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| 2.3 16 Exhaust Manifold Crack; best way to fix? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mon Jan 7, 2008 3:15 pm (1,192 Views) | |
| Enthusiast | Mon Jan 7, 2008 3:15 pm Post #1 |
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Hi My car has a growing crack on the exhaust manifold. This must happen all the time - repair or replace with OEM part? I know welding it is difficult anyone know anywhere that has done this? Many thanks |
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| Big Ben | Mon Jan 7, 2008 3:20 pm Post #2 |
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Sneaky 2.5-16 Driver!
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Find a descent sheet metal work shop with the right TIG equipment and and rods and its not too hard to weld. The problem comes with heat treating after! The whole manifold should be heated and tempered to reduce any stresses caused by the welding! However, I seem to recall that someone has one for sale! |
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| Will | Mon Jan 7, 2008 7:31 pm Post #3 |
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Just replace it. These used to be mega bucks, £1100+ VAT new. The original design was flawed, the supports where the welds are near where it bolts to the head weren't strong enough leading to the crack that you mention, normally on cylinder 2 or 3. New type has larger supports and normally doesn't crack. If you search around for someone breaking one you should be able to pick one up for under £100 now, if you're lucky, much less. Have you got a picture of the manifold/crack out of interest? Worth checking the engine mounts as well, these can sometimes be the route of the problem If you really can't find a replacement one, as BB says, you can get it repaired, but bearing in mind the cost and convenience of a replacement (the improved type), I'd be more inclined to go that route Good luck, Will |
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| Enthusiast | Tue Jan 8, 2008 11:52 am Post #4 |
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Thanks guys Will - will post a picture soon the car is not near me at the moment. YEs it is on cyl 2 and 3 so common fault. Big Ben - who has one for sale too many post for me to track now and is it the latter type as Will describes? Roger |
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| Robert Hall | Tue Jan 8, 2008 2:18 pm Post #5 |
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I have one for sale m8. Where abouts are you in the country as it's fairly weighty to post. I am in Milton Keynes if your interested drop me a pm. |
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| Enthusiast | Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:27 pm Post #6 |
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Robert's manifold is now on the car - many thanks Robert will buy you a pint next time! I've heard that it took a while to fit - the bolts were quite rusty and I've been told it was a "tough job". Before I get the bill how long should it take? I'm guessing 3-4 hours including tea? Please let me know since collecting the car tomorrow. |
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| Will | Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:21 pm Post #7 |
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It's bad enough removing the manifold when the head is off the car, pretty fiddley! If a few of the nuts were rusty or damaged, could be a real awkward job. Could be anything from a couple of hours to a long day's work at a guess. Will |
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| cossie connoisseur | Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:22 pm Post #8 |
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there can be only one ;-)
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it looks an easy job, expecially if you have the right equipment but it so aint
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| Will | Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:39 pm Post #9 |
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From memory, it was a case of a 1/4" drive snap-on socket set, several mini spanners, flexable head ratcheting spanners, lots of penetrating oil and patience! :lol: Will |
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| Enthusiast | Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:42 pm Post #10 |
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thanks so could be in for 6 hours! just seen the picture on your footer Will looks quite tight in there for leverage! |
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| cossie connoisseur | Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:46 pm Post #11 |
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there can be only one ;-)
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theres about half an inch between the manifold and heat shield. what i would do is remove the water bottles and heat shield, twist an existing spanner to fit into the hole and dtach the downpipes. You should be able to access it then and undo |
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| Lewis 190E 2.5 16 | Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:47 pm Post #12 |
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Yes, its too tight! Im going to do my manifold bolts in a few weeks, Im going to order all the bolts from the stealers and unbolt the old ones and replace with new ones... Hopefully, it wont be too painful getting them off... But yes, i wouldnt like to remove the manifold... |
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| Enthusiast | Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:58 pm Post #13 |
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good luck with it then lewis no workshop or time presently if I was doing it myself could justify ceramic coating - was £150 or so including collection and delivery 3wks. http://www.camcoat.u-net.com/Exhausts.htm looks good and you can sort of justify as a performance mod (or perhaps cabin aircon!).. makes the extract of hot faster by not getting hot and something nice look nicer... |
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| Will | Mon Jan 28, 2008 11:05 pm Post #14 |
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Lewis, They're studs, not bolts. Might as well replace all of the nuts, but I think if the studs are not damaged you might as well keep them, IMHO They're a little bit more expensive than you might think. Will |
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| cossie connoisseur | Mon Jan 28, 2008 11:14 pm Post #15 |
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there can be only one ;-)
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yeah the bolts, nuts ect on my car came to over a hundred pound during my rebuild and that was with a decent discount changing the studs is a good idea tbh and its coper nuts with coper washers |
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| Rich27 | Mon Jan 28, 2008 11:40 pm Post #16 |
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Lewis. Unless its leaking between the block and the manifold or cracked I would leave it on. If it aint broke. . . I had a Compleate P take with my first 205 GTI when I bust the manifold (common problem) and again on my second when I changed to a full Magnex SS system including the manifold. Though I did sell it on Ebay for £40 as iut was OK but the Magnex system was fantastic. |
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| Lewis 190E 2.5 16 | Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:51 am Post #17 |
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Sorry, meant studs/nuts etc... Yes, they will need doing sometime as they just let the engine bay down, i've just replaced a few bits in the engine bay, and by changing the nuts will make a huge difference.... I may just do the top ones for now as they are easy and leave the bottom ones for the summer... |
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| Enthusiast | Tue Jan 29, 2008 4:56 pm Post #18 |
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bu99er 5 hours including getting Mot is the old manifold worth hanging onto? |
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9:28 AM Jul 11