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Disc And Pad Prob; SMOKIN!
Topic Started: Wed May 7, 2008 7:08 pm (218 Views)
panzer
Member
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I changed my front's today without any great difficulty apart from the pistons were a bugger to push back in, resorted to opening the bleed nipple a little and losing a bit of fluid.

Copper greased the backs of the pads as usual. I have done the pads before without probs.

Now the brakes are a bit dopey but would expect that anyway for 100 or so miles.

Problem is they bloody stink and were visibly smokin after a short run.

Any ideas how I could have made a bollix somewhere or am I just overeacting.

Pedal is as firm as usual !
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trev3635
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Well the obvious is you got some oil/brake fluid on the discs, give them a good wipe and should be ok. As for getting the piston in, get a g-clamp, piece of wood and plumbing grips, put the wood across the piston then put the g-clamp one end behind the calliper and the other over the wood and tighten, now get your plumbing grips and put them round the piston cylinder and turn clockwise then screw in your g-clamp and repeat until the piston is fully depressed. B) happy days.

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merc190uk
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Steve

sounds like you have a sticking piston or two.

as for releasing the nipple you prob have air in the system now too.

as in the post above you need to free them off but i would advise against the grips around the piston as this can cause scouring to the piston and damage to the inners.

as for any excess oils, should you have some how got oil on the disks ! then that would have burnt off within mins unless you have put the copper slip on the wrong side of the pads :lol:
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Charles
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Merc 190uk is exactly right!

And if you are wondering why it has happened when you have just put new discs and pads on, it will be because the pistons havent been near their current position for a long time.
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Charles
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I mean it would of been a long time ago when it had new discs and pads on it.
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kentronix
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Admin

Not sure if this is advised or not but I tend to put one pad in and then hold over the disc and twist firmly but slowly until there is room enough for both pads.
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panzer
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merc190uk
May 7 2008, 10:23 PM
sounds like you have a sticking piston or two.

as for releasing the nipple you prob have air in the system now too.

as in the post above you need to free them off but i would advise against the grips around the piston as this can cause scouring to the piston and damage to the inners.

as for any excess oils, should you have some how got oil on the disks ! then that would have burnt off within mins unless you have put the copper slip on the wrong side of the pads  :lol:

Quote:
 


Hey im a bit dim but not that bad :rolleyes:

They seem to have stopped smoking but the pedal was a bit soft first thing this morning so will bleed them this AM.

Cheers fellas !
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Gary_b
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Ava' Banana...
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Just to bump this thread back up.

I bought the car Panzer is talking about off him, and I have recently come across a frightening problem that may be related to this.

I was doing around 65mph on the M53 and had to slow down fast as a lane merger was coming up, once I started to brake I had to fight with the car to keep her in a straight line. I can't say which way it was pulling, but it didn't want to go in a straight line.

I need to understand a bit more about this sticking piston (or two) that was suggested above? How many pistons does the standerd 190e caliper have?

With the above posts still in mind can anyone else help diagnose the problem?

Panzer, did you sort out your brake problem in the end?

I need to sort this out ASAP as I'll have my family in the car over xmas, and I'd rather not anything happen to them or me.
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Gary_b
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Ava' Banana...
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If it is a piston sticking will I need new calipers?
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howard35
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I have read somewhere that if the flexible brake hoses to the calipers get old, they can get a bit spongy, close up inside, and act as a one-way valve - holding a bit of pressure in the calpier, and cuasing the pads to drag

Just a thought ...
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NEIL
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Gary_b
Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:07 pm
How many pistons does the standerd 190e caliper have?

Two, opposing each other - one for each pad.

If it is a piston sticking will I need new calipers?

Yes, the caliper must be rebuilt.
You can attempt this yourself by buying the parts, or you can do what I did which was to take my old caliper (in this case a standard Rear) to Euro Car Parts, and part-exchange it for a freshly rebuilt complete unit. From memory, your old caliper saves you about £30 off the cost of the new one. Thy operate a recycling scheme, and rebuild them in-house.

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HTH :)
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Gary_b
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Ava' Banana...
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Ahh, right. Thanks Neil :)

I think first things first then. I'll renew the brake fluid and hope there is a bubble in the line somewhere i can get rid of! Otherwise I'm fucked lol, the missus will kill me if she finds me buying new calipers!
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NEIL
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Mate, brakes are not to be skimped on, she'll understand!
Before wasting time and money on Fluid replacement, take the wheels off and look at the Pads to see if any are sticking against the Disc ;) If you can, get a friend to operate the Brake Pedal whilst you watch the Pads on the Disc.
This will likely indicate whether you have a seized Caliper.
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Gary_b
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Ava' Banana...
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Thanks for the info re:EuroCarParts. I've just spoken to them, and a new caliper will cost me 20 quid: with my old one traded in :) Which is better then the 58 quid they want for a new one. Top banana!
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