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Do we have any engine rebuild specialists on here?; Need some advice/work done.
Topic Started: Mon Aug 24, 2009 12:11 pm (1,214 Views)
Martrider
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Longest build time in history?
Hi all,

I need my 2.5-16 block ripped apart and inspected and given a once over. I obviously need the shims doing, but would like a general health check done on the engine before i send it for the bike carbs.

SO does anybody on here actually do this kind of work? I don't want the whole thing blueprinted or anything just checked over and anything that needs doing, done.

Can anybody help? Advise me where to contact? (I've been talking to Jems but it might be going a bit too far for what i need).

Also, any expectation on cost? only a ballpark needed.

Thanks

Mart

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twopointsix
Addicted
[ *  *  *  * ]
Give Andy (UKMerchtechie) a call. 07914 805586. Everyone on here who's used his services is full of praise for his work.
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Richy190E
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bubble bubble
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If thats all you want doing then do it yourself :) you'll need a plastigauge set, a vernier caliper/depth gauge.

In advance order a gasket set and you're pretty much away, clean bench and lots of labelled storage. If you were closer i'd offer to help but at £50 courier each way its a bit expensive, that is better spent on parts. Patience, cleanliness and a methodical approach are key.
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Martrider
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Longest build time in history?
Would you be interested if i stripped the block down and could bring it over to you?

I do need some kind of idea of what it would cost me though. I'd actually be interested in doing it myself but with somebody to advise on the day as i am unsure exactly what i am doing. I'm very competant but don't really know the 16v engine internals as well as i should. Would anybody be interested in giving me a days/weekend lesson?
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Richy190E
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bubble bubble
[ *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Feel free to bring it over, we'll give it a good look over. If it needs work we can discuss it. I'll
look at it and measure it up for free with you no problem. Feel free to keep your options open though as its a long way to travel.
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The Gorilla
Part of things
[ *  * ]
Hi,

Martrider- I am not being negative to this
I am just trying to understand it.

I could not find any motorbike TB's with
actual TB's that were greater than
42mm Diam at the butterfly.

For sure some had 46mm diam inlet Stacks
but the largest butterfly was 42 mm.

Are you saying you have larger than
42mm diam at the butterfly ?

Next item was the injector spray pattern,
unless the Motorbike TB's are the same
spacing as the cosworth inlet, how are
you going to direct the spray from
the fuel injectors directly onto the the
inlet valves ?

As any Injector spray pattern misalignment
will cause serious running issues, hot and cold
spots and even burnt valves.

Do a quick Google on ''Petrol Injector Misaligment'' and
you will soon get the picture.

Having spent the best part of this weekend
trying to match 4 x TB'S to a 2.5 Cosworth inlet
while keeping the spary pattern at circa
100mm distance from tip of injector to back of
inlet valve shoulder, all in line, and syncronised, has been
and is proving to be a time consuming nightmare.

I almost gave up, but being a Primate, unfortunatley
it is all there for next weekend !!!

The alignment, distance, spary pattern of
any injector is critical, which in turn brings me
to the question of the motorbike injectors
and their suitability ?

Ferrari 430 Fuel injectors give one of the best
optimised spray patterns and are used in car engines
that would make the original manufacture ''**insert swear word here**y'.

As I said, I am not being negative just trying
to understand what your goal is and the
costs involved in getting there.

Regards,

The Gorilla.








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carl mcgraw
Part of things
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@ Gorilla
buddy, that's motorbike carbs...not TB's...
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carl mcgraw
Part of things
[ *  * ]
thread jack
Gorilla..try bike carbs as your butterfly only (kill the fuel circuitry), and mount the injectors in your (bored-out to suit) original manifold, cut and shut to suit..
that way you get roughly stock spray distance/ pattern etc...
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Martrider
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Longest build time in history?
No problems about the thread jack ;)

But this is one of the reasons i DIDN'T go ITBs and wanted to go non-injection Bike CARBS. No messing around for the sake of it and scratching heads.
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Uk Merc Man
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190e Leg-End
[ *  *  * ]
you're not the only one, I forsee bike carbs in my future.....
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carl mcgraw
Part of things
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Do it...
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Conrad
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Therapy Needed
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What's the advantage of bike carbs over EFI?
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The Gorilla
Part of things
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Hi,

Bike Carbs have fixed chokes correct ?

K-Jetronic is known for throwing fuel
down the 16v throat even when not
working correctly, causing fuel wash
to the bores etc.

How do you prevent fuel wash if using
Bike Carbs ?

What power level will/do Bike Carbs work
on the 16v ? as they were not over engineered
in the first instance so will have their
power iimits determined by what, their fixed choke ?

I am interested as I misunderstood this thread.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

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carl mcgraw
Part of things
[ *  * ]
the governing factor is the fixed choke size, yes..
using them as carbs, you won't get bore wash; CV carbs only pump in as much fuel as the (induction) engine demands, slide carbs are more temperamental, yes, but they really are for 'race only' where you tend to have the foot down almost all the time.
using them as butterflies, choose your ideal EFI injector and place it in the (newly-modified to suit) seat; place your butterfly at your pre-determined position of choice and hey presto...map away (yes, other than the x million other things to do when you 'go EFI'...I know...)...
I'm not sure now I understand your confusion..???

And power levels? Dunno...have a go and tell us ;-)
Edited by carl mcgraw, Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:29 pm.
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The Gorilla
Part of things
[ *  * ]
Hi,

Carl Mcgraw- many thanks for taking the time
to reply.

My confusion is this-

If you use these Bike Carbs as the ''Butterflies''
only and retain the existing 16v Injector position,
then the spacing bewteen the carbs will different
for the 16v Manifold than the Bike.

ie ] each carb [butterfly] now sits on a shortened/cut runner.

This then means that the linkage between the
carbs has to be altered, extended, whatever.

So my point was how are you going to syncro
or recalibrate them now that they have been
altered ?

If you have ever tried to re-calibrate the
std 4 butterflies to a set of std TB's
using the original linkage, then you
will know how difficult this is.

If the Carbs are not in absolute syncro
then all the mapping in the world
is not going to make the car run correctly.

This was my original point.

Slides if linked are easy to calibrate,
but butterflies acting upon an
re-configured linkage will be a whole
new ball game.

Regards,

The Gorilla.
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carl mcgraw
Part of things
[ *  * ]
make a new spindle ;-)
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carl mcgraw
Part of things
[ *  * ]
I use a very good carb balancing tool too; 4 tube so 4 seperate vac feeds = very finite control.
I balance left pair, right pair then centre...that helps ;-)
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