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| Information wanted on 102.990 | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Wed Apr 5, 2017 9:30 pm (499 Views) | |
| Belgianbikepower | Wed Apr 5, 2017 9:30 pm Post #1 |
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Hi all I'm looking for some very specific information on my 102.990 engine. The one put in the 2.5-16v. I just bought this car and I noticed a serious lack of power. I know the KE is very sensitive for malfunctions so the problem should be there somewhere. I've been searching on the internet to get some more information on the KE used in the 102.990. As far as I can figure out there should be a diagnosemodule on the engine so it should be a KE3. Am I correct? There is a lot of info available on the 102.983 (2.3-16v) engine but almost none for the 102.990. Is there anyone who has the proper manual for this engine? Is it possible to get one by Mercedes-Benz themselves? Now, I've been looking for the cause. I've seen that someone has removed the Lambda (O2 sensor) from the exhaust. Seems obvious to me that the KE is confused and doesn't send the proper current to the plunjer. Am I correct? Next is the trimming resistor. I've been reading for a couple of hours and I just can't figure out what type I've got. Here's a picture: ![]() and this, whats this? ![]() It reads KAT, whats it for exacly? There should be another trimming resistor like this with N ans S on it. I can't find it anywhere on my car... Presuming it's a KE3 there should be a knocking sensor on it? This could explain why there isn't any trimming resistor with N&S. Now the final question: Is it possible to fool the ECU in believing it has no o2 sensor? I believe someone can help me out! Many thanks! kind regards, Cedric ps: sorry for any misspells, I'm Belgian. |
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| JustbeCoz | Thu Apr 6, 2017 11:47 am Post #2 |
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I believe the Kat and Non Kat ECU were slightly different. If you remove the Lambda sensor then you would really want the Non Kat ECU. There is very little extra info on the 2.5-16 as it was mostly given out as supplements to the 2.3-16 manual. I would be inclined to start from very basics and see what the engine is doing regarding fuel mix and look for signs of vacuum leaks, set the Airflowmeter plate correctly, check it's holding fuel pressure when stopped. Change sparkplugs, distributor cap and rotor and also check the OVP and Fuel Pump relay are working ok. A compression test will tell you if the Engine is basically sound as the valve guides and seats can wear and can cause running issues if the Engine top end has not had an overhaul around 100 - 130000 miles. |
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| scherrit | Thu Apr 6, 2017 11:12 pm Post #3 |
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Yeah, start with basics.... maybe get the idle mixture checked- it's only an indication but if that is way out then nothing else is going to be right. New fuel filter, possibly check system and control pressure in the injection system. New air filter. Check for blocked catalyst or exhaust blockage. |
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| JustbeCoz | Fri Apr 7, 2017 6:10 am Post #4 |
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It would also be good to check valve timing as it's not unheard of for these engines to be one tooth out on the chain if the chain has slipped or the camchain removed/changed. Old style earlier tensioners can be problematic. How does the engine start and run at the moment? |
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| Belgianbikepower | Fri Apr 7, 2017 7:22 pm Post #5 |
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Hi Thanks for all your replies. It would indeed be a good to change all the basic components. Just to be shure. The engine starts in 3,2,1 cold. Runs smooth. When warm, restart is oke but when idling, the revs are changing constantly between 800 and 1300 rpm When driving, everything feels very smooth. No jerks or backfires. Its just all to smooth. It feels like I'm missing +50bhp. This weekend I'm having a compression test. Can the diagnose device help me? Thanks |
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| JustbeCoz | Sat Apr 8, 2017 6:23 am Post #6 |
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Make sure the accelerator linkage is contacting the idle switch when released. If the switch is broken or not being operated by a sticky cable or over-adjustment then the idle circuit will not engage. Check engine coolant temperature sensor is ok. At the front of the engine with round black plug and 4 pins. If the engine is getting the wrong temp signal it may complicate matters. With plug disconnected you can check the resistance between each diagonal pair of pins is the same. |
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| Belgianbikepower | Mon Jun 5, 2017 7:37 pm Post #7 |
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Hi all Thanks for the replies! I'm working on the 2.5 16v for a while now. I'm trying to fix all little problems as well. Currently i'm working on putting back the 02 sensor in the Simons Exhaust pipe. Since I bought the car, it was running without lambdacontrol... I've checked the camshaft timing and it's spot on. Valve clearance is a complete mess. All intake valves are over 0.30mm gap when cold. So the next job is to adjust the clearance. I've been looking on the internet for a while and I've found some information but not a complete guide. Someone who can help me how to take the camshafts out and what torque specs all the components need? It's a 2.5 -16v engine. Is there a difference in clearance and/or torque specs? Thanks! |
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| Rav3n | Sat Oct 28, 2017 9:46 pm Post #8 |
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Some of the 2.5-16 came with no o2 sensors. (Like mine). It’s designated a “RUF” motor. Nothing wrong with it it just isn’t as fine tuneable as one with o2 sensor. There’s a million reasons why it won’t idle smoothly but check all of the items above. I do have some specs on a 102.990 motor at work if you still haven’t found anything. The EHA specs are different on the 2.5 as well. The 2.3 supplement manual is readily available and the electrical flow chart is useful but not 100% correct for the 2.5. So before you try put an O2 sensor in, u have to check if it ever had one in the first place. |
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9:38 AM Jul 11