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My 190e is very hard to start when cold
Topic Started: Sun Oct 9, 2016 8:30 pm (2,206 Views)
Hu99u
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More than part of things
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Nope, they best changed the Cap and rotor arm, looks like it has been scraping for a long time
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Kameeli
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Alright i'll go pick up new cap and rotor tomorrow and see if that fixes any of the misfiring with cold engine
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griffin
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That distributor cap is in a poor condition - that will give poor running...


The OVP output is supposed to be 12v/battery voltage as far as I could see by googling - as G3MAW says - check the input voltages supplying the OVP
Edited by griffin, Sun Oct 23, 2016 1:09 pm.
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Kameeli
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replaced distributor cap and rotor, didn't change anything.
but about 50kms before changing it the car became VERY choppy when giving gas, feels like it's not getting any fuel/spark and like it just lost about 50hp..(new cap and rotor didnt help) filled the tank to half full and it was fine for 10 mins then it became choppy again. also when youre in 5th gear itll be jerking like a madman until about 4000rpm (like 140km/h) then its smoother
Edited by Kameeli, Mon Oct 24, 2016 2:08 pm.
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Hu99u
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Have you checked the condition on the coil?
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Kameeli
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I was going to buy a new coil aswell but it was out of stock so Ill get a new one when theyre back in stock, looks like the car still has the original coil aswell so I will have to change it and see if that fixes anything
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Kameeli
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also does anyone know where I can buy new breather hoses, definitely a leak in them cause when I sprayed brake cleaner on them rpms increased and current idle rpm is 1300 with warm engine.. almost twice of what its supposed to be
Edited by Kameeli, Mon Oct 24, 2016 9:03 pm.
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stwat
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You can still get the hoses from the dealers nice and cheap.
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Kameeli
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Here is a video of attempting a cold start
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCeJ6beSS_k

it almost wants to start on the first crank but then nothing happens anymore when you try to start it, it will start if you try to start it for a few minutes but it will be running very rough after it starts and rpms vary between 500-1000 for the first 5 minutes and there is a very strong fuel smell, then once the engine has been runnin for 5mins it will idle at exactly 1000rpm and also start like it should.
Edited by Kameeli, Fri Oct 28, 2016 5:09 pm.
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eagle3
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Old injectors. Possibly. Engine flooding(injectors pissing fuel rather than spraying)

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Kameeli
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eagle3
Fri Oct 28, 2016 5:15 pm
Old injectors. Possibly. Engine flooding(injectors pissing fuel rather than spraying)

If you have the throttle floored while trying to start it should start even if it was flooded right? because I tried that but it still didn't start

Tested doing what this guy showed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8WTmVp3G9U
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eagle3
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https://mercedessource.com/problems/fuel-delivery/improving-mileage-and-performance-your-older-cis-injected-benz-gas-engine
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Kameeli
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I still think its a fault with the cold start valve, i tried again today and it was clearly not opening the valve when I had it connected properly and tried to start the car, but when I connected + and - directly from battery it was squirting fuel exactly like it should, so what exactly is wrong since its not getting any power when I have it connected how it should be, ovp right? but I already have a new one and it didnt help
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Kameeli
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD7FLIrTW5M

there's a video of manually giving 12v to the CSV, car had sat for way over 24 hours and it fired up like new when applying power to the cold start valve, and I couldn't give it power all the time or the engine would flood from too much fuel so I noticed I had to do it with some intervals for the best result, so it will start fine when the CSV is given voltage but when it's connected to the wires coming from the OVP etc it doesn't get any power.
Also noticed that the ICV is not making any noise either and if you pull the connector from the ICV the RPM's don't change at all which means the Idle Control Valve is not either getting any power and that could explain why the idle with warm engine is 1000-1200 when it should be 700?... :/
Edited by Kameeli, Sat Oct 29, 2016 12:52 pm.
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G3MAW
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With the engine warm, try squeezing one of the breather hoses to or from the ice. If the revs decrease the icv needs freeing up - squirt some WD40 into it after disconnecting the top hose to the icv
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G3MAW
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With the engine warm, try squeezing one of the breather hoses to or from the ice. If the revs decrease the icv needs freeing up - squirt some WD40 into it after disconnecting the top hose to the icv
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Kameeli
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G3MAW
Sat Oct 29, 2016 4:39 pm
With the engine warm, try squeezing one of the breather hoses to or from the ice. If the revs decrease the icv needs freeing up - squirt some WD40 into it after disconnecting the top hose to the icv
hoses weren't soft enough to be squeezed
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G3MAW
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On a hot engine?!!!! Try a kettle full of hot water poured onto the (frozen?)hose.
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Kameeli
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oh and by the way, there is no difference when I take off the OVP relay while the car is running, it still runs exactly the same when there is no ovp relay at all connected so I would still think it has something to do with the ovp but what since I already tried with 2 different ones and both re soldered
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balamb37
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I would say 'definately an OVP fault, sounds like a 'dry joint' inside it that needs re-soldering.
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Kameeli
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well since i never figured out why the csv was getting power i put a button next to the dash which opens the csv when I press it. car starts fine now but today it got another problem. whenever I rev the engine the lights will dim and stereo goes off. or if I put on windscreen wiper/AC lights will also go dim and rpm counter jumps up and down.. car still stays running fine though
Edited by Kameeli, Mon Nov 7, 2016 10:13 pm.
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nathan190e
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alternator?
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optimusprime
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Looking at your economy guage you have one very bad vacuum leak ..The guage should never sit on the right like that , only when on full throttle it sits over there .
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