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Master cylinder problems.
Topic Started: Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:59 pm (807 Views)
Karlos28
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I have had problems with my clutch pedal dropping recently. So I went to the local motorfactors and got a replacement master and slave. I changed the slave and it didn't solve the problem, so a few weeks later iv come to change the master cylinder and it just WONT bleed up. So I put the old one In and it bled up fine. I went to where I baught it from and asked for a genuine merc one and he said 'febi' are who merc use for parts and another will be fine. So ordred a new one, tried it and it was the same. It dosent seem to push enough fluid and dosent build up any pressure. Do I need to pressure bleed it or is there a nifty tip for clutch bleeding? It's driving me mad and nearly isn't driveable!
Cheers
karl
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jeremy
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Too Far Gone To Help
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We are having the same problems with my 3.6 after changing from Auto to manual , the clutch just will not "Bleed up" or stay bled up .

Come on chaps , suggestions please ! ^o)


Jeremy

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alogaparaloga
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crazy mind
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Guys.

I am about to do the same job on my 190. That is master clutch and master brake cylinders.

I searched on the web and the secret is to prime (or bench bleeding) the cylinders before installation. The problem with piston pumps is always the same. they don't work properly until air is totally removed from the cylinders.
Edited by alogaparaloga, Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:13 am.
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Karlos28
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Oh god that will be a ball ache to get back on! Do you guys take the whole pedal box out to remove it? I found it the easiest way. So to bench bleed you mean fill the cylinders up fully with fluid first?
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alogaparaloga
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YES !!!!

The bench bleeding process has to be slow, to ensure that no air bubbles stick on cylinder walls.

fitment has to be done in a way that no air enters the inlet ports. Any air to the outlet ports will be removed by usual bleeding process.

The best thing would be the use of a bench bleeding kit or in other words clear tubing and a threaded fitting to the outlet port with push on fitting for the clear tubing.

You may try to find or make your bleeding kit and try to bleed the M/C installed. Access is limited but you may have a chance of doing it without removal.

Keep in mind that routing of pipe from M/C to S/C has many curves that can trap air, so pressure or vacuum bleeding would be easier





NOTE: I had to bleed a drained brake system system for a kit car and because of the routing I used an Easybleed kit and the driver was pumping the brake pedal slowly to assist removal of any air. The process took about two hours for the front brakes (Willwood calipers with 2 nipples per caliper) only.
Edited by alogaparaloga, Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:42 pm.
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Karlos28
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Right il give it another go in the week. Il try bleeding the m/c on it's own, then push the fluid from the slave with a syringe..
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alogaparaloga
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pushing fluid from slave towards master should work OK so before bleeding M/C itself try that. You are going to consume some fluid, so have someone to check the fluid reservoir for air bubbles and emptying it to avoid overflow.
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Karlos28
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yehh, il try that option first then. a friend suggested bolting the master in place with only the reservoir hose connected and a tub under the union outlet and bleed as normal until just fluid is being pushed, then attach the union and line then bleed some more. you recon its a good way to do it? sort of bench bleeding.
cheers!
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Karlos28
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pressure bleed kit solves all problems in about 30 seconds! buy one now before even attempting it!
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sparky190
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hmm good reading this. ive recently changed from auto to manual and the clutch pedal has always semmed a bit vague. I thought it might hav been the way that we bled it we done it the old fashioned way of pumping the pedal and then undoing the bleed screw.
This seemed to work but took ages and still this vague feeling. i might buy a pressure bleeding kit and try it with that.
That sounds like a better option as that will force all the air out. works ok tho!
ive got to do ahead gasket soon so ill do it at the same time as that!
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Ukmerctechie
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Dir is Kool. WKKP Forever!
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Handy hint #385
Buy yourself an oil can(Pump trigger type) and attach it tothe slave cylinder via some vac hose.
Fill it with brakefluid and open slave and master bleed screws.
Pump the fluid up the lines until it appears at the M/C.Tighten M/C bleed,and continue pumping.
You should see bubbles appearing in the reservoir,do this until the bubbles cease(about 10-15 pumps) and lock off the slave bleed whilst holding the trigger down.
Perfect clutch everytime.
Buy a new oilcan for this dont use and old one that has been used for oil.
Uses airs natural tendency to rise int he fluid as opposed to trying to force it agaist its usual direction of travel with the pedal pump/pressure bleed method( i have seen some pressur bleeders flip some M/C seals in the past.
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Karlos28
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Yeh I'd imagine that would work fine too. Think my pressure bleed kit cost 13 quid or sumat. As I said it worked spot on, I only used low pressure in the tyre coz I thaught it might wreck seals. Think it had about 15 psi in. I wish I'd had done it from the start and the footwell wouldn't be full of hydraulic fluid! Soaked my carpet too, wel the foam underneeth. :-(
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