Coolant Leak

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Coolant Leak; How to find?
Topic Started: Mon Feb 1, 2010 3:08 am (287 Views)
wish91	Mon Feb 1, 2010 3:08 am Post #1
Newbie Posts: 28 Group: Members Member #5,163 Joined: January 22, 2010	I have a coolant leak, previous owner said it was the waterpump i was just wondering what steps i should do to find out exactly where it is? Run the car and try and see it leaking??? Btw it is an 1989 190e 2.6



chrismatheou	Mon Feb 1, 2010 4:49 am Post #2
Enthusiast Posts: 2,333 Group: Members Member #789 Joined: January 4, 2007 Colour / Year / Engine Black/1992/2.5d 5cyl manual	Check that the oil cap doesn't have anything that looks like mayonnaise and that the coolant bottle doesn't have any oil first to rule out any head gasket problems. Other than this all you can do is visually inspect and feel underneath the pump and all the hoses.



jeremy	Mon Feb 1, 2010 8:10 am Post #3
Member Posts: 8,943 Group: Members Member #2,018 Joined: December 9, 2007 Colour / Year / Engine Smoke Silver 1989 2,5-16V Anthracite 1991 3.6	chrismatheou Mon Feb 1, 2010 4:49 am Check that the oil cap doesn't have anything that looks like mayonnaise and that the coolant bottle doesn't have any oil first to rule out any head gasket problems. Other than this all you can do is visually inspect and feel underneath the pump and all the hoses. Yup , what Chris said plus you can warm the car up and see if there is any steam coming from anywhere . Jeremy



balamb37	Mon Feb 1, 2010 11:41 am Post #4
Old and Active with Dog Posts: 1,838 Group: Members Member #3,881 Joined: February 25, 2009 Colour / Year / Engine Asphault Grey, Nov.1989. 2Ltr. Auto.	And rub your finger under the water pump to see if any coolant is coming from the little hole underneath the WaPu. if so then it will be the WaPu inner seal that is not repairable, calls for a new WaPu.



chrismatheou	Mon Feb 1, 2010 1:20 pm Post #5
Enthusiast Posts: 2,333 Group: Members Member #789 Joined: January 4, 2007 Colour / Year / Engine Black/1992/2.5d 5cyl manual	Also worth noting that loosing coolant may be down to a leaky heater matrix which I hope isn't the case with yours mate.



wish91	Mon Feb 1, 2010 10:28 pm Post #6
Newbie Posts: 28 Group: Members Member #5,163 Joined: January 22, 2010	chrismatheou Mon Feb 1, 2010 4:49 am Check that the oil cap doesn't have anything that looks like mayonnaise and that the coolant bottle doesn't have any oil first to rule out any head gasket problems. Other than this all you can do is visually inspect and feel underneath the pump and all the hoses. I checked my oil cap and its fine, no oil in coolant. I ran my car and watched for steam anywhere but no such luck, i couldnt see a leak anywhere either. its strange it leaks alot very quick but theres never spots on my driveway? It was making very strange noises periodically when driving as well.



Security2U	Mon Feb 1, 2010 10:51 pm Post #7
Member Posts: 135 Group: Members Member #4,589 Joined: September 2, 2009	Hello. I had a coolant leak aswel it was down to the waterpump so that was swapped for a new one but the leak was still there dripping on to my garage floor easy for me to see as its bright green anyway my coolant in the coolant bottle was not leaking passed the senser so said what the hell ill top it up that was a week ago and there is no coolant lose till this day.



protearose	Tue Feb 2, 2010 12:18 pm Post #8
Member Posts: 111 Group: Members Member #2,058 Joined: December 22, 2007	Hi. Make sure the pressure cap on the header tank is holding the pressure. It may have been leaking but only when the engine is running at operating temperature when you are driving so you wouldnt notice. I had the same loss of water until I fitted a new cap.



wish91	Tue Feb 2, 2010 9:38 pm Post #9
Newbie Posts: 28 Group: Members Member #5,163 Joined: January 22, 2010	protearose Tue Feb 2, 2010 12:18 pm Hi. Make sure the pressure cap on the header tank is holding the pressure. It may have been leaking but only when the engine is running at operating temperature when you are driving so you wouldnt notice. I had the same loss of water until I fitted a new cap. Hmm ill check it out but i was just wondering... where exactly is the heater tank (1989 190e 2.6)



stwat	Tue Feb 2, 2010 11:28 pm Post #10
Wibble Posts: 16,603 Group: Admin Member #28 Joined: November 11, 2005 Colour / Year / Engine Smoke Silver / 1988 / 2.3-16	The 'header' tank is where you check and fill the coolant. Its behind the washer bottle tank on the left hand side



wish91	Wed Feb 3, 2010 12:50 am Post #11
Newbie Posts: 28 Group: Members Member #5,163 Joined: January 22, 2010	stwat Tue Feb 2, 2010 11:28 pm The 'header' tank is where you check and fill the coolant. Its behind the washer bottle tank on the left hand side yes header tank cap is fine, im starting to think i might jst have to shell out the $ for a dealership fix ....



jeremy	Wed Feb 3, 2010 6:33 am Post #12
Member Posts: 8,943 Group: Members Member #2,018 Joined: December 9, 2007 Colour / Year / Engine Smoke Silver 1989 2,5-16V Anthracite 1991 3.6	wish91 Wed Feb 3, 2010 12:50 am stwat Tue Feb 2, 2010 11:28 pm The 'header' tank is where you check and fill the coolant. Its behind the washer bottle tank on the left hand side yes header tank cap is fine, im starting to think i might jst have to shell out the $ for a dealership fix .... Not yet ...... keep trying our suggestions until all hope is lost Is it leaking only in traffic , or maybe only after what some would call "spirited driving " Jeremy



aemt	Wed Feb 3, 2010 7:42 am Post #13
Member Posts: 3,889 Group: Members Member #3,171 Joined: September 1, 2008	Too soon to go to the dealership. Go through logically. Fill up the header tank to the full level. remove the sump guard, lift the carpet back on the passenger side remove the scuttle tray that sits over the heater blower motor. Then before you start the engine check the ends of all pipes and wipe with a coth to make sure dry. Also look for white sediment build up which is a sign that a joint has been leaking. Put newspaper under the car right back to behing the front wheels the nswitch the engine on and let the cr get up to running temp and let it run for 20 minutes. Keep checking the paper for discharge and watch all the joints including the heater conections.If no leaks and water level remans full take the car for a 20 minute run and see if you lose water then. Do not assume the filler cap is ok. it is cheap enough to replace if you are not sure. Same with water pump. Report back and let us know



wish91	Wed Feb 3, 2010 10:41 pm Post #14
Newbie Posts: 28 Group: Members Member #5,163 Joined: January 22, 2010	aemt Wed Feb 3, 2010 7:42 am Too soon to go to the dealership. Go through logically. Fill up the header tank to the full level. remove the sump guard, lift the carpet back on the passenger side remove the scuttle tray that sits over the heater blower motor. Then before you start the engine check the ends of all pipes and wipe with a coth to make sure dry. Also look for white sediment build up which is a sign that a joint has been leaking. Put newspaper under the car right back to behing the front wheels the nswitch the engine on and let the cr get up to running temp and let it run for 20 minutes. Keep checking the paper for discharge and watch all the joints including the heater conections.If no leaks and water level remans full take the car for a 20 minute run and see if you lose water then. Do not assume the filler cap is ok. it is cheap enough to replace if you are not sure. Same with water pump. Report back and let us know Due to the fact i ahve no coolant ill try your suggestions tommorow for sure, thanks youve been a great help.... and also whats the sump guard??



Security2U	Wed Feb 3, 2010 10:52 pm Post #15
Member Posts: 135 Group: Members Member #4,589 Joined: September 2, 2009	Also try and buy a bottle of bright looking coolant it will make it easyer to find the leak.



chrismatheou	Wed Feb 3, 2010 11:36 pm Post #16
Enthusiast Posts: 2,333 Group: Members Member #789 Joined: January 4, 2007 Colour / Year / Engine Black/1992/2.5d 5cyl manual	wish91 Wed Feb 3, 2010 10:41 pm aemt Wed Feb 3, 2010 7:42 am Too soon to go to the dealership. Go through logically. Fill up the header tank to the full level. remove the sump guard, lift the carpet back on the passenger side remove the scuttle tray that sits over the heater blower motor. Then before you start the engine check the ends of all pipes and wipe with a coth to make sure dry. Also look for white sediment build up which is a sign that a joint has been leaking. Put newspaper under the car right back to behing the front wheels the nswitch the engine on and let the cr get up to running temp and let it run for 20 minutes. Keep checking the paper for discharge and watch all the joints including the heater conections.If no leaks and water level remans full take the car for a 20 minute run and see if you lose water then. Do not assume the filler cap is ok. it is cheap enough to replace if you are not sure. Same with water pump. Report back and let us know Due to the fact i ahve no coolant ill try your suggestions tommorow for sure, thanks youve been a great help.... and also whats the sump guard?? The sump guard is the plastic engine undertray that has to be removed in order to change the oil in the car. Tbh it wouldn't be surprising if yours has gone adrift like a few of us. As lazy mechanics don't put them back on. The tray should come off with just 4 screws iirc.



stwat	Thu Feb 4, 2010 12:21 am Post #17
Wibble Posts: 16,603 Group: Admin Member #28 Joined: November 11, 2005 Colour / Year / Engine Smoke Silver / 1988 / 2.3-16	chrismatheou Wed Feb 3, 2010 11:36 pm wish91 Wed Feb 3, 2010 10:41 pm aemt Wed Feb 3, 2010 7:42 am Too soon to go to the dealership. Go through logically. Fill up the header tank to the full level. remove the sump guard, lift the carpet back on the passenger side remove the scuttle tray that sits over the heater blower motor. Then before you start the engine check the ends of all pipes and wipe with a coth to make sure dry. Also look for white sediment build up which is a sign that a joint has been leaking. Put newspaper under the car right back to behing the front wheels the nswitch the engine on and let the cr get up to running temp and let it run for 20 minutes. Keep checking the paper for discharge and watch all the joints including the heater conections.If no leaks and water level remans full take the car for a 20 minute run and see if you lose water then. Do not assume the filler cap is ok. it is cheap enough to replace if you are not sure. Same with water pump. Report back and let us know Due to the fact i ahve no coolant ill try your suggestions tommorow for sure, thanks youve been a great help.... and also whats the sump guard?? The sump guard is the plastic engine undertray that has to be removed in order to change the oil in the car. Tbh it wouldn't be surprising if yours has gone adrift like a few of us. As lazy mechanics don't put them back on. The tray should come off with just 4 screws iirc. Totally unrelated and no help at all to the original issue but, the engine under tray doesn't need to be removed to change the oil It has a cut out to allow you to change the oil with it in place.



chrismatheou	Thu Feb 4, 2010 12:44 am Post #18
Enthusiast Posts: 2,333 Group: Members Member #789 Joined: January 4, 2007 Colour / Year / Engine Black/1992/2.5d 5cyl manual	Nice one Stu, you learn something new everyday. I shouldn't be making assumptions like that when I don't actually have one myself



jeremy	Thu Feb 4, 2010 7:57 am Post #19
Member Posts: 8,943 Group: Members Member #2,018 Joined: December 9, 2007 Colour / Year / Engine Smoke Silver 1989 2,5-16V Anthracite 1991 3.6	stwat Thu Feb 4, 2010 12:21 am chrismatheou Wed Feb 3, 2010 11:36 pm wish91 Wed Feb 3, 2010 10:41 pm aemt Wed Feb 3, 2010 7:42 am Too soon to go to the dealership. Go through logically. Fill up the header tank to the full level. remove the sump guard, lift the carpet back on the passenger side remove the scuttle tray that sits over the heater blower motor. Then before you start the engine check the ends of all pipes and wipe with a coth to make sure dry. Also look for white sediment build up which is a sign that a joint has been leaking. Put newspaper under the car right back to behing the front wheels the nswitch the engine on and let the cr get up to running temp and let it run for 20 minutes. Keep checking the paper for discharge and watch all the joints including the heater conections.If no leaks and water level remans full take the car for a 20 minute run and see if you lose water then. Do not assume the filler cap is ok. it is cheap enough to replace if you are not sure. Same with water pump. Report back and let us know Due to the fact i ahve no coolant ill try your suggestions tommorow for sure, thanks youve been a great help.... and also whats the sump guard?? The sump guard is the plastic engine undertray that has to be removed in order to change the oil in the car. Tbh it wouldn't be surprising if yours has gone adrift like a few of us. As lazy mechanics don't put them back on. The tray should come off with just 4 screws iirc. Totally unrelated and no help at all to the original issue but, the engine under tray doesn't need to be removed to change the oil It has a cut out to allow you to change the oil with it in place. But you should remove it to drain the rad . Or else cobble up some kind of guard or funnel for it to drain into . Jeremy



wish91	Fri Feb 5, 2010 12:28 am Post #20
Newbie Posts: 28 Group: Members Member #5,163 Joined: January 22, 2010	aemt Wed Feb 3, 2010 7:42 am Too soon to go to the dealership. Go through logically. Fill up the header tank to the full level. remove the sump guard, lift the carpet back on the passenger side remove the scuttle tray that sits over the heater blower motor. Then before you start the engine check the ends of all pipes and wipe with a coth to make sure dry. Also look for white sediment build up which is a sign that a joint has been leaking. Put newspaper under the car right back to behing the front wheels the nswitch the engine on and let the cr get up to running temp and let it run for 20 minutes. Keep checking the paper for discharge and watch all the joints including the heater conections.If no leaks and water level remans full take the car for a 20 minute run and see if you lose water then. Do not assume the filler cap is ok. it is cheap enough to replace if you are not sure. Same with water pump. Report back and let us know Okay here it goes, so i put all suggestions into effect with the exception of filling header tank with fluid(no time o today but i will try again tomorrow), removed sump guard put newspaper underneath car etc... after all this i turned on a intended to run for 20min, after about 7min the header tank lid started to leak a bit, and also where the top and bottom parts of the header tank meet there is a little white sediment. So i let it keep running and after about 15min it started to idle strange, going from 7-8 down to 5 then up to 10? i was baffled but let it run for a couple mins, then as it got gradually got worse i got a bit scared and turned it off. Over half tank of gas and new spark plugs, any ideas??



aemt	Fri Feb 5, 2010 8:48 am Post #21
Member Posts: 3,889 Group: Members Member #3,171 Joined: September 1, 2008	You really need to make sure the header tank is correctly filled as you have no reference point to start from. Any obvious signs of leaking underneath the car? Have you checked the engine oil again to see that it is stil clean and no mayo. Certainly replace the header tank and cap. If they leak at tickover for short period they are shot. That will eliminate one thing. Did you check around the water pump and the heater matrix after you switched the engine off; and was there any signs of leakage on the newspaper? Do not assume that poor tickover and water are same problem. Keep tracking down the water leak and eliminate that as an issue As to tickover I see you have new plugs but what about the leads and particularly the dizzy cap.



wish91	Wed Feb 10, 2010 12:14 am Post #22
Newbie Posts: 28 Group: Members Member #5,163 Joined: January 22, 2010	Sorry havent been updating latley, ive been quite busy and only today have i had a chance to work on my car. Anyways, ive removed everything attached except two lines on the right side. I think one was seized im not sure what it is for but it is near the middle and runs to a cylinder shape thing i think has somethin to do with the A/C?? i tried removing it at the cylinder and it started to make a hissing sound so i stopped. The other is under the car near the bottom of the right side, not sure what it is but it is much larger than all the other lines. Anyone know what this is?



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