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| Tweet Topic Started: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:22 pm (328 Views) | |
| horatio | Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:22 pm Post #1 |
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Part of things
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The car has been pinking quite badly for a while - especially when starting on hills (which I think is usual for pinking). Also on a very hot day on the north circ (in a traffic jam), the temp started to creep up way too high so I had to park the car up and get the tube home. Oil needs topping up a little bit. I flooded it by moving a little bit across the drive and then switching off, had to call RAC to get it to start again (with easy start) So I've taken it to a specialist, low and behold it starts to drive perfectly. Not pinking at the moment at all. Compression check was all ok. I'm thinking the weather getting cold is something to do with it. What's going on!? It had a cheap HG job about 2 years ago (no skim or stem seals) etc - maybe something odd is going on because of it and I need to get a proper job done with a head rebuild? Cheers for any thoughts. So frustrating, just want it back like it used to be! Edited by horatio, Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:28 pm.
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| Deleted User | Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:07 am Post #2 |
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Have someone check the fuel-air ratio feedback with a dwell meter. In my experience, if the needle on the meter bounces more than +/- 1, one of the sensors has gone bad. Particularly when the ECU-temp-sensor gets sloppy; the engine will "run", but the fuel management becomes poor. Mechanics often dismiss this sensor because "it is doing something" but I have found an old temp-sensor's outputs are 6-10 times slower, too little too late, have dead spots in the voltage output curve, and basically confuse the computer. Same is true for an old O2 sensor. |
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| horatio | Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:16 am Post #3 |
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Part of things
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Thanks charles - what is that sensor called? The O2 is new, first thing I tried for the pinking
Edited by horatio, Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:17 am.
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| Deleted User | Mon Nov 24, 2014 2:04 am Post #4 |
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I suppose it depends on Country, but here is called "Temp sender" by Mercedes, "ECU temp sensor" in a repair manual. Basically it has a variable output which increases with heat from 1 to 12 volts to the ecu. It is NOT the "temp-switch" that operates the radiator fans. You can bench test the sender, and you will get some output; but when you compare it to the instant and precise output of a new one, you would understand the difference immediately. Obviously I cannot guarantee this is the problem with your car, but when I replaced mine the fuel management cleaned-up more than significantly. Good luck. |
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9:20 AM Jul 11