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| Fan Cut in 2.5 16V | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:50 am (1,594 Views) | |
| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:50 am Post #1 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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The fan was not cutting in until the temperature guage was halfway between the line above 80 degrees and the line above (120). It is frustrating not having any markings to show the actual temp. This is higher than the cut in point on our other cars. I have change the fan switchfor a new one and it still cuts in at the same point. THe switch I removed had 100 degrees marked on it so i assume the new one is the same. When running normally the temp sits just above 80 so the guage sender seems to be working ok. My question is can i assume that the cut in point is actually 100 or should I be looking for a reason why the cut in seems to be greater than 100. |
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| Will | Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:07 pm Post #2 |
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Highly Addicted
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Where did you source the fan switch from, is it a genuine part? I'm pretty sure they cut in around 100c, but to be honest in normal driving you'd be hard pushed to see it reach that high. Perhaps on a boiling hot day and stuck in traffic for a while, but not during normal usage. Will |
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:09 pm Post #3 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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The one I took out genuine part. Replaced with GSF. Both cut in at same point. We do get stuck in traffic when holiday makers down so I was concerned in case it was cutting in high. Normal driving fine just above 80 |
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| Will | Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:16 pm Post #4 |
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Highly Addicted
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Well the original fan switch sounds as though it's working fine, it'll only cut in when it's around 100c as you've noted. I don't think the thermostat is even fully open until it's up to the high-80s. Over 120c would be 'overheating', that's the red mark on your temperature guage. It doesn't sound to me as though you have much to worry about. Car is warmed up, naturally the heat generated by the engine with no airflow through the radiator will take it up to 100c after a few minutes in traffic, then the electro-clutch on the fan will engage allowing the fan to blow air through the radiator and so the cycle continues. Aside from this, I'd recommend a coolant change if it hasn't been done for a while - as a matter of course. Will |
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:20 pm Post #5 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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Yep planning to change coolant. Just seemed odd that it appears to switch in higher on this car. Will change the temp sender as well in case that is a bit iffy. Just have to get used to seeing the needle creep high |
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| Will | Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:15 pm Post #6 |
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Highly Addicted
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Hi Andy, Half way between the 80 and 120 marks on the dash would be 100c? The original fan switch is cutting in at the correct temperature (circa 100c) All sounds A-OK to me. What temperature does the fan cut in at on your other cars? Can't be much lower - thermostat is rated at something like 87, so it's got to be somewhere over 87 and less than 100c approx. Will |
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:30 pm Post #7 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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It cuts in halfway between the white mark above 80 and 120. Therefore 2/3 way between 80 and 120. On the other cars it cuts in halfway between 80 and 120 |
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| RobertE | Fri Jul 17, 2009 3:05 pm Post #8 |
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Serial victim...
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You'll find, Andy, that the valver engines run a bit hotter than the others. You can't get winter/summer thermostats (I think they are all the same for 4-pot cars) and the fan switch is also set. The pressure cap on yours should be stamped '120' but if you get a replacement it is marked '140.' Seems to make little difference... |
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| ThankYouLord | Fri Jul 17, 2009 4:48 pm Post #9 |
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More than part of things
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Andy, I don't think it's fine at all mate. Your fan should cut in at 88 degree's, which is the line above the 80 mark. Your temp should not fluctuate any higher than that and the fan should stay on until it drops to 80. If you (As i was) are reaching anywhere significantly in the gap between the line above the 80 and the 120 mark, you are cooking it (As i did) and will need a new head gasket after any length of time (As i did). To put it a different way, imagine it as a clock face. your needle wants to be always pointing at 9. If it reaches 10, it's already way too hot and at 11 you are at 120. Your needle wants to be no higher than just above the 9 o clock position, as if it's the hours hand you are looking at and it's twenty past nine or at a push, half past. Sorry but this clock face analogy was the easiest way i can think of to describe what i mean. I am pretty sure you need an 88 degree switch but i do know for sure all about the marks. That one above the 80 mark is only there to to indicate Optimal Temp and above that by just a small amount, the fan cutting it - anyone ever wondered why it doesn;t have a temp written next to it? if you get anywhere more than a smidge above that line, it's not working 100%. Edited by ThankYouLord, Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:10 pm.
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:18 pm Post #10 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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That is what I thought. That is where the other cars cut in. But the new switch is the same as the old and cuts in at the same place as the old which I feel is too hot. Solution? |
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| RobertE | Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:28 pm Post #11 |
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Serial victim...
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Well, as ever, one at a time. First, suggest pressure cap. |
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| ThankYouLord | Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:42 pm Post #12 |
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More than part of things
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88 or 90 degree switch mate. That's what i fitted and it works so perfectly, it makes Swiss watches look bad ! |
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| stwat | Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:45 pm Post #13 |
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There is some good info on the different switches and temps they cut in at HERE The 16v cars do seem to run hotter. The general consensus is that the fan should cut in at or just under 100. Edited by stwat, Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:47 pm.
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:48 pm Post #14 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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This is what I wanted to hear. Part No? Supplier? |
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| ThankYouLord | Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:55 pm Post #15 |
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More than part of things
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EDIT: The Switch has 100 / 95 C stamped on it. I was obviously a few degrees too short of the mark in my previous post but the Mark at 9-o-clock is correct temp and it should be no more above that than a smidge, before you get fan assist. |
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| stwat | Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:58 pm Post #16 |
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It sounds to me like your's is working just as it should, Andy. |
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| ThankYouLord | Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:59 pm Post #17 |
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More than part of things
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Right, dug around a little more and yes, it's a 100/95 degree, 2 Pin Switch. Euro Car Parts maybe? I am Pretty sure i have heard of them doing them. Edited by ThankYouLord, Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:01 pm.
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| shrekky | Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:09 pm Post #18 |
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Troll hunter
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sorry phil ,you are wrong...............the themrostat doesnt open until 82-85 degrees C.............. a fan kicking in at 88 degrees,would cool it to much and make the thermostat close again...........which would make the engine truly inefficent..........................fan should kick in 98-103 degrees sounds like its working fine to me andy......................you keep comparing it to your other cars andy,but remember the tolerances on seperate components vary..................the gauge could be + or- 5 %,and the same with the sender unit...........so theroretically it could be 10% out compared to another car |
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| ThankYouLord | Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:11 pm Post #19 |
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More than part of things
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That would be why i corrected myself later on sean and said that i had previously quoted it a few degrees to short. Sorry about that. |
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:26 pm Post #20 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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![]() A picture always helps. On 3 of my cars the fan kicks in just above the first white line immediately above the 80. On the valver using a switch rated at 100 the fan kicks in at a point slightly more than halfway between the two white lines above the 80 which I would calculate to be about 110. in normal driving it sits just above the 80 where it should. |
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| Toff190 | Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:29 pm Post #21 |
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190 Mob Member and a Wise Guy.
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I know nothing but i would be a little concern at 110. |
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| iggy | Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:36 pm Post #22 |
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More than part of things
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i bought a 100 degree fan switch from euro car parts for my 2.6 its a 2 pin fitted into cylinder head ready for my twin electric fans part no 460220040 |
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| stwat | Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:37 pm Post #23 |
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The next line above the 80, is 100. Id say your other cars are cutting in bit too soon to be honest. i have set mine to cut in just below the 100 mark(mine has an adjustable temperature dial fitted) My car ran fine and never overheated at all on my recent trip to France. The fan would cut in just under 100 and go off at around 95, which is just how it should be. I was sat in a few traffic jams with OTG showing 32 degrees as well with no problems. Honestly, Andy, yours is working just as it should mate. You have nothing to worry about. Stu |
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:39 pm Post #24 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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The valver cuts in just over half way between the 100 and the 120 lines |
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| Toff190 | Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:48 pm Post #25 |
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190 Mob Member and a Wise Guy.
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So thats about 112-115 thats high Andy, in saying that i dont own a 16v so best to take advice from those that do. |
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| stwat | Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:00 pm Post #26 |
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I'm very sorry, Andy. I totally misread your post, my mistake mate. That certainly way too hot!!!!! I'd recommend you get a switch from the dealers using your VIN to make sure you get the exact one for your car. The GSF and ECP ones can often be crap quality. Once again, sorry for my misunderstanding. Stu |
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:04 pm Post #27 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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No problems mate. I was sure it was too hot. Had already planned to give the stealership a call. What threw me was the new switch working at same temp as old one. Thought it might be a fault temp sender but that works ok around the 80 degrees . I'll get both just so I can eliminate those two things. |
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| Johnboy Mac | Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:54 pm Post #28 |
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More than part of things
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Andy in 40k plus miles mine (even after a head job, new w/pump,thermostat,rad cap,fresh coolant X 2) with new genuine fan switch allows the fan to cut in just around the 100C mark and no probs. |
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:48 pm Post #29 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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Yep. Thats the problem, Mine does not cut in till 110 plus |
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| Big Ben | Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:25 pm Post #30 |
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Sneaky 2.5-16 Driver!
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Not wanting to throw a spanner in the works......... ......But I will Are you sure the sender for the temperature gauge IS working properly?If you changed a fan switch because it was cutting in at too high a temperature and the new one does the same, maybe the third one will make the full set. Just my halfpenny's you undertand!
Edited by Big Ben, Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:26 pm.
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| big al merc | Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:38 pm Post #31 |
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Highly Addicted
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As if you would do that
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| aemt | Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:39 pm Post #32 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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No not sure it is working correctly. It appears fine at normal running temp(80) Getting new one from MB to check |
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| Michael | Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:54 pm Post #33 |
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Needs Help
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Andy, you're worrying to much, the fan's doing it's job properly.
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| big al merc | Fri Jul 17, 2009 10:01 pm Post #34 |
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Highly Addicted
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Andy i hate to tell you but there is dust in the bottom corner of your dash
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| Richy190E | Fri Jul 17, 2009 10:54 pm Post #35 |
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bubble bubble
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And the fuel economy is bad, you have no oil pressure, no petrol and cold coolant...best get it checked out
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| Michael | Fri Jul 17, 2009 10:56 pm Post #36 |
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Needs Help
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| Ukmerctechie | Sat Jul 18, 2009 12:31 am Post #37 |
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Dir is Kool. WKKP Forever!
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Hi Andy If i am reading your post right your fan is kicking in at the red line on the picture?If so it is too high. It should kick in at the yellow line.(admire the artwork lads )Give me bell on Monday and i will go thru checking the system with you. Cheers Andy
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| jeremy | Sat Jul 18, 2009 12:52 am Post #38 |
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Too Far Gone To Help
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I've had my valver for nearly a year now , and I still cannot get used to the fan cutting in where it does , mine cuts in where your new red-line is , this only happens in traffic , on the track it stays rock solid at 80 , My 2.0 & 2.6 both stay at 80 all day long , so why dont our valvers ? It still worries me . Yes I know that under pressure , water can go much higher without boiling , but it still bothers me .....it is so close to boiling at natural temps ! Jeremy
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| aemt | Sat Jul 18, 2009 10:33 am Post #39 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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Yep Andy. It cuts in at the red line. The switch is rated at 100 degrees. The one I took out was genuine part. The one I put in from GSF; but both cut the fan in at the same place. I know the fan cuts in which people seem to think is fine, but it does not seem right. Given the summer traffic down here the fan gets a lot of use. If the car is regularly running say 5 degrees hotter than it should I would like to know why and see what I can do about it. I would guess it cannot be good long term to run hot on a regular basis. |
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| RobertE | Sat Jul 18, 2009 11:00 am Post #40 |
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Serial victim...
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I'd imagine they run a bit hotter because of all the extra moving parts - two cams, four valves, double cam chains and sprockets, SLS pump, etc., and using the same radiator and sump as a 2.3. Maybe a modification could be a radiator with a denser core? When I first got my 2.5 it ran cool over the winter and I had to use a taxi-style carboard sheet to blank off 50% or the radiator lest I froze to death. I'd rather a car ran a little hot than a little cold... |
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Are you sure the sender for the temperature gauge IS working properly?


9:18 AM Jul 11