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| EMERALD K6 EFI installation on a Mercedes 190E 8 valve | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Tue May 28, 2013 1:24 pm (5,599 Views) | |
| alogaparaloga | Tue May 28, 2013 1:24 pm Post #1 |
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crazy mind
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I thought it was finally the time to add a write-up for my EFi instalation. I believe that most of the information are there but in case you have any questions please feel free to ask. and I will get back to you and update my process steps with more information. What I would like to mention is that the way I worked things on this car was not ideal, as I had to compromise between a daily workhorse and an ongoing project. I just describe what I have done based on my scope, schedule and resources. Hope you enjoy reading. Steps: 1.Install trigger wheel and sensor bracket The easiest way I could think to have less downtime with this car was to install the trigger in front of the crank pulley using a new crank bolt and a spacer. I sourced the wheel from trigger-wheels.com and then I got everything set on a lathe. So I removed some material from the trigger wheel to reduce its inertia and at the same time I got a spacer made to goon the bolt head to clear the crank pulley. I also drilled near the center of the wheel to install a pin to secure its position/alignment does not change over time with engine's transient operation. ![]() ![]() ![]() Bracket: I made my bracket as an extension of the alternator bracket and engine block.(pending photo) The bracket was one of the interesting bits as it had to be done in a way that clears the crank pulley and it also goes close enough to keep the sensor in a close distance to the teeth. 2.Install engine management I.(Electrical supply and sensor wiring) a.Find your wires on the car for +12 volt constant or switched hi amp. (On this one you want a clear stable voltage. Explained in ECU manual) b.Find a ignition switched +12 volt (that will trigger the ECU to switch on/off) I have both of the above steps done before the OVP relay with inline fuses wired. ![]() ![]() c.Tacho signal wire to keep your tacho in the cabin working and to activate factory fuel pump relay. I just connected the tacho signal out from ECU to the green/yellow wire in the fuel pump relay socket. The pin-out of the relay is as below: ![]() ![]() ![]() Up to this point you can still maintain your original fuel and ignition systems so as you don’t lose functionality of the car if that’s your only car to drive. That gives you the chance to do some very important checks on your system and familiarise yourself with it. Check point: Ignition signal pick up quality is good for the ECU. You will see the ECU Led to turn from Red to Green colour. If that happens your setup has been successful. If the Led remains red you have to adjust the sensor and you have to make sure that everything is very sturdy, nothing vibrates when the engine is running otherwise you lose crank reference position and ECU will not perform there. From this point onwards you will have to cut some sensors of the factory setup and feed your ECU. d.Coolant sensor I just used two diagonally opposed wires of the factory coolant sensor and everything was working fine. e.TPS (potentiometer type is required) I have this sorted by using a Volvo 3 pin sensor that I had around. My solution on this was not the best as the Volvo sensor was to thick and the securing clip on the plug had to be removed. Then I got a cable tie around the sensor and plug and both were held together in place. ![]() f.Wideband O2 For the wideband option I went with 2J1 as I found them to have a better reputation compared to Innovate entry level systems, and was cheaper too. ![]() g.Air Temp sensor Cut the wires of the factory sensor and used that sensor without any problems at all. II.Actuator wiring (Injectors, ignition coil, Idle valve, etc) a.Ignition Coil. I use a ford edis coil mounted on a bracket I made from an old distributor body and bolts directly were the spark plug leads end. The job is straight forward and the only thing that needs to change is the lead connectors on the factory leads. ![]() ![]() b.Injectors I went for a batch injection setup as there was simpler and does not require any advance tuning methods. So I wired injectors 1&4 and 2&3 on injector drivers 1 & 2 of the ECU respectively, c.Idle air Valve I left the idle air valve off initially and started with adjusting idle screw at the throttle body. Other than that Idle valve position mapping has to be left for later. 4.Tuning – To be added later Edited by alogaparaloga, Thu May 30, 2013 11:52 pm.
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| eldoncino | Wed May 29, 2013 6:20 am Post #2 |
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Well done mate, very interested to see this. Can't wait to hear how you get on with the K6 ecu. I'm converting my 16v to efi with emerald, hayabusa independant throttle bodies and edis 4 ignition. May I ask how you did the ht leads? Did you buy a custom set or make them from the old leads? Interesting solution for the trigger wheel too. I've ordered one of "the benz master" from 190rev's trigger wheels. All the best with it. Duncan |
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| alogaparaloga | Wed May 29, 2013 1:27 pm Post #3 |
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crazy mind
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Hi Duncan, Tuning is not a big problem. I finished the conversion in 4-5 days and then started looking on the logger to fine tune specific areas of the rev range and load. A there was no base map for my engine I used one of close power output and engine size supplied by Emerald. then I started driving the car, stoping on the road side correcting fuel and ignition and go on. While my car was not tuned perfectly and still not done by a professional tuner, I managed to get 118bhp on the crank with stock intake and exhaust manifolds and with fuel starvation problems at higher loads. After correcting the fuel by replacing the fuel injectors with bigger ones I got around 124bhp. On the ignition leads front, I just pulled the plugs off from the distributor side and crimped my Gen 1 plugs on. There is a major diameter difference on the wire OD so I fitted some sleeve on the Merc lead and added wiring loom tape in order to achieve a bit tighter fit on the Ford Gen 1 plugs. Before you do that it may be worth checking if the Ford Gen 2 coil can accept the Merc leads as they are, I believe Gen2 coil is of similar size as the distributor on the Merc. If that's the case you may don't need to change anything on the spark plug leads. On the Trigger wheel front Benz masters wheel is a very good solution. My approach has certain drwbacks like belt replacement requires VR sensor removal. If I was going to build a high revving engine I would go for a triger behind the pulley rather than the front, but the way I got mine it works OK and it was the lowest cost option too. |
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| eldoncino | Wed May 29, 2013 2:17 pm Post #4 |
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Thanks very much for the info, I've already bought an edis 4 coilpack, not sure which generation it is, but I do know the current leads won't fit it. I'm in no rush as, lucky for me, it's not my daily driver yet! Good to see you were able to get it running pretty well without having to take it to an expensive tuner for a day. Have you taken off the distributor completely, did you make up a blanking plug? I plan on starting with batch injection, however may use the insides of the distributor as a cam position sensor should I want to go to sequential later. Much respect. |
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| Haris | Wed May 29, 2013 6:23 pm Post #5 |
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This is brilliant, Thanks for posting this. I was also planning Hayabusa TB's |
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| c-wolf | Thu May 30, 2013 7:11 am Post #6 |
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Absolutely brilliant post. |
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| alogaparaloga | Tue Jun 4, 2013 5:23 pm Post #7 |
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crazy mind
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Thanks for the comments guys, I am still updating with photos where ever required but I will do a detailed update on tuning as soon as I finish my VFR ITB installation. Edited by alogaparaloga, Tue Jun 4, 2013 5:26 pm.
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| PJM01 | Mon Jan 6, 2014 11:36 am Post #8 |
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Interesting post, I'm considering going down a similar route. Although I may swap my slightly tired 1.8 lump for a 2.0 or 2.3 8v first. Nicely compiled notes & pics too - even a dumb-ass like me can follow it! |
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| alogaparaloga | Mon Jan 6, 2014 7:25 pm Post #9 |
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crazy mind
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If you go the route of both efi and engine swap it's worth looking at the M111 engines especially those that were supercharged as they are quite OK for the price and ready for accepting upto 1 bar boost without any modifications |
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| Der Baby Benz | Wed Feb 26, 2014 10:13 am Post #10 |
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May I ask what kind of injectors you are running? I'm not sure the 4-hole Bosch injectors I got with the SAAB fuel rail are the best option for an 8v engine. To my knowledge 4-hole injectors are designed for 16V engines, with two holes aiming at one inlet valve. My concern is that on an 8-valver these injectors spray anywhere but on the inlet valve. Regards, Costas |
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| alogaparaloga | Wed Feb 26, 2014 2:29 pm Post #11 |
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crazy mind
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The injection angles will not be so drastic. The 8V manifold injector bosses are at 35 degrees to the cylinder head face and very close to the valve too. If your concerns are about atomization of fuel I would say just don't worry because it will not have such a big effect. you can always source injectors that kneck down and move closer to the valve. In my case I currently use Honda VFR 800 injectors with 12 nozzles. These are made by Denso and I used them just because I had them in my garage. When I first modified the car I was using CBR600 injector but these were too small for the high loads of the engine, so I moved to the VFR ones that give 255cc/min. Ideally I would recommend that you use standard 14mm injectors as it will be easier to fit on the fuel rail and will have better seal to the manifold too. |
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| Der Baby Benz | Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:21 pm Post #12 |
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Alright then and thanks for the detailed reply, much appreciated ![]() Regards, Costas |
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| m600 | Fri Jun 22, 2018 10:49 am Post #13 |
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did this ever get finished? keen to see what performance upgrades were found |
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