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| 2.6 runs great and suddenly dies (solved); Idles great for about 5 - 10 minutes and dies after | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sat Jan 3, 2015 6:58 pm (754 Views) | |
| Jookoo | Sat Jan 3, 2015 6:58 pm Post #1 |
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Newbie
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Problem solved: Like eagle3 and balamb37 said it was either over voltage protection relay or voltage regulator. I changed them both and the problem was fixed! -------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a wierd problem with my 190. The car starts up on the first try and run about 1000 rpm for a while after dropping to about 750 rpm. It idles great, no shaking or other problems when the temp reaches about 50 celcius or about 5 - 10 minutes idling in the garage it just suddenly dies like the ignition has been switched off. Since it dies so smoothly I'm guessing it is electrical problem. Any ideas what could cause this? After it dies and I switch ignition on the fuel pumps surge multiple times, normally they should surge only once. I can start it but it dies right away. There is no gasoline in the intake manifold, I pressure tested the fuel distributor and it is ok (> 4.8 bar) and it holds the pressure over 2.5 bars for days so there is no leaks in the fuel system. Fuel pumps are new, accumulator is 2 - 3 years old, fuel filter is new, I cleaned the pre filter the is in the fuel tank. Injectors are 2 years old, both coolant temperature sensors are new. I measured the transformer and it is ok, so are the spark plug wires, I cheked and cleaned the rotor and distributor and changed the spark plugs. I measured and checked that the crankshaft position sensor is ok. I have tried it with different EZL and KE box also tried different fuel pump relay. I'm changing the OVP on monday when I can get a new one. Edited by Jookoo, Tue Jan 6, 2015 3:04 am.
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| eagle3 | Sat Jan 3, 2015 7:08 pm Post #2 |
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Therapy Needed
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Sounds like another voltage regulator problem. |
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| balamb37 | Sat Jan 3, 2015 7:47 pm Post #3 |
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Grumpy Old Grampa with Dog
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^^^ or a cold joint in the OVP or FPR. |
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| Jookoo | Sat Jan 3, 2015 8:54 pm Post #4 |
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Newbie
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eagle3: You mean the voltage regulator on the alternator? The alternator is new. balamb37: I opened both and didn't see any cold joints and I tested my car with a FPR from another car that runs perfectly and it made no difference. On monday I'm going to buy new OVP just to be sure. |
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| Gaz2N | Sun Jan 4, 2015 12:25 am Post #5 |
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Old Merc nutter
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Even though you've cleaned it my bet would be the dizzy cap. This is the classic sign of a failing cap. I'd also check the boot under the air flow meter as these can split. However this seems rare in an m103. The m102 ones seem to split far more often. Gary Edited by Gaz2N, Sun Jan 4, 2015 12:26 am.
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| twopointsix | Sun Jan 4, 2015 10:43 am Post #6 |
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Addicted
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Even though you've cleaned it my bet would be the dizzy cap. This is the classic sign of a failing cap. +1 |
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| jeremy | Sun Jan 4, 2015 11:21 am Post #7 |
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Too Far Gone To Help
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And if that doesn't do it , try the fuel distributor. It sounds like the fault I had on my 2.0L. Jeremy |
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| Jookoo | Sun Jan 4, 2015 1:02 pm Post #8 |
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Newbie
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I'll replace the VR tomorrow too it is 10 euros so not that big of a investment, just to be on the safe side. If that doesn't help I think I'll check/replace the dizzy cap too. I checked the boot and it is flexible and ok, no leaks there. I really doubt that it is the fuel distributor because if there was some fault with that I doubt that it would shutdown so nicely. If it was the FD I think it should leak or the engine should vibrate or run badly before shutting down. The engine shuts down like the key has been turned off, there is no vibration or changes in rpm. |
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| eagle3 | Sun Jan 4, 2015 1:15 pm Post #9 |
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Therapy Needed
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Did you buy a brand new Bosch alternator identical to the one that was replaced? Have you still got the old one? |
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| Jookoo | Sun Jan 4, 2015 6:42 pm Post #10 |
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Newbie
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Yes it is new bosch alternator and it is identical. I dont have the old one any more, I gave it to the shop where I bought the new one and got 80 euros discount. I was just checking the fuel system since I have changed the pumps and I measured them, one was 1.6 ohms and the other was 1.3 ohms. They are connected in parallel so there is 12 volts to them both, by calculating they are taking 16.7 amps together (I didn't measure the series resistance from the wire). I know they should be taking less than 10 amps. Does anyone know what kind of resistance value they should be? The are both new, less than 2 months old. Could this cause the FPR to cut off after a while? |
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| eagle3 | Sun Jan 4, 2015 7:01 pm Post #11 |
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Therapy Needed
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Each pump draws between 6 and 10 amps apparently. |
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| Jookoo | Mon Jan 5, 2015 8:51 pm Post #12 |
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Newbie
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I bought new VF, OVP, dizzy cap and rotor. Only installed the VF and OVP so far and it seems to have fixed the problem!! Don't know which one was the faulty part but it seems to have been one of them. I bought the new bosch alternator about 3 months ago and when I pulled the old VF out it was all corroded and didn't have any bosch markings on it, but the alternator has the markings. Heres a few fotos of the old VF, just to show it can go bad really quickly, in less than 3 months. http://postimg.org/image/gzbrz96od/ http://postimg.org/image/3smbzqaz1/ http://postimg.org/image/8fse1hybx/ Thank you all for helping me! Hope to return the favor some day! |
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| eagle3 | Mon Jan 5, 2015 10:08 pm Post #13 |
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Therapy Needed
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You were ripped off with the alternator I reckon. You probably only needed a new regulator for the original alternator which costs about €40 for a genuine Bosch one. And you don't even have to take the alternator off to change it on most models.
Edited by eagle3, Mon Jan 5, 2015 10:37 pm.
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| Jookoo | Mon Jan 5, 2015 11:33 pm Post #14 |
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Newbie
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The old alternator was bad, the bearing sound from it was awful. I could have fixed it with bearing kit etc but the new one was just 50 euros after the discount so I took the easy way out. The alternator in my car is that type where the fan is inside the alternator and not on the outside next to the belt pulley, in here at least they are more expensive. Thankfully the alternator is made by bosch but I really don't understand why there was some aftermarket VF in there. New genuine bosch regulator cost 25 euros to the alternator. Now the car runs, still need to short out some tuning for the engine because the idle hunts between 600 - 800 rpm once in three seconds but that shouldn't be a big problem. If some mod could change the topic title to solved it would be great since I apparently don't have permission to do that. Thanks again for all the help! I am really greatfull! Since english isn't my first language there might be some typos etc, just a heads up to anyone reading this topic! |
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