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Work/repairs on 16V from 142,000 miles; Latest update @ 195,500 miles
Topic Started: Tue Sep 30, 2008 4:12 pm (2,469 Views)
Johnboy Mac
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I was just recapping on what work/repairs I carried out on my 2.5-16 since purchase. Would it be helpful to post details for anybody considering buying a similar car?
Edited by Johnboy Mac, Tue Sep 30, 2008 11:38 pm.
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Matt
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Carry on fella. Would be interesting to see.
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Johnboy Mac
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Here go's.

2.5-16 '91 non cat (204bhp) manual. A/con,Electric seats with o/s memory,MB alarm,OTG & Illuminated vanity mirrors.
3 owners.
F/MB/S/H to 103k in '00 and patchy history up 134k in '05
(but had f/pump,injectors,alternator,battery,track rod ends,n/s driveshaft,various engine switches & sensors replaced in that 31k period)
All invoices,full stamped service book and MOT's supplied.

Purchased June '06 @142k. :driver:

WORK CARRIED OUT:

July '06 @143k

Cyl.head o/haul,timing chain,Tensioners & guides,w/pump,drive belt,thermostat,KE metering head,clutch,general service ( + all fluids).

From Aug '07 @ 152k - Dec '08 @ 168k :'(

BODY:

1. Replace o/s/f wing - rust behind plastic trim panel
2. Repair n/s/f panel corner
3. Repair n/s & o/s/r 1/4 panels - around wheel arches & at panel clip holes
4. Repair n/s/f wing - at panel clip holes
5. Repair all jacking points
6. Repair n/s/r door - at panel clip holes
7. Repair n/s/r lamp mounting - rust casusing water ingress
8. Cleaned & painted (hammerite) battery tray

SUSPENSION:

1. Replace o/s lower wishbone
2. Replace 6 x cam/castor bolts
3. Replace front anti roll bar bushes
4. Replace rear anti roll bar bushes
5. Replace rear subframe bushes x 4
6. Replace rear lower arms inner & outer bushes
7. Replace front shocks
8. Replace front springs
9. Replace top mounts
10. Renewed SLS fluid
11. Dropped rear suspension (via SLS) 5-7mm

DRIVETRAIN:

1. Replace propshaft carrier bearing assy.
2. Replace 2 x prop. couplings


GEARBOX:

1. Replace complete gear linkage assy (bar link rods & gear lever)
2. Replace mounting.
3. Replace clutch master & slave cyl's.

STEERING:

1. Replace damper
2. Relace drag link.

EXHAUST:

1. Replace rear box
2. Replace centre box

BRAKES:

1. Replace o/s/f ABS sensor
2. Front & rear pads.

ENGINE:

1. Replace both engine mounts
2. Replace oil cooler thermostat & cleaned out oil lines & cooler
3. Shim valves (again)
4. Replace I.C.V. & rubber mounting.
5. Replace throttle potentiometer
6. Replace coil
7. Backed flushed heater matrix
8. Replaced Throttle cable
9. Replaced Inlet air temp.sensor
10. Replaced F/pump & O.V.P relays & Eng. fan switch (all precaution only)
11. Fitted non A/con belt
12. Repalced Eng. damper
13. Replaced SLS/ASD pump seal.

EXTERIOR:

1. Removed wiper assy. cleaned & lubricated

INTERIOR:

1. Replace gear lever knob/gaitor
2. Replace heater illumination bulbs (all)
3. Fitted genuine Mercedes-Benz Audio 10 stereo/cd (Becker)


Items that possibility need attention: :'(
Rear wheel bearings,o/s driveshaft, exhaust downpipe,rear springs,water leak into boot(suspect rear screeen seal perished),g/box bearings noisy,diff noisy,slight noise from p.a.s on o/s full lock.Front screen,bonnet & front bumper badly chipped. Alarm inop on boot,ign.switch & brake pedal,air con inop. & lap timer bleeding. Plus a rattle from o/s/r door requires attention.

Modified parts fitted: :D
Momo 350mm st.wheel with OMP spacer adjuster (24-54mm) and eccentric adjuster, 8jx16 Evo1 alloys (including correct & genuine long wheel bolts) & 225/45/16 tyres,H&R front springs (-20mm) & Bilstein B6 front shocks,Deleted front exhaust box,K&N air filter on modified/shortened original filter housing. Xenon h/lamp bulbs.

Parts replaced due to damage: :(
O/s headlamp glass,grill star & n/s track rod end & throttle cable

Service items replaced/attended to:
Eng.oil & filter x 6, fuel filter,plugs x 8, plug leads,dist.cap & rotor,oil cap,brake pads fr & rear,tyres x 8 & 4x4 wh. alignment twice ,p.a.s. oil filter & oil,all wiper blades, eng. coolant change (plus Water Wetter),h/lamp alignment,diff.oil change & asd oil change,handbrake shoes.


Items replaced in error!!! :'(
Rear ABS/ASD sensor, brake light switch.

Items under consideration(longterm) : :) :) :)
Larger front calipers & discs, steel braided brake hoses, higher gear ratios for st.box (one off made to order -expensive!),electric fan, EFI, custom modified driver's seat, shift light, underbody strip and repaint and modified eng.oil cooler with drain plug.


I hope this will assist anybody considering buying a high mileage 2.5-16. Any questions don't hesitate to ask. JOHN.

Edited by Johnboy Mac, Wed Jun 2, 2010 8:22 pm.
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jayw
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:faint: Blimey,you trying to put me off buying one :)
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Johnboy Mac
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No jayw, but it gives you a good idea what to look out for and may end up saving you some hard earned dosh!
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JensonGB
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that pretty much sums up the work i've done on the 2.3 16v (as mentioned in an earlier thread) expect mine needed a complete engine. Labour of love these cars and tbh i always thought Cossie Con was exaggerating with his warning about how much the cars can cost to keep running..................you were right mate, my apologies for ever doubting you.


Think the thread should be hidden so merc190uk doesn't see it and pass out :P
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Will
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Johnboy IRL
Tue Sep 30, 2008 6:46 pm
Here go's.

2.5-16 '91 non cat (204bhp) manual. A/con,Electric seats, with o/s memory,MB alarm,OTG & Illuminated vanity mirrors.
3 owners.
F/MB/S/H to 103k in '00 and patchy history up 134k in '05
(but had f/pump,injectors,alternator,battery,track rod ends,n/s driveshaft,asr levelling valve replaced in that period.)
All invoices,full stamped service book and MOT's supplied.

Purchased June '06 @143k. :driver:

WORK CARRIED OUT:

July '06 @143k

Cyl.head o/haul,timing chain & both tensioners,w/pump,drive belt,thermostat,KE metering head,clutch,general service ( + all fluids).

From Aug '07 @ 152k - Sept '08 @ 165k :'(

BODY:

1. Replace o/s/f wing - rust behind plastic trim panel
2. Repair n/s/f panel corner
3. Repair n/s & o/s/r 1/4 panels - around wheel arches & at panel clip holes
4. Repair n/s/f wing - at panel clip holes
5. Repair all jacking points
6. Repair n/s/r door - at panel clip holes

SUSPENSION:

1. Replace o/s lower wishbone
2. Replace 6 x cam/castor bolts
3. Replace front anti roll bar bushes
4. Replace rear anti roll bar bushes
5. Replace rear subframe bushes x 4
6. Replace rear lower arms inner & outer bushes
7. Replace front shocks
8. Replace front springs
9. Replace top mounts

DRIVETRAIN:

1. Replace propshaft carrier bearing assy.
2. Replace 2 x prop. couplings


GEARBOX:

1. Replace complete gear linkage assy (bar link rods & gear lever)
2. Replace mounting.
3. Replace clutch master & slave cyl's.

STEERING:

1. Replace damper

EXHAUST:

1. Replace rear box
2. Replace centre box

BRAKES:

1. Replace o/s/f ABS sensor

ENGINE:

1. Replace both engine mounts
2. Replace oil cooler thermostat
3. Shim valves (again)
4. Replace I.C.V. & rubber mounting.
5. Replace throttle potentiometer
6. Replace coil

INTERIOR:

1. Replace gear lever knob/gaitor
2. Replace heater illumination bulb (all).


Items that possibility need attention: :'(
Rear wheel bearings,o/s driveshaft, exhaust downpipe,rear springs,water leak into boot(suspect rear screeen seal perished),g/box bearings noisy,diff noisy,steering box requires adjustment (hopefully box is o.k.) & front screen,bonnet & front bumper badly chipped. Alarm inop on boot,air con inop. & lap timer bleeding. Plus a couple of interior rattles require attention.

Modified parts fitted: :D
Momo 350mm st.wheel with adjustable spacers (10-70mm),8jx16 Evo1 alloys & 225/45/16 tyres,Shift light,H&R front springs & Bilstein B6 front shocks,Deleted front exhaust box,K&N air filter on modified/shortened original filter housing.

Parts replaced due to damage: :(
O/s headlamp glass & grill star & n/s track rod end.

Service items replaced:
Eng.oil & filter x 4, fuel filter,plugs x 8, plug leads,dist.cap & rotor,oil cap,brake pads fr & rear,tyres x 4,p.a.s. oil filter

Items replaced in error!!! :'(
Rear ABS/ASD sensor,eng.air inlet temp. sensor,throttle cable & brake light switch.

I hope this will assist anybody considering buying a 'cheap' 2.5-16. Any questions don't hesitate to ask. JOHN.

Good factual writeup Johnboy,

That sounds like a quite plausable list, and generally what I would expect for one of these cars for the age and mileage.

To think of it positively, think of all of the fun that you've had in that time, ans also that your car is unlikely to have depreciated much during that time B)

Many of those jobs should also last you quite some time now :)

Useful insight to anyone who's not currently owned a 16-valve 190E before ;)

Will
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Johnboy Mac
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Will, that's exactly right. I've no complaints, done 22,000 hard miles, always started, never broke down and brings a smile to my face even when I'm not driving. Not bad for a hobby that gives me daily transport. What more could I want?
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Michael
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What did that all cost? :unsure:
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merc190uk
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JensonGB
Tue Sep 30, 2008 9:45 pm


Think the thread should be hidden so merc190uk doesn't see it and pass out :P
:faint: doh too late just read it :faint:


:lol:
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Johnboy Mac
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Michael, to be honest I originally allowed to purchase car, pay V.R.T. (import tax), get it in a reasonable state with all major work done €8,000 approx £6,200. But I decided to get other preventive work done e.g. Cyl.head o/haul, that I knew would crop up sooner or later plus a few mod's I'm hitting €10,000 approx £7,800.

If I could afford to do everything I wanted (and most of that is not required to have a very nice standard car) it could cost €25,000 plus approx £19,500.

But to keep a balanced view on things if I wanted just a nice 16v in very good order here in Ireland it can be done for €12,000 approx £9,350 - bare in mind that would include collection in U.K. and V.R.T..

Another point worth consideration is when I owned a BMW 2002 about seven years ago a good one cost about £3000 plus and you could guarantee spending another £1000-1500 on it . Today you would have to pay £5000 plus now I know which car I'd prefer.
Edited by Johnboy Mac, Wed Oct 1, 2008 12:00 pm.
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RobertE
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Good thread this and reflects either what I have done or the list of 37 things I have decided to do over the winter. I look at this this way; at the end of it, you own one of the best 1980's cars (whch also means one of the best cars) ever made. I agree re. hobby combined with daily driver(s)

I reckon, with a £3K starting price, and being your own clerk of works, and even allowing for all OEM/Mercedes parts, you come out of it with more or less a perfect machine for £10-12K over three years. At which point it is worth (probably) £8K.

This is sensible arithmetic. I know (because I have owned too many cars) that most solid Mercs - provided they are not regular Beirut Taxis - repay resoration q. well and, also M-B is one of the few marques which permit a practical running restoration.

But that is why I have two! When I first priced them up, eighteen months ago, I assumed I'd have to pay £5-6K for a good one. After some homework (a lot of it on this forum) I got two good 'uns for that.

And lots of useful spares.
Edited by RobertE, Sat Oct 4, 2008 12:23 pm.
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Johnboy Mac
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Yeah Robert, that about sums it up. :driver:
Being frank if I could have found a 100point 2.5-16 with the spec I wanted and had the dosh to buy it I might have done. But from my experience (28+ years) with cars 100point motors due to age will need work especially if used daily and keeping them off the road ain't a great idea either. I noticed Merc190Uk ain't over joyed with my detailed post but no point in being lenient with the facts. Having said that I would encourage anybody wishing to buy one of these motors to shop around, take your time,research this site AND always take somebody with you, you'll pick up a decent motor for the right money and won't look back. :)
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Johnboy Mac
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Just decided to keep this post up to date, might interest some of you guys as the old warhorse finally 'broke down' on me, well that's not totally correct. The n/s driveshaft snapped in two which to be honest was not the car's fault more like my doing while hammering it on typical rally tarmac type stage roads in the wild west of Ireland. So got it recovered to Ross's (Cosmo 2.5-16) for replacement shaft plus other items that require attention. See list below.

O.k. so my last update covered up to Dec '08 @ 168,000mls., current mileage now 180k. During this time only Engine oil & filter changes (4) have been carried out, a couple of bulbs replaced damaged n/s wing moulding (replacement thanks to Cosmo 2.5-16). That's about it, so no complaints.

Work due now:

1. Replace n/s Driveshft.
2. Repair brake in engine wiring harness - causing engine to idle high.
3. Replace Clutch kit, clutch fork, spigot bearing (end of crank), gearbox oil change.
4. Refit overhauled gear lever & linkage (all new parts from M-B @ €300), fit bronze bushes (thanks Dave)
5. Shim valves & replace rocker cover gasket.
6. Replace flywheel pick up Sensor - precaution. Another strealership price @ €235!
7. Replace Fuel filter.
8. Replace n/s Head lamp lens - stone damage.
9. General check over of suspension, steering & brakes.

Other items that I'll need to attend to:

10. Replace aerial mast - broken (original from Ebay £22).
11. Check on slight exhaust blow at rear pipe joint.
12. Refit front bumper on n/s corner & fit new clips to n/s wing moulding.
13. Tyres x 4 & wheel alignment - going for Fulda's (225/45/16) Carat Extremo's again as I got 18,000 mls out of this current set, so very happy about them even if they ain't exactly a new design. £324 including delivery from Camskill against £288 for Toyo TR1 Proxes which I suspect would'nt last as long.

After all of the above, it will still need a recon diff, rear window water ingress repaired and a few other bits.

Oh, never ending but as you've probably gathered the car get's used and abused as a daily driver and it's still enjoyable to drive.

That's all for now!!!


P.s. A thanks to Sham27 for sorting me out a driveshaft.






Edited by Johnboy Mac, Wed Jun 24, 2009 5:58 pm.
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Johnboy Mac
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Update August '09 @ 180,000 miles.


Got the car back tonight from Ross (Cosmo2.5-16), thanks Ross. It was great be driving it again as I've not driven it since the last week in June when I broke the driveshaft, took a couple weeks to find used one at a reasonable price and another three weeks before it was delivered to me. So over five weeks was lost just on this alone.

Ross, carried out most of the jobs required but while shimming the valves, valve seat regression was found on several of the inlet valves - not good, so valves will be checked again in 4-5k miles (and not pulling max rev's :( ) and we'll go from there. And one other minor problem was the clutch fork supplied by M-B was incorrect.

Items to do now:


1. Replace exhaust back box mounting rubbers - done
2. Fit new aerial mast.
3. Change plugs. - done
4. Change dist. cap & rotor for Bosch items. (€65 for both) - done
5. Fit new n/s air vent, thanks Dave. -done
6. Engine oil & filter change. -done
7. Replace tyres. - done
8. Fit new/recon gear lever linkage assy.


Then I'm left with:

9. Poss. head overhaul.
10. Recon. Diff. -
11. Attend to rear screen water ingress.
12. Exhaust downpipe.



That's it for now (hopefully). :D

A thank you to Ross for working on the car & Sham27 for suppling spare ignition control moduel at reasonable cost.


Edited by Johnboy Mac, Fri Jan 29, 2010 6:25 pm.
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Michael
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No better man to do the job. :D
Did you get a peep at the Evo? :lol:
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Johnboy Mac
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MICHAEL
Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:25 pm
No better man to do the job. :D
Did you get a peep at the Evo? :lol:


Oh, indeed I did. Actually, I saw it the week after Ross collected from you - lovely car.
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Michael
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Johnboy IRL
Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:34 pm
MICHAEL
Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:25 pm
No better man to do the job. :D
Did you get a peep at the Evo? :lol:


Oh, indeed I did. Actually, I saw it the week after Ross collected from you - lovely car.
It's one of lifes experiences, that I'm glad to have enjoyed. :D
Great car. :P :P :P
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Johnboy Mac
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Update Sept '09.

Carried out unseizing o/s h/lamp wiper motor also striped both and cleaned/lubricated, removed both head lamps and cleaned up earths & protected, remounted h/lamps with new fitting kits. Cleaned both front indicators with seals removed.

Found small rust hole on n/s inner wing at bolt for wing liner- cleaned up, treated with rust inhibitor, sprayed over it waxoyl, covered with small riveted alloy plate and waxoyled again, hopefully this will last as a temp. repair.

Adjusted front wheel bearings.
Lubricated all locks & hinges.
Topped up battery.
Treated superifical rust spot at o/s number plate lamp - removed both lamps & cleaned.
4x Wheels balanced.
Added 300ml Injection cleaner to 1/4 tank.
Adjusted CO.



Edited by Johnboy Mac, Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:25 pm.
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billinjah
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how much did the cyl head overhaul run to mate?
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Johnboy Mac
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billinjah
Wed Sep 30, 2009 2:05 am
how much did the cyl head overhaul run to mate?


Billinjah. Currently it's suspected that a head o/haul maybe required within the next 5K mls, but I won't know for sure until the valve clearences are checked again in another 2K mls, thus I can't tell you a cost. When the head was originally o/hauled in '06 it was done with t/chain etc, service,clutch etc,etc - so I've no true idea of the head work on it's own.

Sorry, not much help but I'm sure somebody else on here can give you a good idea of costs.
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Will
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A head overhaul on a 16v can vary greatly depending on what is needed. Anything from a couple of hundred quid (DIY) if it just needs a decoke, valve grind and new seals up to £2k if you're
having most parts replaced and are paying for someone else to do all the work for you.
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RobertE
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Most decent engineering shops will alow you to be your own clerk of works, i.e. you take off the head, take it apart, take it to a machine shop (Not just any old machine shop, either) so they can clean it, dress it up a bit and give it back to you. Many £hundreds can be saved. Otherwise, Will's right, about £2K should see you OK if someone else does everything.
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Johnboy Mac
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Oct '09 (180k) - Jan '10 @ 188,000 miles

Nothing much to report happily. The Diff still needs an overhaul, engine idle has become erratic, sometimes idling for a few moments at 1400rpm and a rattle has developed in the rear somewhere from the underfloor below the rear seat area.

Fitted original 15'' alloys for winter in November.

Carried oil & filter change,
Added 300ml of injection cleaner @ 186k.

Replaced worn Drag Link
Refitted loose exhaust back box at clamp to centre box @ 188k.


That's it for now and nice to say no real issues in the last 8000 miles. :D



Edited by Johnboy Mac, Fri Jan 29, 2010 5:27 pm.
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Johnboy Mac
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March '10 @ 191,000


Having cleaned all body earths late last year, I forgot about the one in the batttery area beside the ASD relay. It's well hidden. There is one more at sunroof, somewhere behind the interior light (that's for another day). So removed earth bolt (13mm) and several earth leads and cleaned bolt threads & bolt hole (very minor rust), also cleaned earth leads. I removed the ASD replay mount that attached to the body by two 10mm nuts and refitted with some grease both on the nuts/threads and on the back of the mount itself. While there I removed the battery tray (held in by three 10mm nuts, one of which also holds the battery clap), this was done two years ago due to the fact it can be a rust trap, anyway inspected the tray underneath and found some superficial rust but tray and bodywork below were overall in excellent condition. Cleaned and then smeared with good old grease.

Replaced the missing back box exhaust rubbers (two heavy duty cables ties were doing the job for the last couple of weeks), could'nt work why the rubbers seen to just have disappeared as these had been replaced when I replaced the exhaust a few years ago. On inspection found the rear box was not sitting square, it was very slightly off (at a glance you'd never notice it) causing one rubber to be under too much tension and the other too little.

Replaced the wiper blade - something I've ment to do for a while now as it took a bit of a hammerng during the freezing conditions in Dec.

Carried out an engine oil& filter change, only 4K miles since the last one but since I'm in the humor.

Replaced a number plate & a front side light bulb.

Hopefully, this week coming I'll have my completely gear linkage installed with some bronze bushes. Listening Ross (Cosmo 2.5-16) ? :lol:


Still have a list of bits (twenty plus!) to do, some major and several minor but that's for another time. :D



Edit: Nearly forgot to mention. I had an engine idle problem, sometimes idle would rise to 1500 or 2000rpm for no apparent reason. Checked the engine wiring loom and found a broken pin in the block connector at the front of the inlet manifold - repaired all o.k.. Then checked the CO and that was fine at 0.8.
Edited by Johnboy Mac, Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:35 pm.
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twopointsix
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Well done John. Pleased to see you're keeping on top of the old girl...........

I think you can say that................! :$ ;)
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Johnboy Mac
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twopointsix
Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:44 pm
Well done John. Pleased to see you're keeping on top of the old girl...........

I think you can say that................! :$ ;)


Thanks Steve. Doubt honestly I'm not on top of her :lol: No, I'm just about keeping things going without spending money against doing a lot miles.
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merc190uk
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nice reading :driver:
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Johnboy Mac
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April 193,000.

Had the car around with Cosmo2516 (Ross) for my new gear linkage to be correctly assembled and fitted with two bronze bushes in the new lever end. Also had a vacuum leak and a couple of injectors seals were sucking air. Anyway fairplay to Ross complete new g/linkage fitted (much better & reverse lights back working too), he found the vac leak (behind air con switch) and temporally stopped the seals sucking air. New injectors & seals being ordered tomorrow from the States at $140 including shipping, see www.autohausaz.com

So the car keeps rolling on.

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stwat
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You can get the injectors from ebay for aroud £25 each and the seals are cheap as chips from the dealers i think.
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Johnboy Mac
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stwat
Sun Apr 25, 2010 11:03 pm
You can get the injectors from ebay for aroud £25 each and the seals are cheap as chips from the dealers i think.
Stwat, it actually works out cheaper from the States, I should have said the $140 includes shipping and a couple of other little bits. Also it saves me going to the local Merc dealer, fooking hate the place as they have not got a clue or any interest unless your looking for brake pads and that need to be for a current model.
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stwat
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Thats fair enough mate. Just thought it was a bit odd getting them from the US thats all.

There is nothing worse than a crap MB dealer. Thankfully the two near me are spot on.
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Johnboy Mac
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stwat
Sun Apr 25, 2010 11:13 pm

There is nothing worse than a crap MB dealer. Thankfully the two near me are spot on.



Your lucky. The last time I had a run in with them was when the Manager was away on his honeymoon. Looking for parts for my Corrado (as the are both a Merc & VW dearlership) and the guy serving me advised (told) me to buy a parts disc from eBay and come back with the parts numbers! You couldn't make it up.
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Johnboy Mac
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May '10 @ 194,000 miles.


Just a little up date.

Fitted new injectors today. Apon removing the old injectors, which was very easy because if they could have fallen out they would have done after undoing the injection pipes and securing bracket. The insulator seals and housing 'o'rings had seen better days. Re set the CO to 1.2/1.3 % which was easier to adjust, I'm presuming that's down to better atomization of the fuel thanks to the new injectors. Well, there's a noticable improvement in engine power/throttle response, maybe only 5% but possibly as much as 10% (wishful thinking?), hard to tell but an improvement there is which is a little surprising as the old injectors had only covered 70,000 miles. Anyway, happy days and one more item off the to-do list.


Plus: Fuel economy has improved not sure exactly by how much but will update and a small flat spot at around 2200rpm has gone.



Edited by Johnboy Mac, Sat Jun 5, 2010 11:43 pm.
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Johnboy Mac
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June 2010

Another update.

Have been getting a bit p1ssed off with an intermittent idle problem - won't idle, idle rises especially when engine gets hot etc. I knew there was a wiring fault in the engine loom between the back of the distributor and the inlet manifold but could'nt pin it down. So today I decided I'd remove the complete KE injection assembly. I checked & cleaned all the wiring connectors, checked all hoses & pipes plus inspected the reverse side of the KE unit for any splits/cracks in the rubber base. Also checked the operation of both the cold start injector & idle contol valve (wired directly to the battery) all good too.

What I did find a heavy build of carbon on throttle body & butterfly, so presume the throttle was'nt closing exactly 100%. Also, the original wiring fault I did'nt manage to pin down to the very exact spot but as temp measure cabled tried the loom into a position that's not allowing the fault to occur.

Took the old girl for a blast. Well it never drove better - really deep growl at 3500rpm. It's as quick at the day I got it even after another 60,000 + miles. Rock steady idle & fires on first turn of the key. Temp 'repair' to the wiring and the new injectors & seals fitted the other day have really made a vast improvement.

That's it for now folks but more to come, good, bad and no doubt indifferent.

Edited by Johnboy Mac, Thu Aug 1, 2013 2:24 am.
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jeremy
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So lemme get this straight , the poor idle is down to a wiring problem that you eliminated by cable tying some of the loom ?

Where exactly did you tie it ? A number of us have similar problems .


Jeremy
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Johnboy Mac
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Correct, as per my post.
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Johnboy Mac
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June '10 @ 195,500 miles

Well at last got a 2nd hand diff thanks to Marcus. Now the only problem is I've got a rear wheel bearing on it's way out. Could'nt hear previously as the old diff drowned out the noise! Diff was fitted by Ross (Cosmo 2.5-16), with fresh oil and also the n/s/f wishbone replaced too as was getting a knocking on hard L/H turns. Had a rattle from the rear, could'nt find it but it was driving me insane. Again thanks to Ross he found a stone in the rear exhaust heatshield, am I a happy bunny or what.

Next on the list both rear wh.bearings and cyl.head o/haul, some new tyres and an N.C.T. (mot).
Edited by Johnboy Mac, Fri Jul 2, 2010 12:49 am.
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