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| Head Gasket failing, repair uneconomical - drive to the death? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:41 pm (6,340 Views) | |
| Richy190E | Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:26 am Post #41 |
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bubble bubble
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You could always take the timing chest cover off? Pic from another thread
Edited by Richy190E, Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:28 am.
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| Rog | Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:39 pm Post #42 |
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Part of things
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I thought the sump had to come off anyway in order to remove the timing chain cover? I may remove it if the disc isn't in the sump or I can't see where it is lodged - just want to avoid unecessary work if possible. btw, I have a new timing chain and upper rail guide to go in; wondering about changing the tensioner rail - the current one looks fine; are they subject to much stress? |
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| Rog | Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:12 pm Post #43 |
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Part of things
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Not too much drama dropping the sump - one of the two bolts from the bell housing was bloody tight and I couldn't remove the drag link as the driver side refused to budge, so I just pivoted it out of the way (need to figure that one out - removed the nut no problem, but the bolt ain't shifting). I probably need another half inch of clearance to completely remove the sump, but I was able to get the disc of doom out. Just as well, as it was rightly wedged in to the timing chain gear. SO why not just bolt the sump back up, I hear you ask... Well here's an odd one - NO SUMP GASKET!! Nothing, no sign of liquid gasket, old gasket, paper gasket, Cornflakes gasket - nothing! If it stops raining, I'll nip out and take a few pics. Edited by Rog, Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:13 pm.
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| merc190uk | Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:15 pm Post #44 |
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The Godfather
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Well done on finding the disk, proves it was worth the hassle, could have been nasty if you had just gone for it. |
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| Rog | Fri Feb 3, 2012 7:46 pm Post #45 |
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Part of things
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Quick update... thankfully, on (very) close inspection, a very neat bead of liquid gasket had been used on the sump, so one mystery down. I'm just waiting for the weather to improve a bit before putting everything back together. ![]() Uploaded with ImageShack.us Spot the disc (also spot the large manifold bolt that I must also have knocked in and was totally unaware of - an ill wind etc.) |
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| Richy190E | Fri Feb 3, 2012 7:53 pm Post #46 |
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bubble bubble
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Bet you wish you'd never started eh? |
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| Rog | Fri Feb 3, 2012 7:56 pm Post #47 |
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Don't you just know it... Still, almost there. Here's the failed head gasket: ![]() gasket by RogK, on Flickr and the skimmed head: ![]() head by RogK, on Flickr |
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| simon82 | Fri Feb 3, 2012 8:25 pm Post #48 |
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Annoying Tw@t
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not that it helps as i'm 1300 miles away but had mine skimmed and fitted for £54 a few months back |
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| Rog | Fri Feb 3, 2012 8:50 pm Post #49 |
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Part of things
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The head skim (and thorough clean - it was thick with gunk) was €50, about the going rate in Dublin. The guy who did it also sourced an elring gasket (told me not to even consider using anything else!) |
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| Rog | Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:52 pm Post #50 |
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Part of things
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So everything back on tomorrow... just wondering; tensioner rail - replace or not? I do have a new rail, but it looks positively flimsy compared to the OEM one and I really REALLY don't feel like removing the timing case... OEM one is visibly worn though - scoring visible in the photo is maybe 0.3mm deep. Is failure common? Cheers. ![]() Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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| merc190uk | Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:06 am Post #51 |
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The Godfather
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great progress cant believe how many things ended up falling down there i think the one on ukmercmans failed have a look on his old posts for reference |
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| Rog | Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:18 am Post #52 |
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Cheers! It's amazing what dumb determination and a few cavity blocks can achieve... |
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| G3MAW | Mon Feb 13, 2012 3:55 pm Post #53 |
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Part of things
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Walk tall, Rog! That's one resurrected donkey. |
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| Rog | Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:24 am Post #54 |
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Part of things
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IT LIVES! What a bloody job... with the Head off, I decided to clean and grind the valves, do the valve stem seals, dismantle and clean the valve lifters... got the head back on, changed the injectors for refurbs, renewed the leak off hoses, new rocker cover/inlet manifold breather, cleaned absolutely bloody everything, new timing chain, new engine mounts, fan belt, fuel filters, new drag link, cleaned out sump, new sump gasket, changed hydraulic fluid, bled clutch and brakes, new power-steering filter and fluid, discovered a chronic diesel leak that absolutely f***ed my mother's driveway, new fuel hoses, reconnect everything, torque everything down, fan back on, rad back in... So here goes... cheapo oil in, water in, jump leads out, fingers crossed, fire extinguisher close to hand. And she's away! No smoke, let her run for 15 mins or so, then drain out the cheapo oil and refill & replace a 15 minute-old oil filter with a new one (probably for the best - both had a faint smell of anti-freeze when removed!). Discover water p***ing out of the heater connector by the oil filter housing... yep, forgot the 0-Ring. Can't find O-Ring, go into my scrap pile, dismantle banjaxed pressure washer, find appropriate seal, in it goes. So round two... coolant system is still oily as hell, so put a load of non-foaming non-salty detergent in, run for another 15 minutes, drain, flush, drain, flush, drain, flush... run some bloody expensive mercedes lemon juice (joke in there somewhere) through, drain, flush, drain, flush, drain, flush... finally running clear. And now... the car drives, no leaks but I think the idle is a fair bit rougher than it should be. All the cylinders are firing, all dampers are good, I've played a little with adjusting the idle but can't much improve on the vibration so still searching. I know I have glow plug issues (no dash light when starting, light on once started) and I think I may have air in the fuel, so going to double check hoses and clips tomorrow evening. Ball park-wise, do the 601s tend to shake at idle? Any other suggestions on what to check greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the help so far - inspired me to save the old beast rather than send her to the crusher. Cheers. |
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| kentronix | Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:48 am Post #55 |
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I'm only really here for the Kitchens
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If the glow plug light comes on after you fire up then you have at least one plug failing. Its possibly its the control unit but 9 out of ten its a failed plug, or the lead to it. Great news by the way glad to hear its running !! Edited by kentronix, Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:49 am.
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| tombance | Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:47 am Post #56 |
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Part of things
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Very well done! After disturbing the fuel system in such a drastic way you might find it takes up to 1000 miles for all of the air to work itself out of the system and the new injectors to 'settle down'. So, if you can't find any air leaks I would just drive it for a bit and see if it gets better. Definitely get that glow plug sorted out, but if it wasn't broken before maybe you've just forgotten to connect up a wire or something? |
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| Rog | Fri Apr 27, 2012 11:19 am Post #57 |
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I've replaced a few older jubilee clips; also discovered (the hard and very messy way) that the clear plastic line to the fuel filter was at the end of its life (currently bodged; cut the line at the tulip connector, sleeved the entire line with 8mm hose and clamped the hose to the connector). This definitely calmed down the idle. Probably about right now, but I reckon I'll get somebody who actually knows what they're doing (i.e. not me) to tune it all. I was very happy with how car was driving until it started p*ssing coolant into the passenger foot well last night; I'm not talking a drip here, but a bloody waterfall. I coaxed out the matrix connector at the passenger-side of the centre console, thought I had found the problem as the sealing ring was split. Replaced it with an O-ring, tightened it all back up... still pouring coolant! I must have been really mean to a Mercedes in a previous life... So this evening I reckon I'll just bypass the heater; really can't face a dash-out right now... (Sigh) |
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