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misfire issue's
Topic Started: Sun Nov 12, 2017 7:21 pm (559 Views)
nathan190e
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I think my "was" perfecrly running car got wiff that im after a second car to daily.

Got in it today and after 30 seconds of driving developed a misfire and stalled twice manuovering out a car park. Had to take a day off work tomorrow but have ordered sparks and a fuel filter just as I wanted to do these for piece of mind anyway. will report back tomorrow.

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated as always.
Edited by nathan190e, Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:27 pm.
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nathan190e
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also to note.

It starts fine and then misfires half a minute later.
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Will
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Nathan,

Check the distributor cap and rotor. Could be leads or something else but I’d check those for certain.
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nathan190e
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Thanks will. What's the best way to check the leads
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JustbeCoz
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Dizzy cap condensation.
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mika
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Will
Sun Nov 12, 2017 11:24 pm
Nathan,

Check the distributor cap and rotor. Could be leads or something else but I’d check those for certain.
I had a misfire and engine losing power/cutting out a few months back

Changed the distributor cap and rotor arm solved the problem, also cleaned up the earths too( theres a good thread on here identifying them ). I would try this its not too expensive
Edited by mika, Mon Nov 13, 2017 1:15 pm.
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nathan190e
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dizzy cap condensation it was! thanks all.
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nathan190e
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misfire all sorted but the 30 seconds of cranking on cold mornings is getting rough.

what sensor at the front of the head controls the cold start valve again?

Thanks in advance

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JustbeCoz
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Coolant temperature sensor
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nathan190e
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what one is that again? looks wise that Is I have 3 sensors/senders on my block.
Edited by nathan190e, Tue Nov 14, 2017 10:49 pm.
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nathan190e
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A, four pin black plug?

B, two pin with hose lines?

Or

C, three pin with two combined plug and one single plug (pretty sure this is the fan thermo switch and temp gauge sender)

Edited by nathan190e, Wed Nov 15, 2017 10:39 am.
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Will
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Hi Nathan,

It should be the four pin one. As you say the two/three pin one is for the electromagnetic clutch for the cooling fan, the other one is vacuum one for the ignition module.

You can test the four pin one with a multimeter if you’ve got one? The pins are connected diagonally (iirc they should read similar values for both pairs?)

If you need one I can probably sort you out a spare.

Will
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nathan190e
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Thanks will,

I have a multimeter to hand will get testing after work. hopefully the sensor is broken!
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JustbeCoz
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You can fake a cold engine by using a 10 k resistor ( pennies from maplins ) to bridge diagonally across the 4 way plug. This should show if everything on the cold start injector side is working. Try the resistor in both diagonal positions while trying to start the car as one pair of the 4 is used for another purpose. If you need more info on expected resistance measurements for the sensor you have you can google " bosch ntc sensor " and look at the temperature tables
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nathan190e
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Currently doing the readings now. will report back.

Thanks for the resistor trick. will test that also.
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nathan190e
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Here are the results. done both diagonal ways.

Temp. A. B.
90°c 205. 203.
80°c 274. 268.
70°c. 329. 326.
60°c. 427. 424.
50°c. 479. 475.
40°c. 1000 989.

looking at the chart I'd say this needs replacing... or is this in tolerance?

Thanks all

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nathan190e
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what temp does the cold start kick in?
Edited by nathan190e, Thu Nov 16, 2017 1:28 pm.
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nathan190e
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update..

Checked 1 minute ago. 3.6k ohms. cold engine at 9°c outside.

took the cold start injector off and tested direct from battery, sprays as should. then put injector back on the fuel line and electric plug back on and watched while somebody cranked car... nothing. switch is reading 3.3k while doing this so surely it should be activating cold start injector at this point?

help greatly appreciated as I'm using my work holidays to rectify this problem.

Thanks all
Edited by nathan190e, Thu Nov 16, 2017 11:33 am.
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nathan190e
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to anyone interested it was a poor ground causing the issues. sorted.
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scherrit
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Good work, these electrical things can be really trickily to diagnose.... took me ages to deduce an ignition amp was faulty once, and on another occasion, the wire to a pin on the fuel relay socket in the loom had corroded off... luckily a US forum member had done a good job of his story and some good pics of the same problem.
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nathan190e
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Back again!

When the car gets up to temp now it starts to misfire and has no power setting off. disconnected the lambda sensor and the issue goes away.

new sensor needed or look elsewhere?
Edited by nathan190e, Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:22 pm.
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nathan190e
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just checked the voltage for the o2 sensor and it's 0.4 warm. I believe thats correct
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nathan190e
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what is the best way to test the sensor just on case I have tested wrong?
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JustbeCoz
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Voltage best checked with o2 sensor connected and engine running. ( trap a strand of bare copper wire in the connectors and join them back up to give a contact for the test probes. If working properly the lambda reading should oscillate up and down in the range of 0 to 1v once the engine is up to normal temp )
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nathan190e
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thanks. Iv just done it that way and i never saw it go past 0.4v. if that means anything.
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