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Hydraulic Lifters; How hard / Expensive to change?
Topic Started: Sat Jun 27, 2009 6:22 pm (212 Views)
hitenb
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Gentlemen,

A quick question, how difficult / expensive would it be to change the hydraulic lifters on a 2.0?
I've tried the 'Wynns' treatment, but its not worked as well as I thought it would have.

Repercussions of not changing it A.S.A.P?

Thanks !
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iggy
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the hydraulic lifters in my old 2.6 took me approx 3 hours to change, cant remember how much they cost got them from gsf , not very difficult realy,
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hitenb
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any special tools needed?
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iggy
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no special tools needed,follow haines manual instuctions, just looked up gsf hydraulic lifters are £5.50 each
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hitenb
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Thanks mate, got a Haynes manual here..will check it out :)
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iggy
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yeah go for it take your time you only need a socket set, remember to fill the new lifters with oil
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hitenb
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Shall give the haynes a read through and then see whether I'll tackle it or pay someone to do it for me.. It's not something I'd like to get wrong!! :D
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balamb37
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Yes you will need a TORQUE WRENCH, or take the risk of one or more of the bolts shearing, not only by over tightning but also later while the engine is running.
Repercussions, could be a ruined camshaft, don't take the chance.
Cheers Barrie,
Ps. Did mine about six months ago, paid about £60 from GSF for a set of 8, time took about an hour and a half. The rest is as 'iggy' says.
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hitenb
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Ooooh.. Thanks for that input - the ruined camshaft just gave me chills mate!

I'll try and sort it fastest!

I've noticed that its a little more thirsty than normal!
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MadMike
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Somebody did a full " How To " guide on changing the lifters. It is in the engine section somewhere. I had a good read not long ago.

I am thinking about doing this on my car.

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balamb37
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Yes I was surprised after I had done mine how much the 'Consumption' improved, and as long as you follow the Haynes you shouldn't get any problems it's quite straight forward, be careful when removing the Rocker Cover without damaging the seal and you will be able to re-use it.
It's pretty normal to get a little 'clicking' on start up but it should go straight away as soon as you raise the revs a bit, if the 'clicking' is there all the time on 'tickover' then damage is pre-programmed on the 'camshaft' or 'camshaft bearings' and once changed they'll last another 100k
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hitenb
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I get a slight 'clicking' sound every now and again as soon as the oil pressure is all the way up... comes on for a bit then dies away and once its warm its not really there!! Would it be better to use original Merc. parts as opposed to O.E? Since its down to sensitive engine bits I guess it would make sense.. Hmm.. time to start getting worried about this issue. :(
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balamb37
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Hi,
As long as you follow the haynes to the 'T' there isn't much that can go wrong, and I would imagine a garage would charge for around two hrs. and at the hourly rate nower days for such a straight forward job it's not worth it, you would be better of buying some appropiate tools.
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hitenb
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Thanks mate, I just had a read through the manual and it seems fairly straight forward.. I have a torque wrench, but not the mandrel and the "mercedes tool" that is used to measure the width of the spacers.. :)
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balamb37
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Sorry mate but i don't know what 'Merc Tool' or Mandrel you're talking about, or Spacers for that matter, are you sure you're not getting the two systems mixed up ( 'Hydros' change and setting valve clearance with 'Shims' which are also called spacers) ??
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Ukmerctechie
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I only answer to Carlos Spicyweiner!
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balamb37
Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:29 pm
Sorry mate but i don't know what 'Merc Tool' or Mandrel you're talking about, or Spacers for that matter, are you sure you're not getting the two systems mixed up ( 'Hydros' change and setting valve clearance with 'Shims' which are also called spacers) ??
:lol:
This why garages charge good money for jobs on cars lmao
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hitenb
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I recall reading those terms form the Haynes manual under the hydraulic lifters section, unless I'm reading the wrong thing totally.. :D
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balamb37
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Unless you suspect or see damge to your 'camshaft' you don't have to take it out to change the 'hydraulic lifter' you only need to take the 'camshaft bearing caps' off one by one,
Maybe that's why garages charge good money, for excessive work that is not neccesary, making an hours job three hours. lmao
Edited by balamb37, Mon Jun 29, 2009 3:10 pm.
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hitenb
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I think it'll inevitably be a call to the mechanics.. :$
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balamb37
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Hi,
Providing there is no collateral damage changing the 'Hydros' is a straight foreward job, in the haynes it is discribing a complete head check and refurbishment, all you need to concentrate on is the 'Hydro' change.
Rocker cover off.
Obviously check the 'cams' for signs of damage.
I think at this point you will have to take the oil delivery pipe off, it lays along the top of the C/S, but it will be obvious and check that it is clear.
Then take the 'camshaft bearing cap' off ,but only one at a time.
Also checking the bearing (top half) for signs of damage.
With the cap there will be two 'rockers' one 'Hydro' in each.
Push the 'Hydro' out with something (mandrel) taking care to retain the little plates that come off with it,
Fill the new 'Hydro' with clean engine oil as discribed in the Haynes and replace with the little plate (spacer).
Repeat with the second one and replace the 'camshaft bearing cap' and torque load the bolts, ( can and do shear when not careful).
Then repeat the operation with the other three 'C/S bearing caps' one by one.
You don't need to disturb anything else, camshaft or sprocket, all being well and providing you don't find other worn parts it will be over in a couple of hours, and it's painless lmao

Good luck, It's called 'learning by doing' ;)

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hitenb
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Sweet, Thanks for putting up that quick guide.. :) I tried to imagine each stage in my mind. The most I've done is to remove and replace the rocker cover seal and place it back on tightening the bolts as it says in the manual... The thing is that I need to have a look at a pic of the engine with the cover off so I can familiarise myself with "whats what" as I think the pictures in the haynes manual aren't too great... thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.. I've moved house temporarily as my normal residence suffered a leak so insurance moved me out...most of my stuff (including tools) is all packed away in boxes.. ARGHH, now I have the task of digging and taking it all out! Mission!
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balamb37
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Hi,
Once you have the 'Rocker cover' off I think it will all become obvious to you, it's a straight foreward job and I haven't heard or read of anyone having difficulties.
I haven't a clue what a garage would charge as I haven't beeen back in Blighty for long, but it might be worth getting a couple quotes, then you would see how much you would be saving. ;)
Cheers, Barrie.
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hitenb
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Cheers Barrie,

I'll ring up and check on some quotes, I think it'll be in my best interest to use original Merc parts instead of O.E.. Just to be sure :)

Shall update with progress !
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balamb37
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I got mine from GSF and I am not sure but I think they would have to use the same suppliers as MB, and they work a treat.
Let me know how much the garage quotes come in at, it would be interesting to know.
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hitenb
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Sure will do.. I hope i'm not in for too much of a shock !

I'd guess it would take them around 2hrs maximum.
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