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| Hopefully of some use; if your gearbox wont pull free! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sun Mar 14, 2010 11:50 pm (601 Views) | |
| Richy190E | Sun Mar 14, 2010 11:50 pm Post #1 |
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bubble bubble
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After a particularly tricky job which involved replacing a clutch on a 2.3-16v this week the gearbox came off the first inch but then no more, I pulled, twisted, pried shook and brought in hired help but to no avail - rather than keep going and risk damage to either myself, the customers gearbox etc I decided I needed someone with far more experience than I have of the matter so I gave Andy (ukmerctechie) a call as his knowledge is incredible, he quickly confirmed my suspicion that the spigot bearing had collapsed and jammed and advised me of his technique - unfortunately it wasnt obvious to me at the time just how and where this technique needed to be applied so I devised my own and thought I would share it with you as it was incredibly effective. The bearing will not be re-useable so order one in advance. You will need: A gearbox stand/cradle/beam/trolley jack etc *gearbox is Very heavy - safety first and is your own responsibility I am not responsible for your actions and am suggesting a method of removal which worked for me and may work for you* 1 Mtr of M10 threaded studding (studbar) 9x M10 nuts A hacksaw A new spigot bearing So the gearbox has withdrawn an inch but no more? what now, you are tired and now faced with this issue. Start by cutting the studbar, you will need 3 x 5inch pieces, thread a nut onto the bar before cutting and once cut grind a slight lead on the end and use the nut to clear the threads (like a tap), once you have got your studs thread 2x nuts onto the end of them all and lock them together, pass them through the casing of the gearbox using the original mounting holes. You will want one fairly low down each side (approx 4 and 8 o'clock) and one higher up. as you pass the stud through the casing before winding it into the engine side add another nut to the stud then carry on winding the stud into the engine block. now you should have 2x nuts on the outside of the casing, then the gearbox flange, a nut between the gearbox and engine. once in place hold the double nut to stop the stud rotating and begin winding the nut between the gearbox towards the rear of the car, bit-by-bit and evenly between the three studs and eventually the spigot bearing will give way and the box will be released - scattering remnants of bearing on the floor probably. I hope this makes sense but will try and arrange a picture when I get chance. Thank you for reading. Hopefully it will save someone a lot of time and energy. Richy Notes - The nuts on the outside of the gearbox are there for a reason. Firstly they give you a locknut to prevent the stud turning, second they provide a safety measure should the box' pop off and thirdly you will need them to remove the stud once the gearbox is free and ready to lower. If re-using the clutch please, please ensure all traces of old spigot bearing is recovered. As mentioned above, information is provided for reference only and may not work for your exact issue - everything else is down to you and if unsure please seek further advice. Edited by Richy190E, Sun Mar 14, 2010 11:58 pm.
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| alogaparaloga | Mon Mar 15, 2010 1:35 am Post #2 |
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crazy mind
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Very simple and effective solution Richy, Not for the DIYer though if the right tools are not available. Nice to share with us. Thanks |
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| Richy190E | Mon Mar 15, 2010 12:09 pm Post #3 |
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bubble bubble
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I imagine it would be quite daunting for a DIY'er yes if it saves someone a fair few hours grunting then I will be happy.
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| frank133 | Mon Mar 15, 2010 3:24 pm Post #4 |
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frank133
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Nice one Richy I would have resorted to the big crow bar method, It makes a lot more sense doing it with the stud iron, Not that I can see me doing a gearbox in the near future,after changing the auto box on mine last month, Which thankfully doesn't have a spigot bearing,
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if it saves someone a fair few hours grunting then I will be happy.
9:17 AM Jul 11