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| Rear windscreen leak; opinions needed | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Wed Jul 5, 2017 5:14 pm (375 Views) | |
| bestie | Wed Jul 5, 2017 5:14 pm Post #1 |
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Newbie
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Hey all, Earlier this year I was getting an increasingly waterlogged boot and based on the previous comments on this forum, I changed the boot lock seal and remasticked the sunroof drains behind the vents, resulting in a big change to the amount of water I'm seeing in there. Irritatingly though I'm still getting water coming in onto the rear arch covers, just a bit, but with rust residue to cause me concern. After chatting to a fellow 190 enthusiast at a breakers yard in Birmingham he suggested this was due to a leak from the windscreen sealant becoming brittle and causing ingress and rust below the rear window. This makes sense with what I have seen when I lift the rear seal a bit of water and rust.... So I've called a local windscreen fitter and got a quote for £70 to remove, reputty and refit the old windscreen and seal. I then called mercedes to get a quote for the seal itself (posts on here suggest it is worthwhile) and was blown away when they told me it now costs £120 quid inc VAT (MA2016700239)! Leaving me with two options: 1) Refit screen with original seal but new putty - £70 2) Refit screen with new seal and putty - £180 So, question is, what experience do people have of reusing the original seal? Having looked at it it seems to be in decent condition bar one little crease which I reckon could be siliconed shut, but I want to see what people think before I take a gamble and end up paying twice for the refit when the original seal fails!! Part of me thinks that given I'm planning on keeping the car for another 5 years, taking the hit on the whole thing now makes sense in the longer term, but I'd like to see what this community of subject matter experts thinks. So please don't hold back! The other question I have is that the windscreen fitter said that when the screen is removed there can sometimes be serious rust behind which needs to be addressed before refitting. I dont have ready access to a garage/off road area where I live so this would be a real issue for me - when I said I would remove the seats and parcel shelf to inspect and address any rust prior to the refit, he said I wouldnt see the problem until the windscreen was removed! So, is this true? Or will I be able to assess the rust levels beforehand? Thanks Richard |
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| optimusprime | Thu Jul 6, 2017 10:50 am Post #2 |
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Richard if the rubber seal thats to be removed, is in good condition ie no splits or cracks . I would have it resealed and fitted back .I used Coma Seak and Seal on my window seal rubbers but i dont know if you will find any for sale ,.The tin i have is a few years old now. Its like clear oil to look at But the other thing i have used is Captain Jacks Creping Crack . [ No it not a sex cream ] You will find this sealer at a good caravan spares shop .You just apply it to the screen let it seap in .It will seal inside of the rubber and glass . CJCC is a white liquid when you put it in the screen rubber seal |
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| optimusprime | Thu Jul 6, 2017 10:52 am Post #3 |
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Richard if the rubber seal thats to be removed, is in good condition ie no splits or cracks . I would have it resealed and fitted back .I used Coma Seak and Seal on my window seal rubbers but i dont know if you will find any for sale ,.The tin i have is a few years old now. Its like clear oil to look at But the other thing i have used is Captain Jacks Creping Crack . [ No it not a sex cream ] You will find this sealer at a good caravan spares shop .You just apply it to the screen let it seap in .It will seal inside of the rubber and glass . CJCC is a white liquid when you put it in the screen rubber seal |
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| Toff190 | Thu Jul 6, 2017 2:29 pm Post #4 |
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190 Mob Member and a Wise Guy.
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You need to remove the rear screen first. Once out check for rust, treat/repair if needed before refitting screen. If your on a budget there's nothing wrong with fitting the old seal as long as it's in good condition. Same applies to rocker cover gasket, sump plug washer etc all can be used again. If you intend to keep the car for many years then do the job properly and fit a new seal. Edited by Toff190, Thu Jul 6, 2017 2:30 pm.
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| amasud | Tue Aug 8, 2017 9:40 pm Post #5 |
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Have you removed the parcel shelf and had a look at the scuttle panels? |
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| martinw190 | Sat Aug 19, 2017 3:18 pm Post #6 |
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This. If you have a look behind the parcel shelf, it will give you a clue as to how much corrosion there is behind the seal. That said, mine looks very clean, but there is still a decent amount of rust at one corner on the outside. At least though if you see loads of rust inside, you'll know you've got a bigger job on your hands. I'm in the same position. I'm booking my car into a bodyshop to have the screen taken out and the corrosion rubbed back and repainted. My preference is to fit a new seal, but if you're after a quick fix, re-using the old one with new sealant will work. If your fitter will do it, you could get him to take the screen out first thing, then come back last thing and refit it. You've then got all day to check round the screen edges, rub it back, use some rust converter, and give it a quick blow over with some paint. Not ideal, but cheaper and will more than likely last for a few years. ![]() |
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| Daliscar | Sat Aug 19, 2017 8:02 pm Post #7 |
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Always On The Ball
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If there is a fair bit of paint loss and rust formation in the lower corners of the rear screen appature when you remove the parcel shelf (also know as hat rack, but who in their right mind would put either parcels or hats 🎩 there) then you have a problem. Without cover or a place to work you would be advised to seek body shop help. If the area looks rust free then you could go ahead and remove the rear screen. Read up on this and follow instructions exactly and with care. It's not Black Magic, it's do-able as a DIY. job. Thoroughly clean and dry the seal and refit with new screen sealer. Any rust inside the screen appature can be rubbed down, treated with Kurust or similar and then painted with Hammerite, obviously keeping the paint within the seal area. Without garage or cover the job could be done easily in a day, weather permitting. Cost is now minimal screen sealer, rust cure, small tin of Hammerite and some thick string. Satisfaction is in having done the job yourself. Worth a go?
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| BrunoSaccofan | Fri Dec 1, 2017 6:40 pm Post #8 |
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Newbie
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If it was my car, I would take the financial hit now and fit a new seal. That's my advise. |
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| optimusprime | Sat Dec 2, 2017 12:11 pm Post #9 |
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Remove all the rust you can,and polish the metal up ,then paint it with metalmorphasis the stuff landrover blog uses to kill the rust and turn it to nutral material . |
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| optimusprime | Sat Dec 2, 2017 12:12 pm Post #10 |
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Part of things
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Remove all the rust you can,and polish the metal up ,then paint it with metalmorphasis the stuff landrover blog uses to kill the rust and turn it to nutral material . |
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3:52 PM Jul 11