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190E Stalling in Drive; 190E Stalling after 5 minutes driving, e
Topic Started: Tue Nov 24, 2009 7:39 am (3,260 Views)
eennoo
Newbie
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Hi,

I have a very frustrating problem with a 190E I've had 10 years.

It is running fine driving normally for the first five minutes. BUT then it will start to stall. This will happen when at low speed (turn a corner, taking off from a traffic light) as you accelerate. Give it a normal amount of accelerator and it will stall. Just give it a delicate amount of accelerator and if you're delicate enough you will get moving. Once moving it is happy enough, though a heavy acceleration will make it chug once you have it at speed. Now it gets worse, 10 minutes after starting (from cold) if it stalls, its almost impossible to get it moving forward again. It appears slightly easier to get it going in reverse, but still wants to stall. Put the stick into neutral or park at this point and the engine will happily do whatever revs you ask of if. But put it into drive and it will stall.

Once cool, ie the next day, you can replicate the same circumstances. I.e. will drive normally for the first five minutes then start stalling and then get progressively worse and stall more and more. But engine will always start and in neutral or Park will rev perfectly to whatever you ask of it.

Fuel pump, fuel filter, accelerator cable and spark plugs have been replaced in an attempt to remedy problem. Fuel tank has been drained, Radiator has been flushed.

Because the engine will run beautifully for at least half an hour in either park or neutral, never stall and I can "rev the nuts off it", my thinking is something between the transmission and engine. Maybe a sensor, vacuum, control pressure cable?? Problem is I'm not that cluey on how these things relate and why problem worsens with warming up.


Cheers all suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks from down under.


Engine number: 10296122055621
VIN: WDB 2010242F070934
Built Jan1985.
It is an automatic.
2.0 litre (4 Cylinder)
Petrol
Fuel injected.
Normally aspirated (i.e. no turbo)
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jeremy
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Hi & welcome to our site , I get a similar problem with my 320-24V CE , I have been advised to look at the fuel pump relay , they start to go after 20 years or so , some times just tapping it will get you started again .


Jeremy
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eennoo
Newbie
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Hi Jeremy,

Thanks. I don't need to tap anythink, I just put it back into neutral or park and the engine starts up everytime beautifully. It idles perfectly. It will rev beautifully also. Put it back into Drive and give it some accelerator and it will just stop, stall. The longer it's been running the quicker it will stall. After 10 minutes running there's little chance of getting it moving in Drive. That's the frustration the engine runs well except in Drive.

When its just started it all seems good nice take off, good gear changes, quite smooth. Its starts to happen after 5 mins, once the engine warms up.

Cheers,

eno
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shrekky
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just a thought ;) the gearboxes on these cars uses vacuum pipes from the engine,i dont think it the vacuum pipes are the fault,as it doesnt affect tick over,i could be wrong,maybe something you can check,but i would be changing the oil and filter in the gearbox,if that didnt work maybe having the vacuum unit on the gearbox checked out,as it may have a fault that only appears when selecting gears..............either letting air in or starving the engine by demanding to much of the vacuum.....................just food for thought ;)


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eennoo
Newbie
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Hhmmm thanks Shrekky, gets me thinking.

Problem I have with thinking its a vacuum issue is that it runs faultlessly for the first 5 minutes. It's only when it warms up that it starts to play up. I once let it idle for a half hour to an hour while I flushed the radiator and same problem occurred. My initial thought was torque converter as I think it would be moving when engine idles and so would warm up also. (However I think the auto's heat exchanger uses the radiator coolant and so all the tansmission oil would warm up) But a couple auto transmission guys here in OZ didn't think the torque converter would fail this way.

I just looked at the Russian diagrams for a 102.961 engine, (That this brilliant site links to) and although my russian isn't that good it appears the torque converter is a separate unit to the transmission. (Although it shows no internals of the converter)

Anybody had any problems with a torque converter going U/S? What symptoms occur? Any Auto transmission experts about? (zoomer46??)

Hopefully I'm barking up the right tree.

eno
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shrekky
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eennoo
Wed Nov 25, 2009 4:33 am
Hhmmm thanks Shrekky, gets me thinking.

Problem I have with thinking its a vacuum issue is that it runs faultlessly for the first 5 minutes. It's only when it warms up that it starts to play up. I once let it idle for a half hour to an hour while I flushed the radiator and same problem occurred. My initial thought was torque converter as I think it would be moving when engine idles and so would warm up also. (However I think the auto's heat exchanger uses the radiator coolant and so all the tansmission oil would warm up) But a couple auto transmission guys here in OZ didn't think the torque converter would fail this way.

I just looked at the Russian diagrams for a 102.961 engine, (That this brilliant site links to) and although my russian isn't that good it appears the torque converter is a separate unit to the transmission. (Although it shows no internals of the converter)

Anybody had any problems with a torque converter going U/S? What symptoms occur? Any Auto transmission experts about? (zoomer46??)

Hopefully I'm barking up the right tree.

eno
it could still be the vacuum lines/unit ................when you start it,for the first few minutes the cold start injector is engaged,providing extra fuel (just like a choke) .the engine wont be as sensitive to vacuum issuses while the cold start is engaged,but as soon as it drops out,that when the engine becomes more sensitive and would start effecting it.

somebody had the same problem a while back,and iniatially i had said torque convertor,but it turned out to be the vacuum lines to the gearbox,the were hardened and cracked

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eennoo
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Thanks again shrekky. It does start and rev beautifully when its warmed up though. I guess under load is a different story. Will check those lines and replace ignition module next.
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