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Dummys guide to changing an exhaust; this particular example is on a 2.5-16v
Topic Started: Sat Aug 9, 2008 4:10 pm (1,006 Views)
cossie connoisseur
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there can be only one ;-)
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This is a post in progress so watch this space, i was going to do it today but the weather is terrible.

Bits so far......

The car;
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The exhaust;
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The rings;
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The clamp;

To come ( will buy on the day )

The tools;

Here is a selection of the tools i used, will line up the ones i used later but generally i only needed a 12 and 13 mm spanner and extender!
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Step 1
I decided to spray the exhaust with high temp paint to make it stay new looking for longer....im like that but it keeps the appearance of the car up
Ive left the labels intact though so yes i am completely anal about this car lol
Also make sure you take care on the exhaust tip because at the end of the day they are the only bits of the exhaust most people will see.

Step 2

Make sure you have everything to start with though im buying a clamp and rubbers when i get the old ones off (if they need replacing)

step 3

The down pipes are a pain so you need maximum clearance when doing this job, undoing them is ok but you need the height to slide them out! i put the rear of the car on ramps and the front on axle stands. The car is quite sturdy and means i can approach the exhaust from any angle i like.
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step 4
You need to remove the 4 bolts which is quite easy with 3 of them but the fourth needed an extender bar to get onto the nut due to a turn in the exhaust pipe. The bolts are 13mm and the nuts are 12mm. Once the bolts are. removed then slip the rings back and you might get luck in seperating the exhaust here, i was not so removed in one
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step 5

Take the rubbers of the backbox, this leaves the exhaust hanging by the middle rubber only. I had a couple of problems with the exhaust so could not separate it. As a result i was going to have to remove it in one piece.
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step 6

You remove the 4 manifold bolts with a long extender, they are 13mm and are quite easy to remove (for a car with 16k on the clock). you then take off the bracket but be warned the m shaped piece broke on me so i need a new one
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(pic to follow)

step 7

Hammer with a metal rod the exposed flange of the downpipes, this will allow them to slip out of their socket and free the exhaust system, it does not need much force and when one poped out the other one did as well . This will leave the exhaust balancing on the middle rubber only and it hung their without staining too much. You can then slip your body back and get ready for the next step.

step 8

Remove the middle rubber and remove exhaust system from the car, it slides out quite easy but take care not to let the downpipes fall onto the steering box heat shield as that will cause some damage. The time this took me was about an hour, obviously removing in one is quicker than in the 3 sections but i did not have much of a choice.
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step 9

Seperate the system and take out the rubber stop, o ring piece, rubbers and stick it in some vinegar. Use a pair of pliers to put the rubber stop ont the new system. The o ring piece is only £3 from MB but the old one is fine, though will give it a spray later on.
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Edited by cossie connoisseur, Sun Aug 10, 2008 4:48 pm.
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cossie connoisseur
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there can be only one ;-)
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in between the exhaust change ive decided to clean the underside. Heres a couple of snaps so far...

The brown stuff is the old waxoil, makes the underside look dirty but im taking it off tomorow and going over her with a fresh coat as its about time. I also noticed a couple of areas that need a wire brush.

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RE ASSEMBLY

Step 1

The first thing i did was lay everything out together and did a trial fit, saves any issues later on. I looked at the russian diagram and made sure everything was present

Step 2

Place the downpipes under the car in a position so that they can be lifted into place, you then take the middle system and attach to the front system. Its really easy, all you need to do is to aply some exhaust paste first around the flanges then aply some copper grease to the bolts. It does not matter wich way the rings go as there is ample space to tighten them up. The carbon ring had an angled edge on and this is what needs to go into the exhaust first so that it is a snug fit, apply sone exhaust paste to stop it from falling out. You then put on the bolts making sure you tighten them slowly and evenly otherwise it will twist.
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Step 3

put the middle system on its rubber and use that as a pivot to lift the down pipes into position. Due to the shape of the downpipes they will want to wist so i used an axle stand to keep it straight then attached the bracket with some slack so i had the flexability to adjust the downpipes.

Step 4

This is the worst bit, attaching the manifold bolts..... it was a shocker!!!!

i used every extension i had and i just managed it, the order i did it in was to do one bolt in each pipe and twist the coupling ring so the holes lined up. you tighten them slowly and look down into the engine bay and make sure they are not going in at an angle. If you cross thread one of these you will really be up against it!!!
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Step 5

put the back box on, you will need some exhaust paste on where it will go and make sure you put lots on! You then put the rubbers on which are easier to put on then take off, and the lastly put the clamp on and make sure it is as tight as possible

Step 6

check the system and spray black any marks or paste you can see, pull on the rubbers and make sure there is clearence so you get no rubbing on her.

Step 7

Start the engine and check for leaks, i find it best if someone puts their hands over the tail pipes so it increases the pressure so you can hear any leaks better.

Step 8

Have a beer.....

Pics of completed exhaust

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Edited by cossie connoisseur, Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:13 pm.
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hitenb
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How much did the full exhaust set you back?
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cossie connoisseur
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there can be only one ;-)
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down pipes cost me £413 delivered, MB cost nearly £800
middle exhaust cost me £56 delivered, MB cost £280
Backbox cost me £137 delivered, MB cost £300

All parts are genuine MB components, i just got lucky really


Old exhaust is off, will give the underside a wash then a bit of waxoil.

was not too bad getting it off, took about an hour!
Edited by cossie connoisseur, Sun Aug 10, 2008 2:17 pm.
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hitenb
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Wow.. thats not bad at all. I appreciate the need to keep the car in imacculate condition, you could consider it as a long term investment too. I think the weather today is slightly better, so that may allow you to get some work done on the car. Do you always store your cars outdoors?

1 hour getting it off isnt bad at all! Nice work!
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cossie connoisseur
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there can be only one ;-)
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the black one and auto get storaged, the manual is out though after it has a respray....when i get round to it, its gana need protection
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cossie connoisseur
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there can be only one ;-)
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its done but i would not recomend you do it!

dont know weather to bother finishing this as ive not had much interest, i guess people just use a garage for this sort of job ^o)

looks good now its all done :$
Edited by cossie connoisseur, Mon Aug 11, 2008 5:27 pm.
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Neil
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Nick, of course we're interested!
Just waiting for you to crack on, get it finished and more pics posted!
:D
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RM Merc 190
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I've been reading it - I know what a bugger they are - I took one off a 120k car, now that was a bitch.
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cossie connoisseur
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there can be only one ;-)
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right done.

Next topic will be underside valeting and tips as its got a bit dirty over the last 12 months lol
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hitenb
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Its good stuff.. always appreciated :)
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Sev
I am a big Twat
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the easiest, lowest impact way to clean the undercarriage is to use a 2500psi pressure washer.

other than that, why go with stock parts for this exhaust? why not custom piping past the o2 sensor?
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Neil
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^Cos this particular Blue-Black car is Nick's standard-spec Concours entrant ;)
I believe his Almandine Manual has something altogether more fruity...
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Big Ben
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Sneaky 2.5-16 Driver!
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No O2 sensor either!! :D
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