required fuelling under boost. The supplied Vortech FMU (boost dependant FPR) just wasn't up to the job.

This worked quite well and its pretty easy to set up. It uses a MAP sensor to detect boost and then supplies a preprogrammed amount fo fuel based on MAP values


This gived you KJet with EFi backup :)


Mark
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dennisbots
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I should not go with the extra injector.
Don't forget the ignition timing here.
From the builds i have seen they all go to EFI true time.
Most with a lot of engine damage because they could not back up the timing under boost and when you start on the enrichment of the Kjet you better now what you are doing and even then it is not a very handy or precise system to add your fuel.
Spec if you are addictive to speed or tuning use a EFI system because you will need it at some point.

@ zoomer46
My car is doing slow.
The engine is out and apart so now i am waiting for parts for the engine.
The damage is not fixed jet i still need to speak to the painter about that.
I post some picture's on the forum when i have some.
Now im in the middle of thinking what kind of clutch i want and what kind of turbo.
Probably a holset hx40 turbo and a 3x sinter plated Sachs racing clutch.
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Mark216T
Rest In Peace, Mark. You Will Always Be Missed
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dennisbots
Mar 25 2008, 04:23 PM
I should not go with the extra injector.
Don't forget the ignition timing here.
From the builds i have seen they all go to EFI true time.
Most with a lot of engine damage because they could not back up the timing under boost and when you start on the enrichment of the Kjet you better now what you are doing and even then it is not a very handy or precise system to add your fuel.
Spec if you are addictive to speed or tuning use a EFI system because you will need it at some point.


I appreciate the words of experience - I have non with MB turbos with the notable exception of vins car. However I have built loads of Honda turbos including some very exceptional performers and EFi in general holds no fears for me :)
I have built some of the quicker FWD cars in the country and quite a few TOTB contenders. I won Redlines FWD 0-60 shootout a few years ago with my black car and TOTB FWD shootout about 3 years ago - honestly I do understand turbos.
I fully understand ignition timing under boost and I'm currently looking to see if an MSD BTM box could be used on the MB system - again a lot to learn:)

If Kjet can deal with the nasp portion of the boost table - then ERL or similar mappable injector driver will be able to accommodate the boost area. Vins used a pair of Sirrea Cossie injectors and a seperate standalone map sensor IIRC. This way the MAS supplies the fuel required when not in boost, once boosed is sensed the MF2 adds fuel as required. I own several widebands and getting fuelling spot on shouldnt be too much of a headache.

If all else fails I can move to a standalone such as Omex or similar :)



Mark
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dennisbots
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I'm not that experienced but i just wanted to tell you my opinion and that is start with the right parts to save time money and it's better for you hart haha.
But seeing your knowledge i think/hope this is going to work.
I like to see how far the kjet takes you.
What is your hp or time track goal?
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zoomer46
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mark, you are a most welcome edition to this turbo malarky!

sounds like you have the biggest headstart in all this,most of us are kerbside autos in all honesty.

btw ,do you have experience in making alloy turbo plenums too? and also fabing exhaust manifolds?

dennisbots,if you have some of the latest pics ,i would like to see them.
i saw some on the rev of the damage.
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trans
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to dennis.

Now GAZ made Volga and Gazel with engine ZMZ-405 and ZMZ-409. couse this cars is very popular, ~5-8pistons manufactures in Russia. Problem for gays from this site - all sites about this pistons - in Russian only!! (I from ex-USSR). for exmpl:
http://www.motordetal.ru/goods/div9/div20/101.html
http://www.2resurs.ru/novelties/39
http://www.2resurs.ru/price

For example:
Наименование Поршень с антифрикционным покрытием, палец, стопорные и поршневые кольца к-т "ЗОЛОТАЯ СЕРИЯ"
Конструкторский номер 405.1004018-100-АР
Комплектность на автомобиль 4
Сертификация необязательна
Вес 0.63 кг
Упаковка есть
Применяемость на автомобиль ГАЗ
УАЗ
Применяемость на двигатель 406.10 и модификации
Производитель ЗМЗ
Цена 445.19 руб.

translation:
piston with antifriction coating with pin, rings. Set for 1 cyl. - price 445 Rubles (USD 18-20)
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