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| Fan Cut in 2.5 16V | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:50 am (1,595 Views) | |
| Big Ben | Sat Jul 18, 2009 1:19 pm Post #41 |
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Sneaky 2.5-16 Driver!
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Temperature switches are rated at an average setting. Due to hysteresis of the switching mechanism it is not unusual at all for the contacts to make at several degrees above the rated temperature. The switch will also open at a similar difference below the rated temperature. The thing to worry about is if its not working at all!! |
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| Will | Sat Jul 18, 2009 6:49 pm Post #42 |
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Highly Addicted
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Hi Andy, Just to say that you're basing all of your concerns on here on the fact that you *think* it's running too hot. Your only reference so far is the temperature readout on the dash? Well - the fact that two 100c rated fan switches are cutting in at 100c would tell me that the common denominator here is the temperature sender and/or the temperature guage on the dash. How can that be accurate at 110c if the fan switch is only cutting in at 100c? Either you've got two faulty fan switches (both not operating until 110c) or your temperature reading inside the car is showing a higher figure than the actual coolant temperature. I appreciate BB's post above, but I'd be surprised if there was a 10c delay in the fan switch operating. Will Edited by Will, Sat Jul 18, 2009 6:50 pm.
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| Big Ben | Sat Jul 18, 2009 7:14 pm Post #43 |
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Sneaky 2.5-16 Driver!
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Quite agree Will. My post before last really highlights the fact that 2 fan switches that turn the fan on at the same temperature are probably ok and the temp sender is No 1 suspect. However, I remember a very expensive episode on my first car caused by 2 consecutive faulty condensors!!
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| aemt | Sat Jul 18, 2009 7:59 pm Post #44 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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Thanks guys. Sender is already on order. I am not overly worried about this, it just doesn't make sense which bugs me. 100 degrees should be 100 degrees (or thereabouts) not 110 |
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| balamb37 | Sat Jul 18, 2009 9:13 pm Post #45 |
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Grumpy Old Grampa with Dog
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If you haven't had your gauge checked how do you know that they aren't switching untill 110c ?? And another thing have you tried loosening the 'Thermal Switch' untill a little coolant seeps out to make sure there isn't an air bubble underneath it, it has been known to happen. Edited by balamb37, Sat Jul 18, 2009 9:19 pm.
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| Will | Sat Jul 18, 2009 9:14 pm Post #46 |
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Highly Addicted
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Aside from the coolant being apparantly at 110c (?), what does the oil temperature guage read (once everything is fully warmed up)? If the coolant was constantly at 110c or thereabouts, I'd expect a similar oil temperature eventually as well. Will |
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| aemt | Sat Jul 18, 2009 9:30 pm Post #47 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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Balamb - Yep checked for air bubble. No one had temp sender so cannot check that till later in week. Though in normal running it registers a nats p above 80. Could be faulty at higher temp but climbs steadilly with no jerky movements Good point Will - Oil at 100 degrees. Hopefully when sender turns up later in week all will be resolved |
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| Johnboy Mac | Sat Jul 18, 2009 9:53 pm Post #48 |
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More than part of things
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Will I see regulary the oil temp. at 110-120C and water temp at only 80C 'ish while pressing on at a fair rate. I'd always expect to see oil temp. as hot or hotter than the water no matter what the engine. But In traffic I'd expect to see water temp. at about 100C and oil temp. around 90-100C. Edited by Johnboy Mac, Sun Jul 19, 2009 6:39 pm.
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| cossie connoisseur | Sun Jul 19, 2009 4:32 pm Post #49 |
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there can be only one ;-)
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16v engine runs hotter than a standard car, also has a slightly more complicated coolant system compared to a 1.8 or say 2l. if its much above that 100 line its too hot, can be a few things however the GSF sensors are crap so used a genuine one myself if you really want to know the temp the fan kicks in look at the thermostate temp writen on it, mine did the same so flushed the system out changed the thermostate and sensor and she was fine. its a self bleed system so is easy to work on. |
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| Will | Sun Jul 19, 2009 5:36 pm Post #50 |
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Highly Addicted
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Hi John, Yep, but that's when driving. You have a massive amount of airflow through the (large) coolant radiator, hence the thermostat will be closing itself right down to maintain the coolant at or just above 87c. Without a thermostat (or a faulty one) the engine would struggle to even get up to temperature because of the radiator and the amount of airflow present. The coolant temperature naturally rises when sitting in traffic/stationary due to there being little/no airflow through the radiator and the engine bay itself even being quite hot. I'd expect that on a warm day with minimal airflow (ie stationary) and the car left running for a while, that the temperature would gradually rise to around the 100c mark with an oil temperature similar to that. Basically the oil and coolant would gradually become an almost equal temperature. The reason I mentioned this to Andy was that if the coolant really was at 110c, I'd expect the oil temperature to likewise be 110c or above, which it isn't - hence I doubt his temperature reading on the dash is correct. HTH, Will |
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| Johnboy Mac | Sun Jul 19, 2009 6:46 pm Post #51 |
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More than part of things
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Yeah I'd go along with that Will. Asides from oil temp. I strongly believe if using a 16V especially a 2.5 in daily traffic the real answer is to fit an electric fan with addition of an adjustable thermostat. |
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| aemt | Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:08 am Post #52 |
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Serial 190E Owner
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All sorted. Fitted new temp sender and it now cuts in at the line above 80. Much lower than before. Thanks for all the help. |
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| stwat | Sat Jul 25, 2009 2:49 am Post #53 |
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Thats good to hear Andy. So the non MB temp senders are to be avoided at all costs by the sounds of it! |
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| big al merc | Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:01 am Post #54 |
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Highly Addicted
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glad it's all sorted now |
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