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| rear spring changing; there has to be an easyer way! | |
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| Topic Started: Tue May 12, 2009 7:03 pm (405 Views) | |
| mindingthepotole | Tue May 12, 2009 7:03 pm Post #1 |
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Go on... buy a rusty one. lol
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having a bit of a mare witht eh rear springs........... what is the easyest way to remove and refit? mark |
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| Will | Tue May 12, 2009 7:09 pm Post #2 |
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Without a compressor, I believe that some people jack the car up, let the wheel hang down (to partially relieve the springs pressure). Place a jack underneath the wishbone to take the load, carefully remove the inner bolt(s) and then gradually lower the jack. I have heard good/bad things about this method - appararantly not as dangerous as once thought as the spring is nearly fully un-compressed once the wheel is hanging down after jacking that corner of the car up. But consider all risks/complications yourself IMHO - I've never done it this way and it's only going on what I've read. All at your own risk (but it should be fine IMHO) Will |
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| khimani_mohiki | Tue May 12, 2009 7:24 pm Post #3 |
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Follow the guide Shrekky wrote, remove damper then unbolt lower arm from upright, the spring should come out with out much hassle, well mine did but then they had snapped at one end anyway making them about 30mm shorter. If your putting lowering spring in they should go in a lot easier than they come out. |
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| carl mcgraw | Tue May 12, 2009 7:26 pm Post #4 |
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As above; use A BUCKET-FULL OF COMMON SENSE!!!! DO carefully support the car, DO ensure your chosen trolley jack is : a) in tip-top condition and up to the load.. b) on level, FIRM ground (if in doubt, use a paving slab or steel plate under it..), and not likely to 'roll-away' when you take/ release the load, and c) able to SLOWLY release the load; if you KNOW your jack has a 'hair-trigger' borrow a good one...and no using the best butter knife to work the release screw ;-) You do have to 'jiggle' stuff about, but it's the easiest way... HTH Carl |
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| alan | Tue May 12, 2009 7:27 pm Post #5 |
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He's trained to kill vandals and the french
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i dont think you want do do it the way i did it i unbolted the whole subframe made life quite easy and stuck lowering springs in and bolted everything up again it wasnt that hard unlike the subframe bushes i was changin at the same time they were a bollox to get in and out |
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| mindingthepotole | Tue May 12, 2009 7:47 pm Post #6 |
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Go on... buy a rusty one. lol
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cheers guys.. i will have another crack at it tomorrow. did my head in today, so i thought i would just walk away and have a rest. lol |
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| Martrider | Wed May 13, 2009 8:00 am Post #7 |
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Longest build time in history?
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Often the best solution As the great Austin Powers once said, "First i'm going to soil myself, then i plan to regroup and come up with another plan".
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| highwayman | Sun May 17, 2009 7:04 pm Post #8 |
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Polar bear
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I did mine with a trolley like this:![]() To ensure the spring doesn´t escape into my face when letting the subframe down, I tied the whole spring to the subframe. I tied it up pretty loose, so the spring could raise to full length, but stay in place. Have done this three times now, and it seems to be the safest way, to jack the wheel up in the air standing firmly (an axle stand under the car) and put the trolley under the inner bolt. Then I raise the trolley until the weight and spring force lays on this and not on the bolt and then I simply tap it out with a screwdriver. This is also another safety when the bolt is tapped out, the screwdriver will still be there in the hole to prevent the subframe from smashing down IF the trolley gives in. Then take the screwdriver out and lower the subframe gently, and voilá, one spring loose. SHREKKY´s guide is also very good, my way I saw it done on Wheeler Dealer, don´t know if any way is better than the other. But as everyone else says, BE CAREFUL! This isn´t hard to do, as long as you don´t hurry and let every step take it´s time. Better late than dead.
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| Richy190E | Sun May 17, 2009 7:31 pm Post #9 |
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Sales Rep
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You could always sign up to one of my fantastic spring compressors in the 190 room thread
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| mazza | Tue May 19, 2009 12:21 pm Post #10 |
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hi folks good price on those compressors Rich and they look pretty good too. I used the spring compressor made by SIR tools and was able to change the front springs in 20min and that included a good clean also. There was one problem though, it wont work on the rear springs, well! it didnt work on my cossie anyways! there's not enough room to remove the spring, probably why i was never able to find a video showing the rear springs being removed..then again maybe it was me...as I was very very drunk...he he!! best of luck mazza |
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| Weyrmaster | Tue May 19, 2009 12:32 pm Post #11 |
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Errrrrrrr!
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I did my rear springs exactly the way Will described. Took longer to jack and support the car than it did to change the springs. From start to finish it only took 20 mins for both!
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| Martrider | Tue May 19, 2009 12:34 pm Post #12 |
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Longest build time in history?
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Just for reference, there are some very good copies of the Wheeler Dealer vids when they re-furb'd the Smoke-Silver 2.5-16 (And of course also staring our own Mr Steve Howson and his lovely 2.5-16) on Streetfire.net. I am still looking for a Carlsson spoiler the same by the way if anybody knows? There a few interesting 190 tips on there and always worth a look. ![]() First episode i think... Wheeler Dealers, Season 3, Episode 5. Second Part Wheeler Dealers, Season 3, Episode 6 Enjoy.... |
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| ChrisFball12 | Fri Jun 19, 2009 7:56 am Post #13 |
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Yellow Car
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^ I did the one in the wheelers and dealers and i even had the MB spring compressor. Yeah it came out fine but good luck lining up to bolt holes. |
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| Ukmerctechie | Fri Jun 19, 2009 7:05 pm Post #14 |
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I only answer to Carlos Spicyweiner!
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What your Ed China?
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| Richy190E | Fri Jun 19, 2009 7:19 pm Post #15 |
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Sales Rep
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ed china is a c0ck, gives mechanics a bad name. |
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| khimani_mohiki | Fri Jun 19, 2009 8:19 pm Post #16 |
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chin scratching, teeth sucking, patronising rip off merchants give mechanics a bad name |
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