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| Beefed-up ARB; How...? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mon Nov 2, 2009 12:16 pm (1,020 Views) | |
| RobertE | Mon Nov 2, 2009 12:16 pm Post #1 |
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Serial victim...
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I have bought a pair of ARBs to fit to Bertha. They are apparently a bit too long and need shortening in order to fit a valver. They are from a 300E. Someone will have done this, but where and how do I shorten them? I know it's a silly question, but as they are basically torsion bars, I'm nervous of wrecking their rigidity. But I'm told it's often been done! |
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| matsalleh76 | Mon Nov 2, 2009 12:40 pm Post #2 |
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Matsalleh76. RIP. Gone But Never Forgotten.
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Just cut off the about 3/4" - 1" from each end. bobf. |
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| Big Ben | Mon Nov 2, 2009 3:12 pm Post #3 |
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Sneaky 2.5-16 Driver!
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As above, but, as always, take off a little at a time as its easy to cut off but hard to put back on!
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| RobertE | Mon Nov 2, 2009 3:28 pm Post #4 |
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Serial victim...
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Thanks, chaps - does anyone have a picture of the business ends of an ARB? I've had a look at the exploded diagram on the Russki site and it looks to me as if you could bend it with a bit of heat (provided you re-tempered it afterwards). Has anyone tried this? Any Blacksmiths out there? Edited by RobertE, Mon Nov 2, 2009 4:43 pm.
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| Mohammad | Mon Nov 2, 2009 6:00 pm Post #5 |
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weneakhborz
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does the ARBs from the 300Es give the desired results on a 190? i mean are they that good?or should i consider the ones from 500Es? |
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| kentronix | Mon Nov 2, 2009 7:17 pm Post #6 |
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I'm only really here for the Kitchens
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I have a 300e front rollbar on my 190e, although I didnt fit it myself, really stiffens it up. They are very thick, I would say chopping the end off is a better bet than bending the ends. Obviously you need larger rubbers, which is how I found out mine had been changed
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| jeremy | Mon Nov 2, 2009 7:19 pm Post #7 |
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Too Far Gone To Help
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The ones from a 300 TE are supposed to be very good . I have one from a C63 that is like a train rail .. It's very heavy and thick ..Jeremy |
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| Will | Mon Nov 2, 2009 9:17 pm Post #8 |
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Highly Addicted
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Whichever bar you buy/use, make sure it's in good condition. Sounds obvious, but most secondhand ones that are ~ 20 years old are pretty knackered by now. The coating (plastic/powdercoat?) wears where the bushes sit, the bar begins to rust and it'll ruin a new set of bushes in months. Needs to be a smooth surface - rusty/rough metal won't do. Will |
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| RobertE | Mon Nov 2, 2009 9:38 pm Post #9 |
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Serial victim...
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Thank you for that, Will; this ia all part of the great project, to build a Hillclimb car without having to fork out for a Judd V8... |
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| Will | Mon Nov 2, 2009 9:41 pm Post #10 |
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Highly Addicted
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If it's of interest/use, I have a file somewhere listing all of the part numbers/specs for many of the various MB anti roll bars used - I think it was from a W124 reference, but useful all the same if you'd like to compare the various thicknesses/models etc. Will |
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| nezamr | Mon Nov 2, 2009 9:41 pm Post #11 |
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Part of things
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if anyone needs one, i have a brand new available. |
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| Will | Mon Nov 2, 2009 9:48 pm Post #12 |
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Highly Addicted
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This might be of use for all of you looking at upgrades: http://www.2phast.com/500e/techdocs/124_swaybars_specs.pdf HTH, Will |
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| Mohammad | Mon Nov 2, 2009 11:21 pm Post #13 |
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weneakhborz
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thanks a lot,mate. |
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| Nathan | Tue Nov 3, 2009 12:13 am Post #14 |
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Nordschleife Taxi
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Its from an w124 E60 AMG.
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| jeremy | Tue Nov 3, 2009 11:58 am Post #15 |
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Too Far Gone To Help
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There you go ...Jeremy |
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| Neil | Tue Nov 3, 2009 12:12 pm Post #16 |
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Newbie
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Well I've got one from an Intercity 125, so there. |
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| Big Ben | Tue Nov 3, 2009 12:20 pm Post #17 |
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Sneaky 2.5-16 Driver!
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^^^
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