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| Sump plug replacement. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mon May 31, 2010 10:09 pm (2,047 Views) | |
| kentronix | Mon May 31, 2010 10:09 pm Post #1 |
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I'm only really here for the Kitchens
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I need to replace my sump plug, on both cars. These can be a real pain when the head starts to mash. Is there any reason why I shouldn't get one with a better or larger head ? Perhaps one that isn't made from cream cheese ? I plan to own the cars for a while and have no intention of ever tightening them. Can I get a deep head 15, one ? Or allen based bolt perhaps ? Obviously I change the washer each time and would ensure the face provides a good seal against that washer. I trust mb, but why make such an important bolt from cream cheese ? |
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| taint | Mon May 31, 2010 10:39 pm Post #2 |
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once upon a time
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so they can charge you for a new one with every oil change. but you can put a bigger one as long the bolt thread pattern is the same. |
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| kentronix | Mon May 31, 2010 10:58 pm Post #3 |
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I'm only really here for the Kitchens
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Excellent, any recommendations ? Either from another car or the thread pattern ? |
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| Richy190E | Mon May 31, 2010 11:03 pm Post #4 |
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bubble bubble
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basically if you get a new one and drill/tap it to M8 (not all the way through) and threadlock a small length of M8 studding into it and then fit 2xM8 nuts you will have a neverending sump plug, if the nuts round then you replace them
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| kentronix | Mon May 31, 2010 11:09 pm Post #5 |
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I'm only really here for the Kitchens
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interesting idea richy, I could probably drill and tap it with a reverse thread 8mm instead. Mind you, I think a 15mm head hardened bolt is easier. I have just done the oil change though so need to swap over for the new one without loosing all my lovely oily liquid gold
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| Will | Mon May 31, 2010 11:17 pm Post #6 |
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Highly Addicted
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Sump plugs shouldn't round off. The only time that they're likely to is where people have massively overtightened/carelessly removed them. Of course, you might well have inherited an already chewed-up and overtightened plug on a secondhand car, doesn't mean that it's MB or the bolt maker's fault that it has been incorrectly used. Can't remember the torque setting off hand but it's very low, 15 or 22 Nm? Only has to be very gently nipped, the copper crush washer forms the seal ![]() If the sump plus is getting put in so tightly that it's rounding off the head of a (13mm?) steel bolt, I wouldn't fancy the chances of a delicate alloy thread much better (the sump itself )All IMHO/experience of course ![]() Will |
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| Richy190E | Mon May 31, 2010 11:21 pm Post #7 |
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bubble bubble
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I agree Will, I've not rounded one myself but have had a few brought to me in a right mess and I have used the method above to remove them without risking breaking the sump by knocking 12mm sockets or Irwin extractors on or using a chisel to get it started. In my experience its an issue that affects all makes and all models dependant on the person fitting it so the design and material spec is fine just adhere to the torque figure and all will be ok in the future. |
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| Johnboy Mac | Mon May 31, 2010 11:24 pm Post #8 |
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More than part of things
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Don't get a sump plug with a larger head - very easy to over tighten. Stick with Merc one, nothing wrong with it. If the plug head starts rounding that's usually caused by excessive force when tightening/looseing it. There's a very good reason Merc designed as so, nothing to do with selling replacement plugs. Check the torque figure for the plug I'd bet it's actually quite low. Remember no problem pulling 100 lb ft with a one foot bar, a spanner of average length will pull 50 lb ft no bother. Edited by Johnboy Mac, Mon May 31, 2010 11:36 pm.
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| Richy190E | Mon May 31, 2010 11:31 pm Post #9 |
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bubble bubble
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but if you do want to replace it then this might help : http://www.acl.co.nz/Ecat/images/Drain%20Plug%20Catalogue.pdf |
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| Johnboy Mac | Mon May 31, 2010 11:35 pm Post #10 |
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More than part of things
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Just for reference. Merc spec. for sump plug is 25nm/18lb ft. |
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| kentronix | Mon May 31, 2010 11:40 pm Post #11 |
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I'm only really here for the Kitchens
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I have had 3 cars so far that have required major effort to remove the sump plug. Two I gave up on, and one I got out with irwins. So in theory you guys reckon if the plug is not overtightened then there should never be a problem ? When I tighten it I do it by feel and stop the second I feel the crush washer give. However the last guys that did it were spanner monkeys from up the road. And the other cars it was previous owners. I guess the moral of the story is get some irwins, and always replace it yourself
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| Richy190E | Mon May 31, 2010 11:45 pm Post #12 |
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bubble bubble
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The moral of the story is get a torque wrench But for 25nm you would be looking at using a 1/4" ratchet and 13mm socket and nipping it to make the seal.
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| blankcanvas | Mon May 31, 2010 11:56 pm Post #13 |
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Part of things
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just saw this on ebay is the thread right? Magnetic Drain Sump Oil Plug MERCEDES BENZ 190 2.3 2.6 ebay item 350289606118 |
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| kentronix | Tue Jun 1, 2010 12:17 am Post #14 |
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I'm only really here for the Kitchens
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I have a torque wrench although I also have confidence in my own ability to know when a washer is pinched. I certainly don't have confidence in the average mechanics ability though !!!!! So all these issues are down to torque settings ? I am not convinced the last place changed the washer either so they would have probably over tightened it as well. anyway, job done, I am convinced. Standard replacement will do
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| Ukmerctechie | Tue Jun 1, 2010 9:07 am Post #15 |
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Dir is Kool. WKKP Forever!
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Just to add,only ever use a 6 point socket/spanner to toghten/loosen them. Using a Bihex(12 point) spanner/socket will chew them to death. |
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