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I need some help from the KE-Jet fellas. 1993 190E 1.8L (180E Aus pov pack)
Topic Started: Mon May 7, 2012 2:42 pm (1,212 Views)
Van De Franzen
Newbie
[ * ]
Hey guys, got some Internet diagnostic work for you all. Sigh I know. I hate putting this on you but I have no choice. I really need some help.

So I've recently come to the realization that its very likely that, my car has been running in a fault full retard mode on the EZL without its ECU or oxygen sensor functioning since I bought it. Signs and conditions that led me to believe this.

- The idle control does not work, idles at 1090-1110 hot, 700ish cold.
- It does not adjust idle accordingly when auxiliaries are turned on.
- The car had its mixture adjusted when I first bought it by an Indy Euro mechanic. I shortly after had to replace the radiator, followed by a head gasket and a bunch of ignition parts since then.
- New Rotor, Cap, leads, H8DCO Super plugs at 0.8mm gap.
- No abnormal oil consumption (within factory expectations).
- The car should in theory be running as new with a clean and refreshed head.
- Accidentally breaking the plastic sleeve on the thermostat vaccum line and then taping up the line as a temp measure did not affect performance, starting or anything.
- The duty cycle reading from the X11 diagnostics port, pins 3 (kejet) and 2(ground). Does not register a duty cycle on my automotive multimeter. No voltage reading either. Zilch.

- Its a well known fact that if you unplug the R16 resistor on the Australian 190e/180E 1.8 that it reads a fault code and goes into max retard. I unplugged it and there was zero difference in running conditions. Reports would suggest that I would lose some low down torque and be sluggish in general. It was the same.

- When aircon is on and steering is turned full lock in reverse, it will stall.

- Its thirsty around town, but okay on the highway. Classic mechanical K-jet consumption (I have a K-jet E21).

- As a result of a slightly rich air fuel, its okay to start cold, but often stutters before idling.

- Always struggles to hot start after sitting for a while though I am led to believe my accumulator is in good shape for a reason I have forgotten.

- plugs have always been a healthy light brown indicating a slight rich mixture.

- After changing to non resistor Bosch Plugs, I noticed a drop in fuel economy.

- I adjusted my base mixture a little leaner of late to combat my drop in fuel economy, and started realizing these signs as cold starting became more difficult.

- OVP relay fuses are fine and ive resoldered all contacts on the circuit board. Should be functioning as new.

- WOT enrichment doesn't appear to be functioning but the AFR's seem to be acceptable as I have it. I tested this by strapping it up a hill and then killing the ignition to pull off to the side of the road and check plugs. They are very clean, but not glazed or spotted on the ceramic indicating a lean condition but no detonation.

- The car runs and drives fine, but not to factory expectations.


I haven't checked hot running voltage to the 02 sensor (catalyst model) but my gut tells me that I will find no reading, whether its stuffed or not. Can someone enlighten me if I've missed anything here? Or am I in for an ECU replacement.

Thank you very much.

Hal
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balamb37
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Grumpy Old Grampa with Dog
[ *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Has it got a 'Cat' if so it could be blocked or maybe the 'Lamda Sensor' isn't working as that will put it in to 'emergency mode' ;)
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Van De Franzen
Newbie
[ * ]
Just so I got the Benz jargen down pat, the Lambda sensor being the narrow band 02 right? I don't think the cat is blocked, it would create far more performance restriction than it currently has I would imagine. The 02 sensor being shot is quite possible, but wouldn't it read a fixed value duty cycle reading eg: fault code through the diagnostics port?

I would at least get a voltage from the KE-jet surely!?
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jimbojones
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Forum idiot
[ *  * ]
Hi Hal,

Idle speed on the K-Jet is a nightmare as most people will tell you, there are a list of problems commonly associated with some can be checked for and unfortunately some can't, but usually questions about idle speeds often go unanswered because there is just too much to talk about, but here is a list of common problems that could give the symptoms your describing:

- Faulty Idle control valve
- Faulty throttle switch (sometimes called full load contact switch)
- Air flow potentiometers always go after about 150K or less if you have city miles
- Air flow mass sensor plates can get put out of place if you have a backfire or an engine that has experienced overheating problems
- OVP relay is another culprit you mentioned
- If someone has removed the ECU, Haynes tells us that static electricity can damage components even though not appearing damaged immediately,
- Lamda Sensor failure
- Vacuum hose leaks
- Air inlet manifold leaks and sealing issues

Luckily there is guides and tutorials on nearly all of the above topics; how to diagnose problems and how to fix them,
but you will have to search through old posts and work through the issues one by one eliminating them.
A good place to start is in the pinned topics in the engine section as this will start you off on how to diagnose problems and after you narrow it down and get a better idea of what might be wrong,

Good luck with it!
JJ
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