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| Powder coat or Galvanized ? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:40 pm (802 Views) | |
| coachwhip | Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:40 pm Post #1 |
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Part of things
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As I can't get to my car easily to strip off the SLS and do welding repairs then I might as well get started on the spare subframe I've got (thanks Phil). It's got new link bars and looks in very good condition but a couple of bushes are shot. I'm thinking of getting it galvanized or powder coated as I collect parts from companies that do both so should hopefully get a discount. Which of the two would you lot recommend ? Also are the any mods that I would be advised to do now while it is out ? I'd like to improve suspension and braking before it goes on the road so my be an ideal time to stock up on bits. Is the evo rear sway bar the way to go ? Also how easy are the bushes to remove as the main subframe ones look new so no point in destroying them to get the job done. Also (sorry for many questions), are these special bolts for adjusting the rear suspension, as I'm fairly sure my old frame has just normal bolt heads. ![]() ![]() I will get the pipes off the SLS for you Richy190e, just waiting till we get other iveco on road so we can move workshop around, plus my friends rally sunbeam is a priority as we must get that finished for a Help the Hero's charity show next year. So not enough spare axle stands for mine. Mike Edited by coachwhip, Sun Oct 25, 2009 1:19 pm.
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| olliecampbell | Sun Oct 25, 2009 6:19 pm Post #2 |
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Part of things
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I think it'll depend on the final look you're after. Powder coating will keep it the original black look...you can also get the powder coater to etch primer it first for better rust protection. I was going to suggest bushes, seems you're already on the case
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| alogaparaloga | Sun Oct 25, 2009 8:07 pm Post #3 |
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crazy mind
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A proper job would require a full strip down, sand blasting or shot blasting, welding in areas affected by rust to reinforce them, then galvanizing and as for the paint do what ever you wish. I suppose that you can still do powder coating after galvanizing. I would work the rear hubs and rotor shields at the same time so the rear end will have a proper repair, and you will have peace of mind for many years. |
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| Stempies | Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:30 am Post #4 |
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Hot Lips
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What about Hammerite type paint & Waxoyl, easier & cheaper!! |
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| alogaparaloga | Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:13 am Post #5 |
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crazy mind
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Waxoil is not good for delicate components. it really does the job for big flat surfaces, but I personally prefer to avoid it. Regarding Hammerite, I know that many people used that on cars but I was not happy when I used it to a less harsh environment than underneath a car. Always a full treatment with blasting and/or chemical bath and hot galvanizing afterwards gives better protection. Don't forget that galvanized metals can be exposed to any weather conditions and will last longer without any maintenance. |
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| Martrider | Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:17 am Post #6 |
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Longest build time in history?
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I would suggest a good acid dipping and then checking for any really bad pitting from rust, and then black enamelling as it is supposed to be a much better protection. Sets rock hard and it bonded to the surface. Powdercoating is as much stuck to it's own molecules as it is stuck to the work piece, which is why in a couple of years it tends to flake of in big pieces. I must say, i've not seen those type of bolts on any Merc subframes so i would surmise that it has been apart before (Could this indicate a previous problem? damage?), but, i wish my one was as easy to strip as that looks! I spent about 3 hours last weekend trying to get it all into bits with all kinds of airtools etc, gallons of WD and big hammers and at least 5 of the bolts just do not want to play. ![]() Might have to cut through the driveshafts to remove the LSD, and then refurb the subframe that is already on the project car. Yours should look lovely when it's done.
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| coachwhip | Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:40 am Post #7 |
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Part of things
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Thanks for the advice. Looks like I will looking at galvanizing then. Depends on how much they want to charge but in no hurry at all. The subframe came off philj's car I believe, it had all new link bars though there was accident damage to one and the bottom arm. Looking at those bolts wondering if they were part of a camber/castor kit ? to make it easier to alter ? If not then I may replace all the bolts anyway. Mike |
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| bazfj40 | Tue Oct 27, 2009 4:29 pm Post #8 |
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[url]http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1120a10cq6.jpg[/url]
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i havent seen a bolt like that on mine maybe an upgrade, think the only adjustment now is on that bottom arm in the pic at the inner end as new top arms are made to just fit and bolt up ,i asked about this before as earlier cars had more than one adjuster bolt on the arms but if you buy a new one now its already built in the arm and you just fit it and bolt it up as i have said, think i will be corrected if im wrong lol. |
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