Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Photobucket
Welcome to Mercedes-190.co.uk

We are the Mercedes 190 owners forum, the place to be for all owners and fans of the Mercedes 190E, 190 and 190D cars. Including Cosworth (2.3 16v and 2.5 16v), EVO 1 and EVO 2 models. Modified and concourse, track cars and daily drivers, all are welcome.

This free UK based forum was started back in November 2005 to serve the Mercedes 190 W201 community and now has over 9000 members from all around the world and 600,000 + posts.

The members welcome you and encourage you to stay a while and have a look around.
We offer you friendly chat and access to some very useful information as well as tutorials with photos and videos for many common repair and maintenance jobs.
Whatever your needs there is a good chance you will be able to find what your looking for. Such as our Mercedes 190 buyers guide

Sign up to gain access to all areas including for sale / classified areas and country wide meetings and events. Many forum features and sections are only available once you sign up.

Join our forum at mercedes-190.co.uk!

If you're already a member please log in to your account:

**New members signing up**
please check your junk mail for the email authorization email
otherwise we cannot verify your new account.
I have noticed a lot of unauthorized accounts in the system.
Regards
Admin

Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Mercedes-benz W201 Buyers Guide
Topic Started: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:38 pm (56,278 Views)
Lewis 190E 2.5 16
Member Avatar
W201
[ *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Buying guide for W201 190/190E models 1.8, 2.0 8v, 2.6 12v, 190d 2.0, 2.5 and 2.3/2.5 16v

**VIN CHECK NOTE: IF YOUR CAR COMES UP AS AN AUSTRALIA MODEL WHEN USING AN ONLINE VIN CHECKER OR EPC, THIS IS A QUIRK IN THE SYSTEM AND DOESN'T MEAN IT'S A RARE VERSION. DON'T BE FOOLED BY A SELLER OR DEALER TRYING TO CLAIM IT'S A RARE AUSTRALIA MODEL**

Bodywork/structural

•Jacking points are a common place to rust, try and get a good look under the car to see if any welding to the front and rear jacking points is needed.
•The boot floor and Boot wells rust here, to check for rust open the boot and get a good look under the spare wheel area, also pull the plastic boot well liners out to see if any welding is needed in the boot well area as these tend to rust because of water sitting in these areas.
•Check the rubber around the boot lock and check the drainage pipes from the sunroof as these disconnect causing water to leak from the rear down into the boot where the water collects in the boot wells.
•If the car you’re buying has a body kit (for example a 16v body kit or AMG etc) try and get a good look around the tops of the arches and inside the lip of the arch and feel for rust and check the general condition of the bottom wings.
•Chrome fender covers are rust hiders and can cause more damage as they trap dirt and water which will erode the arch, make sure there is no rust present on the arches or any bubbles forming.
•Try and get a good look at the inner wings and check all brake pipes and fuel lines for any rust.
•Check all the windscreen seals as these tend to let water in so May need changing.
•It is also a good idea to check the condition of the sunroof seal as water can get if the seal has perished.
•Check for any dings and scraps in the bodywork.
•Check below the rear windscreen as this is a place where rust is found, check for any excessive corrosion.
•Check around the electric aerial. For any rust
•C pillar vents can leak into the boot wells.
•Check around the rear number plate fixing bolts for rust.
•Check around the rear clusters for rust bubbles.
•If a rear spoiler is fitted, check around the bolt holes for rust bubbles.
•SLS check the pipes the run under the car for leaks and check the bottle under the bonnet has fluid in it.
•Also check around the SLS engine pump for leaks...
•Check the shocks are not leaking and make sure there is no knocking as this can be the bushes in the bottom of the shocks/rams...
•Rust underneath the washer reservoir and radiator overflow.
•Check the battery tray for rust/rot...
•Check all the body panels line up correctly and make sure there is an equal amount of gap in each panel.

Drivetrain

•Listen out for any whines in the diff or strange noises.
•Listen out for any knocks from the Drivetrain; this could be the prop discs that need changing.
•Auto box: Smooth gear changes, no knocks or rattles, should change up and down fine S=standard E=Economy
•Manual box= Known to be notchy but should change gear without force, linkages and bushes are known to need changing to sharpen the gear change, this also goes for the close ratio gearbox (getrag) found in the 16v.
•There should be no strange noises or vibrations within the Drivetrain.
•Clunks when switching from forward to reverse gears. Could be flex disc or diff.
•Make sure all the shift points are correct, if not this could be the kick down cable or switch.

Mechanical

•Idle for a 190/190E 1.8-2.0 8v and 2.6 12v 190d 2.0, 2.5 autos should be around 700-800rpm; it should be constant at this and should not be a lumpy tick over.
•For a 16v manual it is around 900-1000rpm tick over, these engines do have a slight rattle known as “cam clutter” listen out on start up from cold if there are any excessive rattle as this could mean the timing chain may need changing.
•Check that the car has been maintained and that the gearbox oil and engine have been changed on a regular basis.
•There should be no hesitations and should pull fine all the way up to redline.
•If the car is not idling correctly this could be a number of thing, IACV (idle air control valve) is a common fault and check for any vacuum/air leaks in the rubber hoses around the injection system.
•On ignition you should he the fuel pump prime, make sure the fuel filter has also been changed within the service history.
•For diesels, if the glow plug light remains OFF when you turn the key to acc position and comes on for 10 seconds or so after you start the engine, this is the control unit telling you at least one glow plug is faulty. They are cheap to replace but 2 of them are very awkward to get to.
•Check for cracks in the plastic thermostat cover.
•If the car has a CAT check for any rattling sound when the car is revved, just sounds all clogged up and car will feel down on power...
•Make sure the fan kicks in at 92C if this does not or its always engaged check the sender…

Handling/suspension

•16 valve: The ride shouldn’t be too firm and shouldn’t bounce, the ride height at the rear should be a few inches from the arch to the tyre, if it sitting too low then there could be a leak in the lines and if its sitting too high then the accumulators may need changing or the valves.
•Sportlines: sit 22mm lower than standard 190/190E’s should be quite firm and handle well on the road.
•190/190E general: Check all the shocks for any leaks and check all springs as they are known to snap make sure there are no knocks coming from the rear of the car.
•Sportlines and 16v’s also have quicker ratio steering boxes, make sue none of the power steering components are not leaking
•Check all ball joints and track rod ends
•Check all springs they are known to snap and make sure the rears are not sagging.
•Make sure thereare no leaks in the ASD or SLS lines if the car is equipped with this, make sure there are also no leaks around the pump area.

Interior

•The condition of the interior should co inside with the mileage, check everything works, the sunroof should slide back and forth fine, is it doesn’t this could be a cog in the motor has stripped or a snapped sunroof cable which draws the sunroof back n forth.
•Check all electric windows work, if there are electric windows check they work, a common fault for these is that they stop working due to breaks in the wire between the pillar and the door also damp and water damage could stop the motors from working.
•16valve: check the lap timer a common problem is that the screen bleeds. Also check OTG in the dash (outside temperature gauge also suffers the same problem).
•Check door cards as these tend to lift away at the top. (These at the rear also suffer water damage if the rain sheet has been removed)
•Check the dashboard for any cracks.
•Check all round the visor area vinyl roof panel for dampness, discolouration and sagging. This suggests a leaking sunroof. Due to the drain arrangement in these cars its possible for them to leak water all down the back of the a pillar covers for years without detection. You may never see any water but the car will always be humid and gradually rotting the carpets.
•The central vents blow fresh air in from outside, don’t let this put you off as it was designed that way, the left and right side vents are the vents that blow warm air.
•When ignition is on make sure that the oil pressure gauge does not move as the engine is not running if it does this suggests a faulty sender or plug on the back of the clocks, the oil pressure gauge should only move when the engine is running.
•To adjust the clock push the right needle in and turn at the same time to will allow you to adjust the clock.
•To reset the trip meter (only whilst at stand still, do not to this in motion) push the left side needle in…
Edited by Matt, Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:33 pm.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
yoserian
Newbie
[ * ]
Hi
i am a new memeber and thinking of buying a 1991, 2.3 190 manuel. does anyone have any idea as far as what is the average MPG of the car?
regards
Adam
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
cossie connoisseur
Member Avatar
there can be only one ;-)
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
the petrol cars are around the 30mpg mark, tbh it varies because they are all over 15 years old so economy will vary slightly from car to car
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
twopointsix
Addicted
[ *  *  *  * ]
Lewis's buyer's guide is extremely useful and informative, so a very belated hats off to Lewis for that.

Having owned six 190s and crawled inside/outside/underneath all of them, I feel I am now fairly well qualified to write a specific guide to rust areas on a 190. I've already written at least half a dozen articles for the M-B Club magazine (The Gazette) and having spoken to the editor yesterday (himself a long-term 190 owner), he would be happy to publish an article from me on this subject. I plan to aim this at potential, new AND existing owners. I'm sure that those who have restored 190s won't learn very much, but not all 190 drivers are keen enthusiasts and may find that, having read the article, it might encourage them to pay a bit more attention to their own cars. I have a 190-owning neighbour who fits this latter description exactly!

I would like to add some photographs from 190 owners' cars showing rust areas they have encountered (especially the grizzly ones!), repairs carried out etc. I can take photos of my own cars for illustration but any rust areas have been well and truly sorted and I never thought to take photos as I went along.

If anyone can submit their horror story photos to this post, I would be very grateful. Sadly, I can't promise that all those who do will receive a copy of the relevant Gazette when the article is published, but I will post on here when it is, with contact details of how to get a copy. M-B Club members automatically receive a copy of the Gazette as part of the membership package. I will, of course, credit the Mercedes190 forum in the article, obviously.

If any members wish to e-mail me their photos, please PM me for my e-mail address.

I should add that all articles submitted to the Gazette by members are done so on a purely voluntary basis - much like this forum.

Many thanks in anticipation.

Steve
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Mork
Member Avatar
Part of things
[ *  * ]
Hi,

I'm new to this site and have recently been thinking of buying a 190e as a daily driver. I've heard that they are one of the best Mercedes ever built, would you say it's true? Have read the buyers guide, looks pretty standard for most cars of this age, rust being the big problem on old cars. I've seen a 1989 2.6 (16V?) manual (4 or 5 speed?) for sale, been in the same family for 18 years, serviced regularly, got 12 months MOT (with no advisories) and 12 months tax, 105k, looks nice in the photos. Said it has been dry-garaged all of it's life and only done minimal mileage due to being owned by an elderly couple. A bit of rust forming on the wheel arches and the aerial needs replacing. Haven't looked at it yet, but they're asking £950 for it. Obviously you usually get what you pay for, but the main reason for looking to buy is to have something reliable that doesn't cost a fortune to run.
Does this sound expensive/cheap to you guys?
I have another 20yr old car that I bought as a project/weekend car, so don't want to end up with another that continually needs bits replacing on it, especially as it's a daily car. Any help/advice is appreciated.

P.S. Saw another one, 2.6 auto, 1992, 158k, had lowered Bilstein shocks, all sorts of other bits done recently, 6 owners, Beryl blue, Lossiter alloys? Some rare steering wheel. Looks awesome (better than the other one), but the mileage put me off, especially as it's an auto. It was £1000. Are the auto boxes durable, or do they need rebuilding after certain mileage? This one could do with new front discs & pads and gearbox doughnuts?? Is that the prop absorbers?

Many thanks in advance for any help. Much appreciated!!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy
Member Avatar
Too Far Gone To Help
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Hi & welcome .

Rust forming on the arches is indicative of having come from the inner edge . £950 does sound cheap though .
All 16V's are 5 speed Getrags with dog-leg first .

That beryl blue car , is it in Cambridge ? if it is , it's quite a nice one . The wheels are Lorinsers BTW . Auto's can go on forever treated properly , they have built gazillions of them after all . The do-nuts are on the propshaft and do go after long intervals , there are two on a 2,6 . BTW the 6 cyls have a deserved reputation for massive mileages , transmissions rarely fail , if they do just flip in another 'box , cheap as chips to buy from a scrapper or a member breaking a car .

Jeremy
Edited by jeremy, Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:45 pm.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Mork
Member Avatar
Part of things
[ *  * ]
Yeah, it's in Cambridge. Bidding ended with no bids, was seriously thinking about phoning him and arange a viewing, go with some cash, you never know! It's had a fair amount of parts replaced over the last 18 months, which is a good thing I guess. No rust, just needs those couple of things, otherwise looks superb.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
bolide
Bolide
[ *  * ]
The problems I've had with 190Es over the last couple of years are:

* worn/cracked front suspension top mounts
* bad rear wheel bearings
* noisy diffs (nothing new there, then!)
* rusty and/or broken springs
* peeling door cards
* collapsed engine mounts (bigger engines in particular)

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
merc190uk
Member Avatar
The Godfather

twopointsix
Tue Sep 8, 2009 10:30 am
Lewis's buyer's guide is extremely useful and informative, so a very belated hats off to Lewis for that.

Having owned six 190s and crawled inside/outside/underneath all of them, I feel I am now fairly well qualified to write a specific guide to rust areas on a 190. I've already written at least half a dozen articles for the M-B Club magazine (The Gazette) and having spoken to the editor yesterday (himself a long-term 190 owner), he would be happy to publish an article from me on this subject. I plan to aim this at potential, new AND existing owners. I'm sure that those who have restored 190s won't learn very much, but not all 190 drivers are keen enthusiasts and may find that, having read the article, it might encourage them to pay a bit more attention to their own cars. I have a 190-owning neighbour who fits this latter description exactly!

I would like to add some photographs from 190 owners' cars showing rust areas they have encountered (especially the grizzly ones!), repairs carried out etc. I can take photos of my own cars for illustration but any rust areas have been well and truly sorted and I never thought to take photos as I went along.

If anyone can submit their horror story photos to this post, I would be very grateful. Sadly, I can't promise that all those who do will receive a copy of the relevant Gazette when the article is published, but I will post on here when it is, with contact details of how to get a copy. M-B Club members automatically receive a copy of the Gazette as part of the membership package. I will, of course, credit the Mercedes190 forum in the article, obviously.

If any members wish to e-mail me their photos, please PM me for my e-mail address.

I should add that all articles submitted to the Gazette by members are done so on a purely voluntary basis - much like this forum.

Many thanks in anticipation.

Steve
Did you ever do this article ?

An article with pictures would be great.
Was thinking about collecting images and adding them to the list for reference.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy
Member Avatar
Too Far Gone To Help
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
I am sure it was printed in the Gazette ?


Jeremy
Edited by jeremy, Sun Jan 8, 2012 10:44 am.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Will
Member Avatar
Highly Addicted
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Yep - was definitely in the Gazette a year or so back.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
twopointsix
Addicted
[ *  *  *  * ]
The article was published in the February 2010 issue of the Gazette, with plenty of photographs, some of which were kindly submitted by forum members. Credit was given in the article to the forum. Unfortunately, I can't access the photos any more as they were stored on my old pc, which crashed big time and unfortunately I wasn't able to retrieve them. It may still be possible to purchase a back copy of the relevant Gazette from the Mercedes-Benz Club (telephone Catherine Barlow, Club administrator, on 01780 482111). I dare say there would be a cost involved. Members of the Club will have automatically received their copy free at the time. I'm not sure if permission from the Club would be required to duplicate the article on this forum as there may be copyright issues. I still have my own copy of the February 2010 Gazette. If anyone would like a photocopy, please PM me. For a modest fee (simply to cover photocopying and postage costs) I will be happy to oblige.

Hope this helps

Steve
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
JINXTA
Newbie
[ * ]
Hello,

I currently drive a WRX STI and as much fun as it is due to experience it is not the best car to use for ' track days '. So I had a random thought of what is both a really good car and also able for use on said events.
So instead of doing what the majority of people seem to go for;- s15 or a golf or other common cars, in the back of my mind I had the Cosworth tuned 190e.
My assumption by everything i have read in how they came to be what they are leads me to believe that they are the car that i desire. I've driven a 1992 2.0l Auto and ( my dads ) and i fully believe everything said about that car.

My question is are they as good as they look? I mean both on paper and asthetically!! Looks wise i think they are fantastic but on paper they also seem to be very good yet anyone i talk regarding this car immediately responds that they are not ' that quick '. However they have also never owned one so trying not to pay any attention to those comments and would really appreciate the thoughts from someone who has.

Thanks for reading, Jinx.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Matt
Member Avatar
Administrator - Hawk Eye

"not that quick".... That all depends what they are being classed against. In today's standards probably not, but drive a 16v properly like it was meant to be driven (the full rev range up to the red line) and they are still quick!
In my eyes they always tick the majority of boxes; looks, build quality, power, not common like M3's and others.

Try one, from stand still, floor it all the way to the red line through the gears and I can assure you that it will make you smile. As long as the engine and box are all good and setup right that is.

And don't buy an auto 16v.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
JINXTA
Newbie
[ * ]
Matt, I very much appreciate what you have written/said as that is exactly what i wanted to hear!!!!! Well i just gotta free up some space and then keep my eyes peeled!! I suspected that Richard Hammond was talking rubbish when he said the auto's were the one to go for! I properly like the idea of the getrag box.

Many thanks, Jinx.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
minime
Newbie
[ * ]
hi ive just bought a 190e 1989 with 60500miles drives very nice gear change is good ride is good but the sunroof leaked and has had water damage inside, door card etc also the heater switch inside will only move to about the centre and does not always turn the heater on, is this cable operated and can it be serviced and if so any advice on how would be appreciated thank you fellow 190 drivers :help:
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Patrick Ngau
Newbie
[ * ]
Hi my car temperature will increase after a drive untill coolant water spitting out from the overflow, i have to depends on my aux fans when driving, is this the main fan issue?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
aybracers
Member Avatar
Newbie
[ * ]
Here is a Spec sheet published in Car Choice in March 1993

Posted Image
Edited by Chunk, Tue Nov 28, 2017 10:05 am.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
aybracers
Member Avatar
Newbie
[ * ]
Here is a price list from August 1991

Posted Image
Edited by Chunk, Tue Nov 28, 2017 10:06 am.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Bisonhead
Member Avatar
Bisonhead
[ *  *  * ]
Nice one, thank you interesting reading.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Rio_190e
Newbie
[ * ]
Hey there guys im new to this forum. Just got a 190e 2.5 16v amg. Just looking for any tipa or ideas...
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
KindaichiShota
Newbie
[ * ]
I also have problems these years:

+ Damaged rear wheel bearings
+ Cracked suspension top mounts
+ And ofc, noisy diffs
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Chunk
Member Avatar
Spammer Zapper

KindaichiShota
Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:04 am
I also have problems these years:

+ Damaged rear wheel bearings
+ Cracked suspension top mounts
+ And ofc, noisy diffs
Hi there

None of the jobs are too expensive or troublesome.

Diff is probably the worst and most costly job.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
KindaichiShota
Newbie
[ * ]
Chunk
Tue Nov 28, 2017 7:03 pm
KindaichiShota
Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:04 am
I also have problems these years:

+ Damaged rear wheel bearings
+ Cracked suspension top mounts
+ And ofc, noisy diffs
Hi there

None of the jobs are too expensive or troublesome.

Diff is probably the worst and most costly job.
You are so right, i got each of these problems once a year, but diff is like 3 times the last 6 months :'(
(which makes me start to think its mechanic fault)
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
DealsFor.me - The best sales, coupons, and discounts for you
« Previous Topic · Newbies - & W201 190 Buyers Guide · Next Topic »
Add Reply


Email me if anyone replys